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diy turbo master

muddycowboy

muddycowboy

BERR
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randolph oh
planning on installing my DIY TM this weekend along with POT boost fooler what would be the best approach a tuning it in with out hurting some thing.


my bigest question is if i turn the boost up to say 15psi max, and the POT is not turned up high enough to fool it and it trips the SES light, will i have to have the light turned off before continuing or will it turn off on its own.

i guess im not sure on the proper/ best procedure in which to tune in the TM/POT

any tips would be welcome thanks
 
Monarkman said:
15 psi is over kill for a stock program
Click to expand...

I agree... if you can get yours up to 10psi with a stock chip, that's all you'll need.

And the light will turn off on its own next time you shut the truck off. It shouldn't code unless you go for an extended period of time at WOT with 10psi.
 
ok still learning about these motors. all i really wanna gain is to get rid of the surging boost. and last year pulling my 2 horse trailer (5000 gvrw) up a steady hill the truck fell on its face. but that was right after i got it and nothing had been done to it performance wise. i thought my engine and trans were going to melt right off the truck. hey another quick question. i know on my ranger the rearend gear ratio is tagged onto the diff would i find it in a simular spot on this truck?
 
Look at the RPO codes in your glove box... there's a lookup tool in the 6.5 TD Technical Library Or put your VIN into a decoder like the one in the 6.5 TD Technical Library.

Hint, hint... ROFL :D

As for your truck falling on its face, that's normal for a stock PCM. The IAT climbs, so the PCM shuts off the boost, which makes the EGT climb, which makes you overheat, which means...

Your TM will make a difference, but get a chip in that thing... and do the cooling mods as described... a one-TStat system will work fine as long as you have a squeaky-clean rad, a good fan clutch, a genuine ACDelco Tstat, and clean condensers.
 
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With a chip you could have better turbo spool and performance with the vacuum system. And in general a lot better performance and satisfaction using either wastegate actuator.
 
First make sure you have no fuel problems. I recommend an in cab fuel gauge and the FTB mod. These trucks run amazingly well on barely to zero fuel pressure... They run even better with nice flow.
 
well i just put in a 180 therm, and a water pump for a 97 for some higher flow so i was told thinking about the Dmax fan set up but gotta wait for funds. just this past week i installed new larger coolers for engine and trans, the deep trans pan and a new condenser (there fore im broke now). cleaned the radiator really well while it was apart it looked gunked up bad. and im installing gauges and the TM tomorrow night after work. thought about a chip but i really dont have the funds. but the most i haul is the 2 horse trailer and its mostly aluminum w/ about a ton of horses inside.

i think my worst problem on that hill was i couldnt get any speed before i hit it. 35 mph limit with lots of blind curves didnt help much either.
 
What KIND of 180* thermostat did you install? In a single tstat system, that's a critical question... most of us have found that a 195* ACDelco works just fine. Using almost any other tstat is usually problematic, (Sterling and Robertshaw have also been reported good, but Stant, NAPA, Motocraft, etc just aren't right for this application.)

Cleaning the rad is also critical... not the inside, but the OUTside, and between the condensers. It really needs to be pulled out of the truck and laid down to do the job properly. There's a write-up on that in the Tech Library.

Making sure the Fan clutch engages properly is also a really big deal... if the front of it is gunked up, the airflow takes quite a while to make it engage. The coil needs to be clean to work. The kick-in temp can also be 'tuned'... that mod is described in the tech library also.

You have an OBDI, which means you can also do the TCC mod, letting you lock up your Torque Converter Clutch in third when pulling slow on hills... that will also help you keep your truck running cool and pulling hard. A chip should do this automatically.

The above mods cost very little and aren't that hard to do... but make a huge difference in your truck. I encourage you to look through the Technical Library and see what you can do for your truck on the cheap - staying cool while towing isn't about spending lots on one big thing... it's about doing all the little cheap things.
 
ya i have been lurking though the tech library for a little while picking out things here and there to do. thanks for the information too. the Tstat is from SSdiesel.
 
well got the gauges in gotta finish the rest tomorrow along with that fan clutch mod. looked up a few codes as well for the rear axle gears its got 3.73 which is ok i guess rather have 4.10 but those arnt as good for the fuel mileage. one question tho when i looked it up it said this AXLE REAR, 3.73 RATIO (DUP WITH 5 X 1) what does (DUP WITH 5 X 1) mean i also found its got limited slip does it have something to do with that.
 
It's a duplicate code... there are lots of RPO codes that mean the same thing in different applications. I believe the 5x codes are parts recycler codes.

If you could find a list of 5x codes, I bet 5x1 would read (DUP with GT4) - which should be your axle code, right?
 
ok so got all the gauges up and running today didnt get to the turbo master. but the first test drive out. the boost would go up to 12psi max during initial acceleration. but after that nothing until the truck was shut off and restarted. so i wired the waste gate shut and boost readings were: max 13psi, WOT 12psi, acceleration 4-9psi, cuising 1-2 psi. i hope these are good readings if so that what ill set up the TM to run at. other readings were: trans temp-155 cruising, 170 driving hard; EGT 450 cruising, 600 WOT

let me know if any of this sounds bad or good thanks
 
You put a loaded trailer on that thing with the WG wired shut, you'll hit 16 on the first hill you see, and your boost pressures will stay higher than you want. Guaranteed defuel without a boost fooler.

Watch your EGTs. Did you put the probe in post-turbo or pre-turbo?
 
oh ya planning on finishing the TM before towing for sure just wanted to see the boost gauge move a little. EGT probe mounted pre-turbo passenger side just below turbo. right at the little square stamp mark.
 
If you are losing boost with the vacuum system you must have had a problem with it, like a cracked vacuum line is all. When youre really into the pedal the vacuum will suck it shut sort of and still get some vacuum to the actuator but at lower demand or cruising there isnt enough vacuum to move the actuator. Try putting a vacuum hose straight from pump to actuator and see how much boost you get.
 
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