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Diesel select 6.5 injection pumps

D

dieselolds

Well-Known Member
Messages
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Location
Canada
Hey guys.Anyone here ever buy the diesel select brand 6.5 DS4 injection pump from rockauto?If so any good or bad results with those?I was going to buy one here that’s available locally but I figured I’d ask here first.Thanks
 
Thanks for the reply.I’d prefer acdelco as well.It’s also much cheaper than what the diesel select pump is.Locally they want $1500 plus tax on top of it but comes with the 3 yr but I’ve always trusted acdelco more so than anything else.
 
dieselolds said:
I appreciate the reply.Thank you.I wonder who remans the pumps for acdelco though?
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I called AC Delco because posters here warned that the warranty on AC Delco parts would not be honored if purchased through RockAuto. This was confirmed as RockAuto is a third party vendor and AC Delco cannot verify where they get their parts from. I did not ask who remans the pumps for AC Delco, but assumed it was done to their standards.

At the time the pump was $794 with free shipping and no core charge. They have since increased that to $924 the last time I looked.
 
dieselolds said:
Amazon is definitely the best place to buy it not to mention it’s about $700 cheaper if I go that route.
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This is THE most important part on the engine. Be frugal NOT CHEAP!!! IMO I wouldn't even be frugal, but, my budget didn't allow what was needed. I suffered badly because of shitty wore out used and shit rebuilt IP's. It was too late for my engine when I finally got a decent pump.

Hard starting from a worn head and rotor will eat being cheap savings in starters. It's a fun time consuming job to swap out defective pumps. It also has risk of loosing say a 1/4" worm clamp in the open head intake ports. You understand the low bidder isn't checking for a worn head and rotor. Buy on a credit card so when they go FU on warranty you have some way to get a refund.

Pump screws up and say goes runaway over redline - minimum is bent valves. I have an entire thread dedicated to a bad governor and then the difficulty in finding a good engine to put back in... well I scrapped the pickup over this blown engine. Wasn't worth enough to buy a new longblock.

Just saying in a world of repainted worn out garbage: you need to find a reputable vendor for an IP. Preferably local so if it takes your engine out you can know where they live in case of any trouble with "warranty" covering damage caused by the part failing. Just saying.
 
WarWagon said:
This is THE most important part on the engine. Be frugal NOT CHEAP!!! IMO I wouldn't even be frugal, but, my budget didn't allow what was needed. I suffered badly because of shitty wore out used and shit rebuilt IP's. It was too late for my engine when I finally got a decent pump.

Hard starting from a worn head and rotor will eat being cheap savings in starters. It's a fun time consuming job to swap out defective pumps. It also has risk of loosing say a 1/4" worm clamp in the open head intake ports. You understand the low bidder isn't checking for a worn head and rotor. Buy on a credit card so when they go FU on warranty you have some way to get a refund.

Pump screws up and say goes runaway over redline - minimum is bent valves. I have an entire thread dedicated to a bad governor and then the difficulty in finding a good engine to put back in... well I scrapped the pickup over this blown engine. Wasn't worth enough to buy a new longblock.

Just saying in a world of repainted worn out garbage: you need to find a reputable vendor for an IP. Preferably local so if it takes your engine out you can know where they live in case of any trouble with "warranty" covering damage caused by the part failing. Just saying.
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Local guy will not have the balance sheet to take care of your warranty damage claims. In other words, good luck collecting. As a result, they are more inclined to scrimp on parts.

In contrast, a Corporate like AC Delco has a balance sheet to cover warranty damage claims. As a result, they are inclined to make sure the product is right to avoid such claims.

So choose your poison. My AC Delco IP is working just fine, as is the IP I got from Conestoga about 5 years back.
 
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WarWagon said:
This is THE most important part on the engine. Be frugal NOT CHEAP!!! IMO I wouldn't even be frugal, but, my budget didn't allow what was needed. I suffered badly because of shitty wore out used and shit rebuilt IP's. It was too late for my engine when I finally got a decent pump.

Hard starting from a worn head and rotor will eat being cheap savings in starters. It's a fun time consuming job to swap out defective pumps. It also has risk of loosing say a 1/4" worm clamp in the open head intake ports. You understand the low bidder isn't checking for a worn head and rotor. Buy on a credit card so when they go FU on warranty you have some way to get a refund.

Pump screws up and say goes runaway over redline - minimum is bent valves. I have an entire thread dedicated to a bad governor and then the difficulty in finding a good engine to put back in... well I scrapped the pickup over this blown engine. Wasn't worth enough to buy a new longblock.

Just saying in a world of repainted worn out garbage: you need to find a reputable vendor for an IP. Preferably local so if it takes your engine out you can know where they live in case of any trouble with "warranty" covering damage caused by the part failing. Just saying.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply guys.Napa was the place locally that can get the diesel select brand pump with the 3yr coverage so if there is a problem they will take care of it with no questions asked.I’ve been dealing with the same store the past 25yrs and they are good to deal with.It’s just $700-$800 more than the acdelco pump found on Amazon.

I was never cheap when it comes down to this stuff.I’ve spent a lot of money in these engines and fuel systems for as long as I can remember.In 2014 I bought a new pump from badger that still runs good.No problems with it but it would be nice just to have a spare backup if it’s ever needed.

There’s definitely a lot of reman junk out there no doubt about it.That’s the sad part of it.
 
Sometimes one just needs a reminder that they are looking in the wrong places that have earned a reputation for Cheap.

I carried a spare alternator for years in case I ever needed it. I don't bother anymore as when I needed the spare it was DOA. Just dead weight... Moral of the story is to test the spare.
 
Hey Marty.I haven’t purchased any pumps as of yet.My current pump from badger purchased in 2014 works perfectly.It’s probably good advice from warwagon.If I did buy a spare pump it would probably be useless if I left it not being used for a year or two.
 
dieselolds said:
Hey Marty.I haven’t purchased any pumps as of yet.My current pump from badger purchased in 2014 works perfectly.It’s probably good advice from warwagon.If I did buy a spare pump it would probably be useless if I left it not being used for a year or two.
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I think a reman pump would be okay if left setting with the test fluid that they are shipped with.
From what I now understand is that after diesel fuelnis introduced into the IP is when bad things can happen.
The shop that I sent my injectors over to to get tested, He claims to have the equipment for testing the electronic pumps but He does not want to have to get into his storage shed and root out the containers that the test stand is contained within.
I also tried to see if the co. That Quadstar tuning uses to reman these pumps could run it through their equipment. He said the last pump He sent to them, just to get tested, they charged $800.00.
Just not worth it at this time to accomplish that.
Maybe someone with more knowledge on the subject can kick in and let You know if a new reman pump will last indefinitely if it has not had fuel run through it.
 
The seals (like any that sit and dry out) have problems. Pump needs to be FULL of oil (test fluid I would guess is ok, better than modern fuel for sure. Has to be ran through the pump (out injector ports).
Then spray with cosmoline, store in vacuum container. Best diy container I’ve seenIs the steel ammo can. Drill 2 holes, one for small vacuum gauge the other you add a schrader valve. Hook up your ac vacuum pump and bring it all the way down. Store on the shelf and check once or twice a year by glancing at the vacuum gauge.
 
Will L. said:
The seals (like any that sit and dry out) have problems. Pump needs to be FULL of oil (test fluid I would guess is ok, better than modern fuel for sure. Has to be ran through the pump (out injector ports).
Then spray with cosmoline, store in vacuum container. Best diy container I’ve seenIs the steel ammo can. Drill 2 holes, one for small vacuum gauge the other you add a schrader valve. Hook up your ac vacuum pump and bring it all the way down. Store on the shelf and check once or twice a year by glancing at the vacuum gauge.
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How about if a person adds some of those bags of silica for absorbing any residual humidity that might be left in the can ?
I think that My remanned injection pump might not be so good if I dont use it within a year or two.
Seems I could get no other type of fluid pumped through it and so it sits loaded with diesel fuel.
I could probably change out the pumps every year and keep the fuel freshened up, but, do I want to go through that much work every year ? 🤷‍♂️
 
I wouldn't think that leaving the diesel in the IP would hurt anything over time as long as you can vacuum seal it in something. maybe wrapping the pointy areas with some cling wrap and stuffing it into one of those food vacuum sealer bag contraptions sucking all the air out while sealing the bag at the same time.
 
Believe what ya want. Just find out why no one leaves Modern alcohol containing fuels in small engines like chainsaws. Find out why no one stores a high dollar car with fuel in it anymore.

Diesel used to be the king of lasting forever. If I go find a sealed barrel of diesel oil that has been there since 1980- i will run it in a heartbeat. Why? Because in a steel sealed container the lighter chain liquids can’t evaporate away, so the flash point will still be the same. But the alcohols separate while in the modern diesel. And it has moisture trapped in it. Ethanol & methanol absorb and hold water until it becomes saturated or until there is localized evaporation. The alcohols move and the water stays put. You can see it in aluminum really easy because it pits the metal.
The alcohol itself will separate from the oil and coalesce together. Now guess what you have- dissimilar ph between the oil and the alcohol (which is in the water family). So now at that line where the two merge if you have it sealed where the alcohol can’t get out. You've seen dissimilar metals, right? Same principle. The weakest material in contact gives up it’s ions. In this case it becomes aluminum, so yeah more pitting.
The greater the temperature swings it goes through the more it speeds the process.

So if you find an ip full of high sulfur diesel oil and no bs mixed in- heck yeah, just wrap it up and save it.
 
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