KeepHerRolling
New Member
I bought the truck a little over a year ago off of ebay. (Mistake #1) Heading home from the owner/DEALER the service engine light came on. The truck was not as described to say the least. After getting it out on the highway the Service engine light came on and it seemed to stumble every once in a while.
When doing the “paper clip test” it gave code 78 turbo wastegate. I replaced the wastegate solenoid and all vacuum lines. I tried to use it to take the family and the boat to the river and it ended up dying mid trip. I let it cool, it would crank. I drove it back home as soon as I could. I cleaned grounds and replaced where necessary.
I purchased “remote mount FSD with heat sync” from SS Diesel that mounts on the intake. (Mistake #2) The wires would not reach the remote mount as indicated and three had to be extended to mount. This seemed to fix the dying but not all of the stumbling. I checked the lift pump. Replaced the lift pump and OPS. The ops was not functioning. It took three tries at AutoZone before buying one at Advance that worked. Later, I intermittently had SEL come on indicating EGR circuit fault. Had problems with another vacuum solenoid. I kept having trouble with the SES light. All three solenoids seemed to work fine. I would remove the vacuum line at the map sensor and vacuum was fine.
I eventually checked the vacuum by removing the line from the EGR valve. I was loosing vacuum through the map sensor mounted on the firewall. I replaced the map sensor and eventually had to replace the third solenoid. It seemed I had finally taken care of most of the problems that the truck had when I bought it over a year ago. I introduced bio to the truck and drove it around town for about 3 weeks. I slowly worked it up to b50 and all was fine.
It seemed to finally be a dependable truck with no issues and ran great off of the b50. This led me up to about 2 weeks ago when we decided to take the truck for a camping trip instead of the suburban. We took the 1.5 hour trip to are camping destination pulling a boat. The truck handled the trip great with no service engine light.
It was the first time in almost a year since buying the truck that no check engine lights came on for such a long drive. I apparently knocked on the wrong type of wood after bragging about it to my wife. After taking my son to the doctor to get a fishing hook removed from his eyebrow, the truck would not start. It would crank up and run but die immediately.
It seemed like a fuel issue. After having to tow my truck back to the campground I replaced fuel filter, fuel lines from filter to IP, and lines for filter housing down to the steel fuel lines. The truck cranked and ran idling for about 20 minutes.
All seemed well. I decided to drive it around the campground to the bath house to clean up. It died. I could crank it up and it would run sometimes. When it cranked if you depressed the accelerator it would die.
Most of the time it would crank and die immediately. I did the paperclip test and found code 19, Crank position sensor and a couple of cylinder imbalance codes I think it was 91 and 98. I could not remove the Crank position sensor in the campground and had to haul the truck and boat back home.
The flange on the CPS broke off and the wires eventually pulled out. I tried running screws of different lengths into the wire hole and pulling it out. Pieces of it would come out but not the sensor. I ended up removing the alternator and power steering pump,drilling into it, tapping it, inserting a bolt, and with and unbelievable amount of force pulling it out. The end of the CPS was busted by the time I got it out.
It did not appear as though the drill and/or the bolt went all the way through the CPS. It was very close to the end of it though. I replaced the CPS with one from AZ. I disconnected the batteries to clear the codes in the ecm. I checked the codes to make sure they had cleared and got code 12.
After cranking I got the same results as before, code 19 and it would start but not run. If it started it would idle but die when trying to accelerate. I tried to crank it without the CPS plugged in and it cranked and ran fine in the limp mode. I checked fuel pressure from T-handle with a pressure gauge. It stayed at 8-10 psi while running.
I cracked fuel injectors to see if oozing fuel. All seemed fine. I checked fuel coming from filter at the inlet line at the top of the IP. It came out fine. I tried another CPS thinking I had got another bad part, same results. I tried a third CPS from advance, same results. It would crank sometimes and idle fine.
If you depressed the accelerator it would die. Most of the time it would crank and die immediately. When I unhooked the CPS it would crank eventually and run fine in limp mode. I have drained all fuel from tank, lines, and filter housing and put diesel(no bio), 2cycle engine oil and additive into it. Removed all air from lines and filter housing. I cracked the injectors again, no fuel.
I tried checking the fuel shut off valve to see if it was clicking. I checked the voltage across the plug going to fuel shut off valve. When the key was on, it was only 0.8 volts. I tried to check to see if the valve was functioning properly by hooking up a 12 volt source to it, it seemed to click fine. I removed the optic sensor filter. There was no fuel or voltage to the fuel shutoff solenoid. I cleaned all grounds again and tried looking for any trouble with wires. I had checked the fuse box previously.
I checked it again and the fuse for the fuel solenoid was shot. It had to of shot after replacing the fuel. I don’t know if the fuse blowing is related to the situation or not. Now the truck cranks and dies again. If I remove the CPS wires it cranks eventually and runs fine in limp mode. I tried removing the wires to the optic sensor and replaced the CPS wires. It still cranks and runs fine in limp mode. What would allow the vehicle to run in limp mode and not run if both sensors are hooked up.
I had the vin checked and it shows the IP replaced at 96,000 miles. She has 123,000 on her now. I have unplugged the remote mount FSD/PMD and plugged it back into the original on the IP. She does the exact same thing.
I would think that it would react differently if the PMD was bad. The old PMD still worked but cut out when it got hot. Could it be problems with wires to the PMD? I do have a 12V potential difference to the pink that also feeds the Fuel shut off solenoid. Any other way to test these? IP? I hope not. I need help finding the problem because I can't afford the shotgun approach in replacing parts.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
TD edit, paragraphs are your/our friends, breaks between thoughts are most appreciated
When doing the “paper clip test” it gave code 78 turbo wastegate. I replaced the wastegate solenoid and all vacuum lines. I tried to use it to take the family and the boat to the river and it ended up dying mid trip. I let it cool, it would crank. I drove it back home as soon as I could. I cleaned grounds and replaced where necessary.
I purchased “remote mount FSD with heat sync” from SS Diesel that mounts on the intake. (Mistake #2) The wires would not reach the remote mount as indicated and three had to be extended to mount. This seemed to fix the dying but not all of the stumbling. I checked the lift pump. Replaced the lift pump and OPS. The ops was not functioning. It took three tries at AutoZone before buying one at Advance that worked. Later, I intermittently had SEL come on indicating EGR circuit fault. Had problems with another vacuum solenoid. I kept having trouble with the SES light. All three solenoids seemed to work fine. I would remove the vacuum line at the map sensor and vacuum was fine.
I eventually checked the vacuum by removing the line from the EGR valve. I was loosing vacuum through the map sensor mounted on the firewall. I replaced the map sensor and eventually had to replace the third solenoid. It seemed I had finally taken care of most of the problems that the truck had when I bought it over a year ago. I introduced bio to the truck and drove it around town for about 3 weeks. I slowly worked it up to b50 and all was fine.
It seemed to finally be a dependable truck with no issues and ran great off of the b50. This led me up to about 2 weeks ago when we decided to take the truck for a camping trip instead of the suburban. We took the 1.5 hour trip to are camping destination pulling a boat. The truck handled the trip great with no service engine light.
It was the first time in almost a year since buying the truck that no check engine lights came on for such a long drive. I apparently knocked on the wrong type of wood after bragging about it to my wife. After taking my son to the doctor to get a fishing hook removed from his eyebrow, the truck would not start. It would crank up and run but die immediately.
It seemed like a fuel issue. After having to tow my truck back to the campground I replaced fuel filter, fuel lines from filter to IP, and lines for filter housing down to the steel fuel lines. The truck cranked and ran idling for about 20 minutes.
All seemed well. I decided to drive it around the campground to the bath house to clean up. It died. I could crank it up and it would run sometimes. When it cranked if you depressed the accelerator it would die.
Most of the time it would crank and die immediately. I did the paperclip test and found code 19, Crank position sensor and a couple of cylinder imbalance codes I think it was 91 and 98. I could not remove the Crank position sensor in the campground and had to haul the truck and boat back home.
The flange on the CPS broke off and the wires eventually pulled out. I tried running screws of different lengths into the wire hole and pulling it out. Pieces of it would come out but not the sensor. I ended up removing the alternator and power steering pump,drilling into it, tapping it, inserting a bolt, and with and unbelievable amount of force pulling it out. The end of the CPS was busted by the time I got it out.
It did not appear as though the drill and/or the bolt went all the way through the CPS. It was very close to the end of it though. I replaced the CPS with one from AZ. I disconnected the batteries to clear the codes in the ecm. I checked the codes to make sure they had cleared and got code 12.
After cranking I got the same results as before, code 19 and it would start but not run. If it started it would idle but die when trying to accelerate. I tried to crank it without the CPS plugged in and it cranked and ran fine in the limp mode. I checked fuel pressure from T-handle with a pressure gauge. It stayed at 8-10 psi while running.
I cracked fuel injectors to see if oozing fuel. All seemed fine. I checked fuel coming from filter at the inlet line at the top of the IP. It came out fine. I tried another CPS thinking I had got another bad part, same results. I tried a third CPS from advance, same results. It would crank sometimes and idle fine.
If you depressed the accelerator it would die. Most of the time it would crank and die immediately. When I unhooked the CPS it would crank eventually and run fine in limp mode. I have drained all fuel from tank, lines, and filter housing and put diesel(no bio), 2cycle engine oil and additive into it. Removed all air from lines and filter housing. I cracked the injectors again, no fuel.
I tried checking the fuel shut off valve to see if it was clicking. I checked the voltage across the plug going to fuel shut off valve. When the key was on, it was only 0.8 volts. I tried to check to see if the valve was functioning properly by hooking up a 12 volt source to it, it seemed to click fine. I removed the optic sensor filter. There was no fuel or voltage to the fuel shutoff solenoid. I cleaned all grounds again and tried looking for any trouble with wires. I had checked the fuse box previously.
I checked it again and the fuse for the fuel solenoid was shot. It had to of shot after replacing the fuel. I don’t know if the fuse blowing is related to the situation or not. Now the truck cranks and dies again. If I remove the CPS wires it cranks eventually and runs fine in limp mode. I tried removing the wires to the optic sensor and replaced the CPS wires. It still cranks and runs fine in limp mode. What would allow the vehicle to run in limp mode and not run if both sensors are hooked up.
I had the vin checked and it shows the IP replaced at 96,000 miles. She has 123,000 on her now. I have unplugged the remote mount FSD/PMD and plugged it back into the original on the IP. She does the exact same thing.
I would think that it would react differently if the PMD was bad. The old PMD still worked but cut out when it got hot. Could it be problems with wires to the PMD? I do have a 12V potential difference to the pink that also feeds the Fuel shut off solenoid. Any other way to test these? IP? I hope not. I need help finding the problem because I can't afford the shotgun approach in replacing parts.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
TD edit, paragraphs are your/our friends, breaks between thoughts are most appreciated
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