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DaHoooley, back from the dead as a 6.2 truck. The Phoenix rises

Missy Good Wench

Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
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Location
Newberg Oregon
This thread will take off where the old thread stopped.

The DaHoooley will live again as a DS4 electronic injected 6.2 truck :D

Out with the old ya know.

Here is the status at present.

The 1985 6.2 Block is all done and I will pick it up at the shop first of the week.

The little beast came through the decking great, both sides cleaned at .012" US

Looks like the Piston to bore clearance will be a tad looser than I would have liked, but the new HMMWV pistons are whats in hand so they are going in.

Have most of the new stuff needed to get the beast up and going with the exception of the heads.

Will order the heads soon.

My intent is to use this thread as a 6.5 to 6.2 conversion writeup.

I will post piccy's and other stuff along the way as it happens.


MISSY
 
OK hit the first snag this morning.

I have only one oil pan that will fit the 6.2 with a two piece rear main.

My pan is the early one for the Older trucks with straight axles up front

This pan will not allow for the front differential clearance needed.

Anone out there with an early IFS truck pan that had the 6.2 with a two piece rear main ????

HELP

Missy
 
According to my electronic parts catalog, 1988-1991 C & J code 6.2s. The GM P/N for the pan is 23501614 if that helps at all.
 
Can you get it from GM or LMC ? That is an interesting thing to know. So what years have a two piece Rear main seal and and what does the 6.5 have ? Why won't the 6.5TD pan work ?
 
82 to early 91 6.2 has the two piece rear main.

The late 91 into 92 and through 93 and later 6.2 used the 599 Block and the one piece rear main seal.

ALL 6.5 engines have the one piece rear main seal..

The pan is nearly identical except the area that goes over the rear main cap where the little rubber strap goes to seal the pan.

The 6.5 pan has been used on the early 6.2 by bending the rear flange a little and siliconing the snot out of the area.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO not this girl.

I found a place on line that carries a OEM quality replacement pan. Was $130 shipped.

I can live with the cost of a pan before I will live with a damned leak.

Going to do this sucker right no matter what.

Having a couple extra Thou of clearance on the pistons is fine, but scabbing an oil pan up is not my idea of the way to fly.

I was not supprised though that neither LMC Nor GM had these available.

Went here. http://www.familycar.com/autoparts/chevy/k20_suburban/oil_pan.html

What sold me was the actual picture of the real deal and not just a stock PHOTO.

Hope it does not take 4 years to get here.


Missy
 
I may want to buy that oil pan now for future use while it can be gotten. this stuff is drying up. I agree. I would not want to bend a sealing flange and I HATE silicone. Too many failed motors that lost oil pressure due to clogged screens full of snot have I seen. If it came down to no other choice I think I'd rather gamble on using the 6.2 pan and modifying the sump. I trust my welding ability more than silicone snot balls.
 
My 85 6.2 with the van pan fit my 92 4x4 truck . The drain plug is at a different spot though.
 
Simple answer.. NO

Complex answer. Absolutely not

The whole rear end of the engine was redesigned to accept a one piece seal that looks similar to the seal thats in the timing cover. Its about 5 inches in diameter and presses into the bore in the rear of the block.

The cranks were redesigned too to accomodate this new seal.

Its not a bad idea, I just question the real need for the change.

The addition of the neoprene seal instead of the felt or rope seal used in the early 6.2 engines would have been plenty to fix an real worries of leaks.

The late 6.2 has the same crank and block as the 6.5.
No 6.5 production came with a two piece rear main

The pan was redesigned for the 88 model year and this was basically a change in the shape of the sump to provide clearance for the front IFS differential housing.

The use of the angled/horizontal oil filter came about then too..

The changes in the pan were from 88-91 on the 6.2 and these pans can be used in all C and K trucks of earlier production.

The 92-93 6.2 engines were the same as the 6.5 and had the one piece rear main and the pans are interchangable with the 6.5.

Now the 6.2 used in the GMT400 trucks came with the serp belt drive.
The classic trucks (Burbs,Blazer, Jimmies and crew cabs all retained the old V belt systems.

The serp drive was never installed on the older rigs.

This can be done using parts from any of the later 6.2 or 6.5 engines as the stuff all bolts on.

Not sure why GM did not do that. Probably too costly to retool the assembly line at that point ????????????????

Most all of the late stuff found on a 6.5 from a GMT400 will go right into the Classic truck and work fine.

Hope this stuff is of some use.

Missy
 
OH BTW

As far as the silicone goooooooooooooooop goes. The use of the stuff in a proper manner is fine.

Its when some fool goes way overboard with it is there any issues.

I use it exclusively on the Valve covers. The 6.2/6.5 covers will leak like hell with gaskets.

The Felpro pan gaskets are great. A one piece unit that encompasses the rails and the front end on the timing cover and then the rubber piece over the main saddle.

I was recently told that FORD offers a silicone for DIESELS. Its gray and does not ever tototally harden.

Its supposed to be the CATS A$$ for assembling engines.

I have always used the Orange Hi temp stuff from NAPA.

I also use the silicone on both sides of the pan gasket as well as the other gaskets. (sparingly) as this keeps them leak free and they will come apart easier later if need be.

Just some thoughts.

Missy
 
As soon as the Block for my build is home and on the stand, I will snap some pix of the rear main area and point out the differences.

I will try and make note along the way of the other subtle differences when doing a 6.5 to an earlier 6.2 swap.


Missy
 
An engine with the late pan will fit in Both trucks
An engine with the early pan (no angled area on the LH front of the sump and the LH front corner drain plug) will not work in the later IFS trucks

When the IFS trucks came out, the pan was changed and became the standard for all the trucks.

If your 90 has the Drain plug in the LH front corner of the pan (sump is a near rectangle) it will not work in an IFS truck.

The only reason they changed this stuff was to provide clearance around the IFS differential carrier assembly.

If it was imperative, the old style pan could be sectioned and a piece welded in on the LH corner of the sump and the drain plug moved to the rear of the LH side of the sump.

Just easier to use what fits right.

Missy
 
UPDATE
Well the little 6.2 block is back home and on the stand.

Did not have much time yesterday to fool with it though. Stuffed the cam in for a trial fit.. "SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET" spins lovely.

Need to get the block off the stand again and install the rear cam plug and the oil galley plugs before I get too far into this thing.

Also want to install the front oil galley soft plugs too.

As soon as thats done its time to get the crank in and rock and roll.

Later troops

Hopefully the new pan will be here next week.

Missy


Missy
 
For 130$ I may order one of those pans just for stock. That looks like something that could dissapear due to only being used a few years.
 
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