Acesneights1
New Member
That is funny. I never thought about that but that is why my old 2000 had such ridicoulous Oil pressure vs my 95 Tahoe. Duhh...
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DaHoooley, back from the dead as a 6.2 truck. The Phoenix rises
- Thread starter Missy Good Wench
- Start date
The closer you look at one of these the more likely it can wind up in the scrap pile...
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
Well sort of.
One needs to make sure that the main webs are not cracked, and if they are that the cracks are not below the depth of the bolt hole and are inserted to stop the thing from progressing.
The number 8 cylinder needs to be checked and the head bolt holes need to be checked for cracks that go from the holes to the outside/inside of the engine.
The other area, is the decks for errosion at the fire rings on cyl's 1 & 2
These are the only areas that I am aware of that have ever been of concern.
So far I have put the EVIL EYE all over this block. I have cleaned and scrutinized every inch of the beast.
I dont want any more stinking supprises.:nonod:
I will install a set of Clearwater heads so I have NEW IRON on top.
This should be a great little engine.
Never know though, Sucker could toss a crank right out of the gate ya know
:hihi:
Missy
Going to keep an eye on everything as it goes back into the engine :thumbsup:
One needs to make sure that the main webs are not cracked, and if they are that the cracks are not below the depth of the bolt hole and are inserted to stop the thing from progressing.
The number 8 cylinder needs to be checked and the head bolt holes need to be checked for cracks that go from the holes to the outside/inside of the engine.
The other area, is the decks for errosion at the fire rings on cyl's 1 & 2
These are the only areas that I am aware of that have ever been of concern.
So far I have put the EVIL EYE all over this block. I have cleaned and scrutinized every inch of the beast.
I dont want any more stinking supprises.:nonod:
I will install a set of Clearwater heads so I have NEW IRON on top.
This should be a great little engine.
Never know though, Sucker could toss a crank right out of the gate ya know
:hihi:Missy
Going to keep an eye on everything as it goes back into the engine :thumbsup:
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
For the piccy
HOUNDS
HOUNDS
Snapped some pix this morning before I headed to the gun shop.
Not much to look at yet but here it is.
Damn, this thing is gonna look real good all painted with a fresh coat of CAT YELLOW
Missy :thumbsup:
Not much to look at yet but here it is.
Damn, this thing is gonna look real good all painted with a fresh coat of CAT YELLOW
Missy :thumbsup:
Attachments
buddy
Active Member
Thanks for the pics! I love rebuild threads like this, and hope to be into one myself with my own "tweaks" to the setup.
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
Myself, I would have been quite happy to be looking at the last rebuild pix and thinking, "Sure glad thats done"
I hate having a rig down that is one of the daily drivers or a backup
With winter fast approaching, I dont know If I will be able to get this beast back together.
Once the weather closes in here, its gets just damned sloppy outside.
Missy
I hate having a rig down that is one of the daily drivers or a backup
With winter fast approaching, I dont know If I will be able to get this beast back together.
Once the weather closes in here, its gets just damned sloppy outside.
Missy
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
The weather here is fairly nice right now. Cool crisp nights in the high 30's to mid 40's and daytime highs in the 60's.
Not too wet yet, had a few systems comen through but so far not too bad.
I just wish I had a set of heads sitting on the bench for this engine. Today I have a bit of work to do on the big rig. The big beast makes the living so it has to be kept in top shape.
With 600K miles on it now, I pay attention to its every little nuance.
Todays repairs are inside the dump bed and do not represent any real issues.
Just need to replace a section of the "W" Pan that hold the HDPE bed liner in place under the rail tracks in the bed.
**For you folks not familiar with dump trucks, this is a transfer truck and has two little tracks in the floor of the truck bed to allow the trailer box to roll in and lock inside the truck. ****
The HDPE (High density polyethylene) liner sheets must be held in place and the "W" pan is a 3/16 thick formed aluminum piece that looks sort of like a "W" and goes under the track on each side to hold the sheets in place.
The HDPE allows material to slide out easier and to keep the floors of the aluminum dump beds from wearing out.
The sheets last about 6-8 years depending on the amount of use they get.
Anyway as the "W" pans wear the "WINGS" or edges will weaken some and start to fold up due to material slidimg down the curved sides of the tub and lifting the edges.
Once this happens the rear box can eventually catch on an edge and possibly hang up or rip
the flange on the pan.
The rear box is rolled in with a hydraulically driven heavy mill chain on top of the tailer frame.
There is a large "peg" on the chain that pushes on the back of the rear tub into the truck.
Actually its a pull but its from the rear.
Anyway, doing this sort of repair in the nasty weather just SUX.
The bolts that hold the track down to the floor of the front tub are hardened flush type allen heads and will likely be a beotch to get the nuts off of.
Usually the nuts need to be ground off or at least one side knocked off to get them to come loose.
They are, at least easy to get to.
Shoud not take more than a couple hours to get this done, maybe if all goes well even less.
The original pans were steel, then I got a bright idea and decided to get a set made out of marine grade 5086H16 aluminum.
This was a great weight saver but the alloy has not been all that great as far as longevity.
Not worth the extra $$$$ cost of the stuff.
I have one section of alloy pan left and we will install that today. It takes four 8 foot sections. (box is 16 feet long)
Have a complete set of new steel pans here too that I changed the design on some but, will save these for a year or so in the future when the plastic center sheet will need replacing.]
Come summer, I need to replace the sheet in the trailer tub as its pretty well shot.
Its amazing how much rock can slide over this stuff and the stuff holds up to it.
I do mostly round river products and very little crushed materials.
Years ago, when I was hauling for hire to the pits, the truck hauled everything from sand right up through 6" crush and some of that larger stuff is a tad tough on the plastic.
The little pea rock and 3/4 round bothers little.
6 years now on the front liners and 8 on the rear one so not too bad. Beats the Hell out of having to refloor the aluminum tubs.
The alloy is nice in that you never have to paint it. These were originally Mirror pollished when new and still look fairly nice when clean.
Hate dumping rock all over a new paint job, so I got aluminum tubs on this truck.
Enough on trucks. If I think about it, I will snap a piccy or two of the stuff today.
Missy
Not too wet yet, had a few systems comen through but so far not too bad.
I just wish I had a set of heads sitting on the bench for this engine. Today I have a bit of work to do on the big rig. The big beast makes the living so it has to be kept in top shape.
With 600K miles on it now, I pay attention to its every little nuance.
Todays repairs are inside the dump bed and do not represent any real issues.
Just need to replace a section of the "W" Pan that hold the HDPE bed liner in place under the rail tracks in the bed.
**For you folks not familiar with dump trucks, this is a transfer truck and has two little tracks in the floor of the truck bed to allow the trailer box to roll in and lock inside the truck. ****
The HDPE (High density polyethylene) liner sheets must be held in place and the "W" pan is a 3/16 thick formed aluminum piece that looks sort of like a "W" and goes under the track on each side to hold the sheets in place.
The HDPE allows material to slide out easier and to keep the floors of the aluminum dump beds from wearing out.
The sheets last about 6-8 years depending on the amount of use they get.
Anyway as the "W" pans wear the "WINGS" or edges will weaken some and start to fold up due to material slidimg down the curved sides of the tub and lifting the edges.
Once this happens the rear box can eventually catch on an edge and possibly hang up or rip
the flange on the pan.
The rear box is rolled in with a hydraulically driven heavy mill chain on top of the tailer frame.
There is a large "peg" on the chain that pushes on the back of the rear tub into the truck.
Actually its a pull but its from the rear.
Anyway, doing this sort of repair in the nasty weather just SUX.
The bolts that hold the track down to the floor of the front tub are hardened flush type allen heads and will likely be a beotch to get the nuts off of.
Usually the nuts need to be ground off or at least one side knocked off to get them to come loose.
They are, at least easy to get to.
Shoud not take more than a couple hours to get this done, maybe if all goes well even less.
The original pans were steel, then I got a bright idea and decided to get a set made out of marine grade 5086H16 aluminum.
This was a great weight saver but the alloy has not been all that great as far as longevity.
Not worth the extra $$$$ cost of the stuff.
I have one section of alloy pan left and we will install that today. It takes four 8 foot sections. (box is 16 feet long)
Have a complete set of new steel pans here too that I changed the design on some but, will save these for a year or so in the future when the plastic center sheet will need replacing.]
Come summer, I need to replace the sheet in the trailer tub as its pretty well shot.
Its amazing how much rock can slide over this stuff and the stuff holds up to it.
I do mostly round river products and very little crushed materials.
Years ago, when I was hauling for hire to the pits, the truck hauled everything from sand right up through 6" crush and some of that larger stuff is a tad tough on the plastic.
The little pea rock and 3/4 round bothers little.
6 years now on the front liners and 8 on the rear one so not too bad. Beats the Hell out of having to refloor the aluminum tubs.
The alloy is nice in that you never have to paint it. These were originally Mirror pollished when new and still look fairly nice when clean.
Hate dumping rock all over a new paint job, so I got aluminum tubs on this truck.
Enough on trucks. If I think about it, I will snap a piccy or two of the stuff today.
Missy
Last edited:
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
Got the truck stuff all done by about 10 AM and tools put away.
OOOOOOOOOOOOOK
Tomorrow is gonna be 6.2 day and with any real luck, maybe I can make some good headway on that little beast.
It does not take too long to stuff a short block together so with any luck, maybe I can get that done tomorrow.
Sundays can be a tad ZOOOOOY around my house so who knows.
Biggy though is that the big rig is ready for the road on Monday morning.
MGW
OOOOOOOOOOOOOK
Tomorrow is gonna be 6.2 day and with any real luck, maybe I can make some good headway on that little beast.
It does not take too long to stuff a short block together so with any luck, maybe I can get that done tomorrow.
Sundays can be a tad ZOOOOOY around my house so who knows.
Biggy though is that the big rig is ready for the road on Monday morning.
MGW
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
UPDATE
Got started on the assembly yesterday.
The cam and crank are all in an buttoned up. Mains and rods are all checked.
Piston clearance is all checked and they are on the tight side of the specs.
1-6 are at .0035" and 7-8 are at .004" I am nervous about this and want to do some research on the specs for the MIL Spec pistons I have.
The factory GM book places this in the normal range but, I dont need any more issues with things.
If need be, I will pull the crank and cam back out and get the block off to the machine shop and have these suckers loosened up a bit.
Better a tad on the loose side than to stick a piston.
At this point it is easy to yank it back apart. Now that I have pastigaged all the bearings, I can simply bag that stuff up and then stuff it back in later.
Later troops, more to come soon.
Missy
Got started on the assembly yesterday.
The cam and crank are all in an buttoned up. Mains and rods are all checked.
Piston clearance is all checked and they are on the tight side of the specs.
1-6 are at .0035" and 7-8 are at .004" I am nervous about this and want to do some research on the specs for the MIL Spec pistons I have.
The factory GM book places this in the normal range but, I dont need any more issues with things.
If need be, I will pull the crank and cam back out and get the block off to the machine shop and have these suckers loosened up a bit.
Better a tad on the loose side than to stick a piston.
At this point it is easy to yank it back apart. Now that I have pastigaged all the bearings, I can simply bag that stuff up and then stuff it back in later.
Later troops, more to come soon.
Missy
davo727
Member
Im thinking let them hone a thousandth or a little more out so shes nice and free
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
UPDATE
OOOOOOOKKKKK here is the straight scoop on the pistons.
These pistons were made by Silvolite and are to be fit with a minimum of .0045 on the front 6 and .0055 on the back 2
Sooooo, I called silvolite and spoke with their people. .0005 and .0006 is the sweet spot they tell me.
Bohn and Zollner are out of business and these pistons were made in 2003.
Also the pistons have the Silvolite LOGO on the top in INK a CIRCLE with SL inside.
The other deal going is that I ahve a set of good used pistons that are also Silvolite but, smaller in size and will come right in on the clearances needed.
Rather than tear the block apart and hone the bores, I am thinking about saving these slugs for another engine later.
The used ones I have are clean and ready to go.
We shall see
Missy.
OOOOOOOKKKKK here is the straight scoop on the pistons.
These pistons were made by Silvolite and are to be fit with a minimum of .0045 on the front 6 and .0055 on the back 2
Sooooo, I called silvolite and spoke with their people. .0005 and .0006 is the sweet spot they tell me.
Bohn and Zollner are out of business and these pistons were made in 2003.
Also the pistons have the Silvolite LOGO on the top in INK a CIRCLE with SL inside.
The other deal going is that I ahve a set of good used pistons that are also Silvolite but, smaller in size and will come right in on the clearances needed.
Rather than tear the block apart and hone the bores, I am thinking about saving these slugs for another engine later.
The used ones I have are clean and ready to go.
We shall see
Missy.
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
UPDATE
Got all the mystery about the Pistons sorted out and we are off and rolling again.
Busy this week with material deliveries and such so not sure when I will get back to the engine.
Definately this weekend soooooooooooo will get more piccy's and such up when I can.
Missy
Got all the mystery about the Pistons sorted out and we are off and rolling again.
Busy this week with material deliveries and such so not sure when I will get back to the engine.
Definately this weekend soooooooooooo will get more piccy's and such up when I can.
Missy
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
UPDATE
This weekend got a bit busy but did manage to get some work done.
The crank and cam are in and all tightened down.
The bearing clearances are all checked and good to go.
The new pistons are going on the shelf for now and a good used set are going in.
The new pistons are slightly larger and the clearances were just right on the ragged edge.
1-6 came in at .0035 and 7-8 were at a very scant .004
I do not want to tear the thing down, truck it to the shop and have it honed at this time.
The used pistons I have are in good shape and are slightly smaller
After measuring the lot of them and the cylinders, I got it all sorted out and have the following.
1 .0045
2 .005
3 .0055
4 .0055
5 .0055
6 .0057
7 .0065
8 .0067
These numbers were at the lowest spot in the cylinder.
Up at the spot that the piston skirt rests when at TDC will be about a half thou more due to slight wear in the cylinders.
This will work well and with no danger of sticking a piston when its hot.
I will save the new pistons for another project
More later
Missy
This weekend got a bit busy but did manage to get some work done.
The crank and cam are in and all tightened down.
The bearing clearances are all checked and good to go.
The new pistons are going on the shelf for now and a good used set are going in.
The new pistons are slightly larger and the clearances were just right on the ragged edge.
1-6 came in at .0035 and 7-8 were at a very scant .004
I do not want to tear the thing down, truck it to the shop and have it honed at this time.
The used pistons I have are in good shape and are slightly smaller
After measuring the lot of them and the cylinders, I got it all sorted out and have the following.
1 .0045
2 .005
3 .0055
4 .0055
5 .0055
6 .0057
7 .0065
8 .0067
These numbers were at the lowest spot in the cylinder.
Up at the spot that the piston skirt rests when at TDC will be about a half thou more due to slight wear in the cylinders.
This will work well and with no danger of sticking a piston when its hot.
I will save the new pistons for another project
More later
Missy
tanman_2006
Just a farm kid...
I'm loving the mix and match style, good to hear you were able to keep things movin.
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
Mix and match is not bad for sure.
Just taking select fit to its best
I am really sort of pleased at being able to use these used pistons up.
They have been sitting in boxes on the shelf for a couple years now.
Will give them something to do :thumbsup:
Really not bad since the crank, cam and other stuff are used too.
Just wish it was all done and back in the truck.
With winter closing in big time, Im am not holding much hope in having the truck running this winter.
Just too stinking wet and cold out to work on the rig.
Sadly the Fat Butt truck will not fit through the shop door
Dummy here ordered an 8x8 foot door instead of a 10x10
Definately thinking about changing that one of these days.
Looked over the numbers (piton and bore sizes) one last time and all looks good.
Just need to swap the pistons onto the rods and start stuffing them into the block now.
Missy
Just taking select fit to its best
I am really sort of pleased at being able to use these used pistons up.
They have been sitting in boxes on the shelf for a couple years now.
Will give them something to do :thumbsup:
Really not bad since the crank, cam and other stuff are used too.
Just wish it was all done and back in the truck.
With winter closing in big time, Im am not holding much hope in having the truck running this winter.
Just too stinking wet and cold out to work on the rig.
Sadly the Fat Butt truck will not fit through the shop door
Dummy here ordered an 8x8 foot door instead of a 10x10
Definately thinking about changing that one of these days.
Looked over the numbers (piton and bore sizes) one last time and all looks good.
Just need to swap the pistons onto the rods and start stuffing them into the block now.
Missy
1995yukon65
Member
any updates on the truck missy?
davo727
Member
Fire up a chainsaw!
Sadly the Fat Butt truck will not fit through the shop door
Missy
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
Not too much.
The weather has closed in hard on us and if its not one thing its 10.
Got a leak in the roof over the master bathroom here in the house. Trying to schedule a roofer to help fix that SOB
I got up there last week and tarped the area off well, and the leak is stopped for now.
Had to cut a 18" square hole in the batyhroom ceiling to let the water out and allow it to dry good.
Used a used up VOTE FOR sign from along the road side to cap the damned hole and keep the breeze from going right up and out the vents. Yeah Buddy, a good use for a used political sign.
The Dahoooley is likely not going to see anything much till spring now.
I will get back onto the engine soon and finish the short block. Had to pay a couple bills, so the $$$$ I had saved for the heads, went away.
Been working on a few home fixemups too so the time just goes away.
Winter is not the best time around here for outside stuff for sure.
As far as cutting the hole bigger to get the fat butt truck inside. I just wish I had installed a 10 foot door on that side of the out building.
Not much to say for now, just getting ready for the first snow that they are talking about now (maybe late in the week)
Later troops
Missy
The weather has closed in hard on us and if its not one thing its 10.
Got a leak in the roof over the master bathroom here in the house. Trying to schedule a roofer to help fix that SOB
I got up there last week and tarped the area off well, and the leak is stopped for now.
Had to cut a 18" square hole in the batyhroom ceiling to let the water out and allow it to dry good.
Used a used up VOTE FOR sign from along the road side to cap the damned hole and keep the breeze from going right up and out the vents. Yeah Buddy, a good use for a used political sign.
The Dahoooley is likely not going to see anything much till spring now.
I will get back onto the engine soon and finish the short block. Had to pay a couple bills, so the $$$$ I had saved for the heads, went away.
Been working on a few home fixemups too so the time just goes away.
Winter is not the best time around here for outside stuff for sure.
As far as cutting the hole bigger to get the fat butt truck inside. I just wish I had installed a 10 foot door on that side of the out building.
Not much to say for now, just getting ready for the first snow that they are talking about now (maybe late in the week)
Later troops
Missy
dangerousdave
1994 6.5 Suburban
Glad you're OK, and its just the roof with a hole in it.