The finer strands of copper carry more current with less resistance, their shielding is MUCH thicker and, welding wire is WAY more flexible than battery wire. With regard to fusible link Pico offers new fusible links for cheap.
BBB came fully loaded with AC, I read the window sticker and was shocked over $10k in options. I guess it's been too long for me in buying a late vehicle. The battery wiring in BBB is 2/0 I could've gone smaller but I had this stuff on hand when I did up my Jeep for the winch and other.
They all have one. Yours may be a different shape.
P pulse, ie tach,
L light, ie warning light, 12v only when the key is on.
F field, don't use.
S sense, 12v from your junction block or starter.
There is an excellent write up called the alternator Bible on the web, by Billa Vista.
So, from what I gather the root of my charging issues is that there's wiring missing from the OE manufature on this CS130D of mine and that is is a "self exciting" type, and that single wire in the pic is the "L" circuit?
I've had some experience lately with the crew at Advance when I was having starter issues 8 months ago. They didn't know how to connect thier test machine...
As it is I already have the CS144 lined up with an added grounding lug I attached. Just trying to figure out how to best wire this PLFS with the exiting wiring, if possible. Mind you I've run wiring for the Ford style electrical on my CJ 5, but this K1500 still has me kind of mystified for lack of a complete, clear wiring diagram in the SM.
Leo, I live just north of Millersburg, close to the Morningstar Grange. I changed to a CS144 a couple (make that several years ago) years ago. For me it was a plug and play experience electrically. I did have to modify the mounting brackets though. I am very satisfied with the CS144.
Thats great to know Don, I ws hoping I'm on the right track. From what I'm gathering it seems that the existing CS130 in BBB for lack of a (S)ense wire hookup the alternator cannot distiguish total load on the electrical sysem. If that makes sense, pardon the pun.
Auto parts store to test alts and starters: your Fing kidding right? You drop off cores or exchange bags of poo under lifetime warranty there.
Look up an "auto electric" shop of any kind especially one that can rebuild them in house for a test from folks that know what they are doing. This won't catch intermittent starter solenoids, but, it's head and shoulders above the untrained parts dispensers.
We used to have a little elecrtical shop on Peoria road that I once took all of my work to that I couldn't figure out myself, but now it's a pulled pork place. Still I like the idea of fresh bearings, windings, etc. Not to mention better reliability of the 144 over the 130.
my $0.02; the original OEM cs130 lasted 22 years, PO may have had it rebuilt. I had it "rebuilt" by a recommended shop, lasted 2 weeks. Kept taking it back under warranty until the tech put in a 144 just to get rid of me. That one worked great for 2 months, died, then I got a new Delco Remy 130 Exact replacement. It Can't keep up with all the electrics and will code. I zip tied a spare solar panel on top of the rack until my pennies stack up enough for a new 244.
Regulator for the solar is now under the hood.
Thanks to all for this thread.
If the shop you are talking about was behind the market I used to work with him. His name is Jim Morton. I don't remember exactly what happened, whether he lost his lease, or his health deteriorated enough that he was forced to quit. Anyway, the last I talked to him he was moving to Sweet Home.
If you need a Mom and Pop type of auto electric repair shop I would recommend Terry at Truck N Tractor. He's located at 4750 Pacific Blvd. This is between 34th and 53rd, in the low area of Pacific, about one long block north of South Pacific Auto Sales, same side of Pacific as the car lot. The building isn't much to look at, kind of messy on the inside, but he knows what he is doing. For the past couple years there has been a woman (not sure of her name) working there also.
That's the Aternator and Magneto place right, Don?
Still I kind of want to use what I have, and I can keep the 130(D?) waiting in the wings for the potential failure of the 144,
My main question now is;
With a suitable resistor between this wire and the L will this work for the correct setup on this '96 GMC K1500 w350?
Or should I introduce a new circuit on this truck?