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CS-144 Alternator conversion bracket - fitted to 95 6.5

SmithvilleD

SmithvilleD

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Fabricated a rear mount bracket, fitting my '95 6.5, to upgrade from the stock CS-130 to the CS-144 alternator. There are several threads about doing this; thought I'd share what I came up with as well.

I wanted something that kept the triangulated support the OEM rear bracket for the CS-130 had. Drew up a template on cardboard, then used my portaband saw/table to cut a "C" shaped piece that mates to both available mounting bolts on the back of the CS-144 & also ties in with the bottom/front alternator mounting bolt. The C shape is made out of 1/4" hot rolled steel. Decided on the C shape so as not to restrict cooling airflow to the bridge rectifier.

From the OEM rear bracket, I cut off the portion that's bent to vertical & mounted the back of the CS-130. The cut was made so what's left matches/fit where the back of the C shaped bracket sets, with the alternator mounted. Tacked this in place, then added a short piece of bar stock to reinforce the 90 degree joint where the C shape & remains of the OEM rear bracket meet.

The 2nd mount is simply 1/4" x 1" bar steel with hole centers drilled a bit shorter than the OEM CS-130 strap. I'm still debating if adding a piece from the front of this upper alternator mount to the front of the belt tensioner would actually add enough useful rigidity/strength to be worth the effort? It would mount the upper alternator ear in double-shear, but the tensioner itself mounts/bolts only from its rear to the cast engine accessory bracket.
 
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You approached the rear mount differently than I did, but with the same results. A very solid mount. I also did a single strap, like you did, for the upper mount over to the belt tensioner. I just did the one strap, and it has been in use for 3 or 4 years now with no problems.

I made the top strap mount shorter than stock. This made the alt set real close to the belt tensioner, but there is still about a quarter inch of clearance to the tensioner. This was so that the original belt fit so that I, or anybody else, could go to any auto parts store and ask for a stock belt size and have it fit.

You will love the CS-144 alt. It definitely made a difference on my pickup's charging system.

Don
 
Don - in doing my research, I started with your post & pictures of cutting the original bracket & rewelding it shifted rearward. I was having difficulty picturing how to modify the face that fits to back of alternator, to use both rear alt mounting points & not impact airflow. I also noted TheFermanator's approach, years back, of using a short chunk of angle iron welded on to cut OEM bracket - because of the practical advantages of fabricating with square, 90 degree surfaces.

A "C" shape seemed to be the solution, plus I bought SWAG OffRoad's Portaband table last Fall. Gotta justify the tool purchases right :) This table expands the usefulness of a Portaband. The table & saw are a cost-effective, faster (than plasma with circle cutter attachment) way to make precise cuts to get a shape like the "C" part of my bracket.

The truck is close to done as regards the long list of side projects that made sense to do when front of truck is apart for fitting the DMax IC into the 3500HD core support, body lift, etc. Having the front end out of the way makes for easy access to the alternator area - so it was the time to get this done.20151003_185357.jpg
 

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I'll need to measure it to be certain. It's the original that came with it. I have some Morse brand blades that I thought should be better quality than saw came with, but original blade is still cutting well.

This blade wouldn't quite do that inner radius without step ahead, back, put a bit of side load on it,...repeat to get it done. The inner radius was 3". Going from memory, I think the outer was around 4 7/8" - this setup cut that bend easy enough just going forward in one smooth twist.

I bought this precision miter & the associated channel to mount on the side bend of the table: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007UQ2DW/?tag=jhuntlink-20

It should make for repeatable, rather precise angle cuts. SWAG makes these tables with good tight tolerance bends.

I'm working a 16 hr shift tonight so will be maybe a day before I have a chance to get blade measurement. I haven't used the saw enough to find it's durability limits. Think HF is now selling a better one for a little more $. After seeing how much this setup has sped up fabricating brackets, I'd recommend either this setup, or the higher quality Milwaukee, DeWalt etc., portabands & SWAG's table to fit them. The tables that fit the higher $ saws are available with the miter slot either laser cut? or probably precision machined in. Bit more $, but probably worth it.
 
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Just found the blade spec on the web. 1/2" - 14 tpi - 44 7/8" length. The tighter 3" radius took back/forth to widen the kerf a bit with enough pressure on the blade you could begin to feel the blade's spot weld go by.
 
Nice indeed, I'm looking at the AD244 x 2 or maybe just one for when I get my newer CAC installed and wonder how they will fit, or if the CS 144 is a better option.

The DuraMax CAC looks to be a nice addition especially w/HD radiator support, I'm sticking to a higher capacity RAM CAC.
 
Believe most of the AD244 internals are the same as CS-144 - same performance specs/rotor/windings/bridge rectifier. Could be better cooling with internal fan? Might be the AD244 has an updated rear bearing?

I haven't looked closely at the '96-99 truck's alternator mounts. The AD244 has more material around the mounting ears & does away with any rear mounting points. So if the '96-99's mounts hold both alternator ears in double shear, would think the AD244 is the better & easier (same plug) route. Might need a bit longer belt.

I'll have more pictures of the IC/core support soon as truck is back on the road. Snow started flying this week here & my Pontiac G8 GT would like a break from winter roads.
 
SmithvilleD said:
I'll have more pictures of the IC/core support soon as truck is back on the road. Snow started flying this week here & my Pontiac G8 GT would like a break from winter roads.
Click to expand...

I'm really looking forward to more pics. I like the theory behind what you are doing, and am interested in seeing how everything works out. I know this is not a good time of year to test out a cooling system, but still looking forward to seeing how it does.

Don
 
I put the AD244 on my 95 Burb. The thickness is the same as the old CS130 alternator so the back bracket can still be used.
You just need to shave off the 3 o'clock bolt because the battery cable bolt is there but the bottom bolt can still be put in there.

Then I made a short bracket in Pic 5 to hold the side.
 
The AD244 is the updated, newer version large frame alternator - so 144 updated to newer model 244. The number refers to rotor size, for example cs-130/cs-130d = 130 rotor, cs-144/AD244 = 144 rotor.

The AD's have the new, more rounded cover with internal fan. The AD-244 mounts entirely by 2 - 2" ears - no rear mount points. From what I read on the QuickStart automotive products alternator site, it looks like the American made AD-244's have a more reliable rear bearing than most CS-144's have.

While warmed up/steady state performance specs are similar btwn CS-144 + AD-244, I think the AD-244 is a better alternator. I just already had the CS-144 and that's still a big improvement over the CS-130 my truck came with.
 
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I went with an AD-244 and kept the factory charge wire. Its been just fine. Curious if you went with any improvement on your charge wire.

I like the swag table and saw. I don't have a way to cut much and that looks affordable and flexible if I need to work on something away from home.
 
I did a heavier charge wire quite a while ago, anticipating I'd upgrade to the CS-144. I'm finishing up these brackets & installed the better alternator now as I've had the front end/rad/core support out for DMax IC project.

Doing a number of things I've been planning (& squirreling away the parts for), while the front end is off:

moved oil cooler (now with oil temp controlled fan),... from in front of cooling stack,... to behind a (now ventilated) skid plate, 3" body lift, hydroboost from DMax that fits matching brake master cyl,...to match GMT800 2 piston brakes front & back, new power-steering pump, & rebuilding/resealing/readjusted (via TheFermanator's thread) steering box. Spending considerable time sorting out the details of these projects.

I still need to confirm what length belt fits where I've got alternator. I'll look at what I used for charge wire. Will also check what I used for fusible link, or fuse, on that run to batts. Can't recall (with the number of details I'm juggling), but I know it's important - expect that run from alt to batteries could see some spike loads beyond the steadystate alternator current rating.
 
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