Cooling Upgrade Idea, want your thoughts

[William McNett]

I've read lots about higher flow pumps, bigger fans, fan clutches, ......... but I have yet to read where anyone has addressed the rear cylinder heat issue.

Coolant enters the front of the block and goes out the front of the heads. How does the coolant ever move through the back of the block and heads?

On my 383ci small block I've tapped into the intake manifold / rear coolant ports that are blocked off / and plumed two lines up to the front crossover in the manifold. Coolant from the rear of the head/block flows out the back and up to the thermostat.

Beings I currently have my S intake off, cleaning out the baked on blow by and converting it to an F intake with the help of tig welder, I though why not tap into the rear coolant block off plates on the heads and plumb two lines into the front crossover?

 

[tanman_2006]

I think Heath used to sell a kit that did that. It was later discovered that the a lat model HO pump with bypass restriction was the best option.

 

[schiker]

There was a balance flow kit for a while and if done properly it might not be bad. Might want to read several threads on balance flow. It was a hotter topic in earlier forums. Most on here have already solved their high temp problems with a systematic approach. IMO the key is the best and latest water pump. The turbulence and higher flowrate help even the heat out.

 

[Will L.]

The problem with letting the water come out the heads at the dearie it does not have the flow over the middle of the head. The flow is from the pump through the block to the back of the heads, through the heads towards the front then out the thermostat housing. Pulling it out the back of the head does help the back cylinder, but hurts the middle cylinders.

The original water pump flowed something like 65% left side and 35% right side. That is why the new water pump design is called the "balanced flow". It flows 50 /50. It is also a higher output of volume. Read up on it and you'll be up to speed. Good thinking though, same idea many good minds have come up with that lead to the final solution.

 

[6.2 turbo]

I used the block off plates that were already threaded. Tee'd them together with 3/8 hose,from there goes into the heater core,and returns into the radiator. If you return to the crossover it wouldn't circulate very much,if any.

 

[SnowDrift]

I have the Heath Balance Flow kit on mine. If the water pump option would have been proven before I put it on, I'd probably have gone with that, instead. My glow plug relay is difficult to access now, due to relocation, but aside from that, it's not a hassle to have the hoses there. The balancing "can" gives me something to lean on when I'm under the hood - it's pretty stout.

 

[Brooklyn Tow]

Just for cooling in general......The only one component that made a noticeable difference was the 21" D Max plastic fan blade.

 

[William McNett]

After some searching and reading, I see that the front ports are blocked off in newer blocks and the water has to flow to the rear of the block then from the rear of the heads to the front. So unless I have an old block with the front ports open, I'd be wasting my time, not cooling the front half of the heads very well, that and I would have no idea how to balance the flow between the 2 sides.

http://www.teakatoys.com/Equalizer_Head_Cooling_Kit_6_5td_PM_H1_PER_211_p/pm-h1-per-211.htm
http://www.hummerpartsclub.com/mm5/...Code=H&Product_Code=H1-PER-211&Category_Code=

 

[3500GMC]

H/O water pump. Single stat.

 

[Pruittx2]

My system is mostly stock, and in great condition. I did replace the metal 6 blade with the 21" Duramax composite fan with a new fan clutch. It had a H/O water pump put on be4 I got it.

Yesterday stuck on I-96 going towards Grand Rapids, for 9 miles, at a crawl. out side air, was 91F with heat index of 100F. Sometimes idling for 10 mins, at a time on the hot road, or rolling @ 10 for 1/2 mile at a time,,,,both air units on full blast,, Big Black beauty sucking up the sun and heat, looking down at the gauge, It never moves off the 195F mark EVER!!! 30 mins later cruisiing @ 70mph,, still 195F. 40F March Michigan crisp cool days,, 2 hr drive,, you got it, 195F!

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?35349-Fan-Clutch-replacement-Mod <------ Here's what i did.

 

[JMJNet]

My system is mostly stock, and in great condition. I did replace the metal 6 blade with the 21" Duramax composite fan with a new fan clutch. It had a H/O water pump put on be4 I got it.

Yesterday stuck on I-96 going towards Grand Rapids, for 9 miles, at a crawl. out side air, was 91F with heat index of 100F. Sometimes idling for 10 mins, at a time on the hot road, or rolling @ 10 for 1/2 mile at a time,,,,both air units on full blast,, Big Black beauty sucking up the sun and heat, looking down at the gauge, It never moves off the 195F mark EVER!!! 30 mins later cruisiing @ 70mph,, still 195F. 40F March Michigan crisp cool days,, 2 hr drive,, you got it, 195F!

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?35349-Fan-Clutch-replacement-Mod <------ Here's what i did.

Just for reference 91F is a nice summer day in TX which is last Sunday till Wednesday with some rains.
Typically, we are at about 100-110F with Heat Index around 105-120F.

 

[SnowDrift]

My system is mostly stock, and in great condition. I did replace the metal 6 blade with the 21" Duramax composite fan with a new fan clutch. It had a H/O water pump put on be4 I got it.

Yesterday stuck on I-96 going towards Grand Rapids, for 9 miles, at a crawl. out side air, was 91F with heat index of 100F. Sometimes idling for 10 mins, at a time on the hot road, or rolling @ 10 for 1/2 mile at a time,,,,both air units on full blast,, Big Black beauty sucking up the sun and heat, looking down at the gauge, It never moves off the 195F mark EVER!!! 30 mins later cruisiing @ 70mph,, still 195F. 40F March Michigan crisp cool days,, 2 hr drive,, you got it, 195F!

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?35349-Fan-Clutch-replacement-Mod <------ Here's what i did.

Those are good results. I am going to think about getting this Duramax fan. My clutch is the Hayden model I bought from Heath about 8-10 years ago. I always thought it came on a little later than it should, even when new. My biggest issue was that before I replaced my radiator, I couldn't get the temperature to "recover" at idle after pulling a load without unloading and going for a quick drive up to about 50+ mph to run some wind through. No troubles after the new radiator, though.

When I installed the Balance Flow kit, I wasn't having any cooling problems. I installed it simply as a measure to try to reduce chances of hot spot problems.

 

[William McNett]

Is the 99-1/2 through 2000 ACDelco 251603 pump any better, balanced flow or otherwise, than the 251590 or is it the same pump that comes with the pulley and having a different shaft for the screw on clutch?
Also, is the Hayden Severe Duty clutch any better than the standard ACDelco clutch? From what I'm reading the Hayden engages at about 170

Not that I need either yet. 210 is the hottest I've seen and that was a few weeks ago when I hit some water in the road and threw the serpentine belt off, no belt driven pump, fan, or clutch will help when that happens.

 

[vstech]

After some searching and reading, I see that the front ports are blocked off in newer blocks and the water has to flow to the rear of the block then from the rear of the heads to the front. So unless I have an old block with the front ports open, I'd be wasting my time, not cooling the front half of the heads very well, that and I would have no idea how to balance the flow between the 2 sides.
View attachment 38326
http://www.teakatoys.com/Equalizer_Head_Cooling_Kit_6_5td_PM_H1_PER_211_p/pm-h1-per-211.htm
http://www.hummerpartsclub.com/mm5/...Code=H&Product_Code=H1-PER-211&Category_Code=

Hmm, I always thought the heads were mirror images of each, but according to your picture, your heads would be specific left and right... you are missing a bolt up front...