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Cooling Mod

Rodd

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I may be late to the game and this has been posted here or it is from someone here in the forum. My son found this and wants to do it. I told him that it would be much easier to do before we install the engine. What do you guys think, yes/no?

 
this has been discussed more than once.... years ago also some products on the market each had its own theory and section of pipes

there are still some people selling their own Humvee kit
also here in the forum there is someone who has thought about it... maybe not so much to cool down, but to improve the circulation on the engine heads in his new reconstruction project

if your aim is to lower the temperature you should connect after the thermostats going directly to the radiator....but I would also put a tap there to better manage the gap between winter and summer, as regards the section of the pipes to be connected it seems that 1 /8" may be sufficient, but some have used 3/8", 1/2" and even a 3/4" in the past (see Bill Heath's "Balance-Flow" cooling system).

someone just to have a more uniform temperature on all cylinders, especially on the rear ones that suffer from circulation ... not adequate
there are also those who also enlarged the holes on the head gaskets.... which are actually restrictive....but I wouldn't get involved if you don't know what you're doing
 
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This certainly is a new and creative twist on dubious advice.

FWIW, I installed an ECT sending unit in the port at #8 on the '99 Burb (with an OE dual t-stat setup and running a HO pump). Do not recall seeing anything more than a few degrees (Fahrenheit) difference from the ECT sending units at the front of the engine. With that, this old 'trick' is looking like nothing more than a new twist of old lore that just won't die. GM engineered-out this issue via a better water pump and thermostat housing setup, but some people apparently want to go to great lengths in avoiding the correct solution as the Heavens will erupt should they do something like get the correct parts. Oh well...

But, hey, a 20-something Influencer's gotta make money from per-view ad revenue somehow. And just like a 20-something, Nobody, EVER, looked into this issue before them and they are the FIRST to discover the cure that we all need to fix which will save the world. <SMH> o_O Just hope that not many engines are sent to the scrap yard from this 'advice' as they are getting more challenging to find and some parts are going unobtanium.

BTW, looks like somebody called-out this questionable path in the video's comments.
 
I was pondering this idea a while back but I have since installed a guage into the rear port on the passengers side head and I too don't see any difference in it's reading and the one in the front drivers side head. I have a 195 stat installed and it mostly stays at 190 on the gauges other than driving on the freeway with a higher rpm I see the temps rise to close to 200 but never anything higher. Although I rarely pull a trailer or load the bed.

I think the best upgrade is the pump from the 2000+ 6.5 coupled with the dmax fan blade and clutch. mine had the electro-viscous clutch from a 2010 dmax express van that was a direct fit onto the pump. I wired a controller on it to enguage at 200 deg plus instant on when the ac is running (wired to the fan pressure switch in the compressor) I actually rarely see the fan engage unless I'm in traffic in the middle of the Texas summer heat.
 
I am curious on how he got both turbos to fit. I gave mine a good looksee on how to fit a down pipe on the drivers side with the steering column and other things in the way. I really don't see how it would fit even if a fella used two GM-x turbos which in my case I would go with since I have two extra ones here.
 
Custom exhaust manifolds/downpipes. See Bill Heath's Bonneville Salt Flats 6.5 dual turbo (one turbo feeding each cylinder bank opposite of it) motor that was featured in DieselPower about ten or so years ago. He did get over 150MPH out of his pickup, with some other mods besides the two turbos - like a Ford 9" rear with really tall gearing for starters.
 
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