I have a 1994 RV that has a chevy 6.5 turbo diesel engine and a 4l80e transmission. For some reason my coolan reservoir tank is bubbling. I was told it was a leaking head gasket and to confirm to do a combustion leak test. So i did the test and it was changing colors. I did a blue devil head gasket sealer and the test is coming back normal now (no change in color). But the tank still bubbling. We have replaced the thermostat, the radiator cap, and still nothing. What can it be?
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Coolant reservoir tank
- Thread starter Krivera12
- Start date
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Options:
Blown head gasket
Cracked head
Cracked block
nurse it, keep temps low and plan on new engine.
Do ask tons of questions before buying anything anywhere.
Massive rip off places out there.
Can you do labor yourself ?
If you EVER had the temp at 230 or above- expect heads cracked AT LEAST, and chances are the block also.
Blown head gasket
Cracked head
Cracked block
nurse it, keep temps low and plan on new engine.
Do ask tons of questions before buying anything anywhere.
Massive rip off places out there.
Can you do labor yourself ?
If you EVER had the temp at 230 or above- expect heads cracked AT LEAST, and chances are the block also.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
There's no real solution to fixing a head gasket leak using those sealant additives. only tried and true method is the unfortunate replacement of the gaskets if the heads or block isn't cracked.
here is something I have done in a pinch but I don't recommend it as a permanent fix...
In the past I have done the old farmers trick with a mazda b2200 pickup. it's a crap shoot but I was successful on this one. go to the local pharmacy or the local Walmart and look for a large gar of sodium silicate. you can also add some black pepper or crushed to tiny bits egg shell in with it. I only used the sodium silicate by it's self. the first thing to do is drain all the coolant and completely flush the system. pull the thermostat and put it back together without it. fill with fresh water and run it with some good revs and drain again, you don't need to get it hot, just to stirr up any debris and get it all out of the block.
next fill about half way with water and pour in the silicate. for the capacity on these rigs you might need two jars. fill the rest of the way with water, cap it and run it getting it up to operating temp and making sure the system gets pressurized. then shut it off and drain it all out. pop the lower rad hose off and make sure to get as much water out as possible. then let it sit to completely dry.
the idea is that the silicate gets into all the cracks and crevices of the block and then drys and hardens sealing up any leaking cracks. after about 24 to 48 hours you can re-install the thermostat and fill with water to test and see if that did the trick.. of so, drain and fill with antifreeze and water and go off on your way.
when I did this, it prolonged having to do the head gaskets for about 2 years. just be dam sure you never get it hot or the "glass" will fail and your back to square one.
here is something I have done in a pinch but I don't recommend it as a permanent fix...
In the past I have done the old farmers trick with a mazda b2200 pickup. it's a crap shoot but I was successful on this one. go to the local pharmacy or the local Walmart and look for a large gar of sodium silicate. you can also add some black pepper or crushed to tiny bits egg shell in with it. I only used the sodium silicate by it's self. the first thing to do is drain all the coolant and completely flush the system. pull the thermostat and put it back together without it. fill with fresh water and run it with some good revs and drain again, you don't need to get it hot, just to stirr up any debris and get it all out of the block.
next fill about half way with water and pour in the silicate. for the capacity on these rigs you might need two jars. fill the rest of the way with water, cap it and run it getting it up to operating temp and making sure the system gets pressurized. then shut it off and drain it all out. pop the lower rad hose off and make sure to get as much water out as possible. then let it sit to completely dry.
the idea is that the silicate gets into all the cracks and crevices of the block and then drys and hardens sealing up any leaking cracks. after about 24 to 48 hours you can re-install the thermostat and fill with water to test and see if that did the trick.. of so, drain and fill with antifreeze and water and go off on your way.
when I did this, it prolonged having to do the head gaskets for about 2 years. just be dam sure you never get it hot or the "glass" will fail and your back to square one.
We have done this with blue devil head gasket sealer. Which seemed to solve our bigger issue but we still getting bubbling in the reservoir tank.
no overheating
No smoke
No obvious leaks
No coolant level changes
No oil in coolant
No coolant in oil
Oil pressure is normal
no overheating
No smoke
No obvious leaks
No coolant level changes
No oil in coolant
No coolant in oil
Oil pressure is normal
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
when you cap the radiator does the system pressurize quickly as if exhaust is being pushed into the cooling system? if the reservoir tank is in the loop (has the radiator cap) and not one that just feeds from the overflow like the old school cooling systems, it has a small hose that goes to it from the radiator along with the main hose. when the engine is running coolant is being pushed into the reservoir through that hose. if the system still has air, that can be what your seeing also. just a thought.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
another thought, is your radiator cap holding pressure? if it's not sealing properly that can be the issue. aftermarket caps like from the auto parts are sometimes crap even when new.
only other thing I would suggest is maybe another treatment of the blue devil sealant but again it's only a crap shoot.
only other thing I would suggest is maybe another treatment of the blue devil sealant but again it's only a crap shoot.