Mad Maxx
See, what had happened was...
Standing up, Leaning against the Wall.
I know about Flat Spots. This was def. not a Flat Spot kinda thing.
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Cool, Now I Got Death Wobble!!
- Thread starter Mad Maxx
- Start date
Standing up, Leaning against the Wall.
I know about Flat Spots. This was def. not a Flat Spot kinda thing.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Then my money is on one tire separating the cores and those dont usually show up on a balancer because of no load on the side wall until there is a visible ripple on the side wall near the edge of the bead. If you run them keep the speed down until you can id the bad one. That is the body killing tire damage and is far more prone to happen to lower profile side walls.
stacksram
New Member
as crazy as it sounds lol my 03 3500 ram just got over the death wobble. I replaced every thing a piece at a time and what fixed it was when i put new lower control arms on and moved the caster on the axle to the max to the front and it went away lots of money spent and that was it.
btfarm
America First!
Caster has alot to do with steering stability and changing anything about the ride height cas adversly affect caster. Just cranking T-bars several turns will make it wander all over until the caster is reset.
Mad Maxx
See, what had happened was...
So...still got the Death Wobble, I've just been slowing down when I come to certain Bumps in the Road.
But...I did find out that the Moog Ball Joints that come with the Cognito UCA's are POS's. Now, while my Upper Ball Joints don't show signs of being bad, and after reading people have the Ball Joints go bad in as little as 1k Miles, I think it's a good idea to replace them and see what that gets me.
So I ordered a set of Raybestos Pro Grade ones that are said to be WAY better than the Moog's that the UCA's come with.
But...I did find out that the Moog Ball Joints that come with the Cognito UCA's are POS's. Now, while my Upper Ball Joints don't show signs of being bad, and after reading people have the Ball Joints go bad in as little as 1k Miles, I think it's a good idea to replace them and see what that gets me.
So I ordered a set of Raybestos Pro Grade ones that are said to be WAY better than the Moog's that the UCA's come with.
Mad Maxx
See, what had happened was...
Ok, time to bring this one back and get some more Input.
Replaced all 4 Control Arms with Raybestos Professional Series. The Uppers are really nice, they have an Adjustable Ball Joint for Camber / Caster.
Death wobble went away and Truck felt REAL nice. The best it's ever Driven that I can remember. Now, it's come back. It's nowhere near as bad as it was before, but it's def there. The stretch of road that I always Travel on was just Repaved this past Fall, so it's as smooth as can be. The thing that triggers the Wobble is a Bump or Crack in the Road on only 1 of the Front Wheels (If both Front Wheels hit the Bump or Crack, usually nothing happens), or if I go about 1/2 throttle from a stop and keep it there on my way up to Highway Speed, basically making the Front End "Light", the Wobble will usually come in around 45mph and get worse as I Speed Up.
Up to now, I have replaced everything in the Front End / Steering....EXCEPT the Pitman Arm. I have one, but I know it's gonna be a PITA to get it off so that's why I haven't tackled it yet.
Now....I have been reading that Warped Rotors can cause Death Wobble. Some people say it can, some say it can't. I get ZERO Shake when I hit the Brakes, but at this point, I'm at a loss, so anything that comes to mind, I try to pin the Wobble on it.
Anyone got any other Ideas other than setting it on Fire / Driving it off a Dock (although I'm getting close to one of these)
Replaced all 4 Control Arms with Raybestos Professional Series. The Uppers are really nice, they have an Adjustable Ball Joint for Camber / Caster.
Death wobble went away and Truck felt REAL nice. The best it's ever Driven that I can remember. Now, it's come back. It's nowhere near as bad as it was before, but it's def there. The stretch of road that I always Travel on was just Repaved this past Fall, so it's as smooth as can be. The thing that triggers the Wobble is a Bump or Crack in the Road on only 1 of the Front Wheels (If both Front Wheels hit the Bump or Crack, usually nothing happens), or if I go about 1/2 throttle from a stop and keep it there on my way up to Highway Speed, basically making the Front End "Light", the Wobble will usually come in around 45mph and get worse as I Speed Up.
Up to now, I have replaced everything in the Front End / Steering....EXCEPT the Pitman Arm. I have one, but I know it's gonna be a PITA to get it off so that's why I haven't tackled it yet.
Now....I have been reading that Warped Rotors can cause Death Wobble. Some people say it can, some say it can't. I get ZERO Shake when I hit the Brakes, but at this point, I'm at a loss, so anything that comes to mind, I try to pin the Wobble on it.
Anyone got any other Ideas other than setting it on Fire / Driving it off a Dock (although I'm getting close to one of these)
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
I'd double check your tie rods.
- Staff
- #28
Alignment and track bar are the 2 biggies to check followed by tires. Warped rotors can cause it while hitting the brakes as it can cause one side to grab, then the other which induces the death wobble chain of events. Caster is VERY critical as far as death wobble goes, to little and it wants to constantly wander side to side, and a small bump sets it off. Or to much/little toe in.
btfarm
America First!
Caster is my guess too. When I first cranked up the T bars the truck wandered all over until I reset the caster.
Mad Maxx
See, what had happened was...
Tie Rods are Brand New - Kryptonite ones
Is it possible to have TOO MUCH Caster on our Trucks? I know the more Caster you add, the stiffer the Steering, and Less, the easier (hence Death Wobble)
Is it possible to have TOO MUCH Caster on our Trucks? I know the more Caster you add, the stiffer the Steering, and Less, the easier (hence Death Wobble)
btfarm
America First!
The factory spec is good for cranked bars. I'm not positive if it's lifted. Maybe more positive caster is needed.
Mad Maxx
See, what had happened was...
Ok, got the Pitman replaced the evening with the help of a friend. Didn't need to cut it off like most have to. Just got a Puller on there and it came right off.
Steering is Tighter than it ever has been.
But....wobble is still there. Not as much as before, but it's STILL there.
So now literally everything has been replaced in the Front End and all that has happened is the wobble got less and less with each part replacement, but it never went away.
Crazy thing is the wobble only started AFTER the lift was installed. Every nut, bolt, part, whatever has been checked 10x over to make sure they're all tight, on the correct side, not installed backwards, ect... and nothing can be found as to what is causing the wobble.
So if all goes well on Saturday, I may be coming home with a new Tahoe or Suburban.
Steering is Tighter than it ever has been.
But....wobble is still there. Not as much as before, but it's STILL there.
So now literally everything has been replaced in the Front End and all that has happened is the wobble got less and less with each part replacement, but it never went away.
Crazy thing is the wobble only started AFTER the lift was installed. Every nut, bolt, part, whatever has been checked 10x over to make sure they're all tight, on the correct side, not installed backwards, ect... and nothing can be found as to what is causing the wobble.
So if all goes well on Saturday, I may be coming home with a new Tahoe or Suburban.
btfarm
America First!
Got to be caster or camber or both AFAIC
- Staff
- #34
If it started with the lift, then you know the problem is with the lift. Either alignment, a part was installed incorrectly causing analignment issue, or a part was left out to brace the front end.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
I just went back and read the whole thread again. Didn't realize it was this problem we were talking about. These tires went on after the lift I'm guessing? It is either the rim/ tires or this diameter along with part of the geometry of the lift. If you replaced the rims and tires with different ones and the problem went away, that tells you that part is the problem.
Mad Maxx
See, what had happened was...
Wobble came back with the 22's & 35's.
I now have on the 24's & 33's and the wobble is still there.
I think the Bigger / Wider Tires that are on the 22's were just masking the problem. Because after having them on for a while, the wobble did infact come back.
I now have on the 24's & 33's and the wobble is still there.
I think the Bigger / Wider Tires that are on the 22's were just masking the problem. Because after having them on for a while, the wobble did infact come back.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Crud! Gubmit conspiracy I say!
The shakes most likely coming from your heavy wheel and tire combo. They probably need 6 oz of stick on weights to balance them. If the tires are good ,rebalancing should help. I used to run TSL bias ply on the road,and have experienced death wobble quiet often. I was always rebalacing them,but I could never get them perfect.