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Code P0046

Mousie2004

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2004 Silverado 2500 HD 6.6 LLY 65000 miles. Truck is stock bought new only used to pull a 32 ft camper. Truck runs good, engine light has come on at different times and then would go off and stay off then come back on. now it stays on all the time. I removed the battery terminals pulled the Turbo Vane Control Solenoid it seemed ok , so I washed it in cleaner dried it and reoiled it reinstalled light stayed off but has now come back on with the same code. Could the Solenoid just be bad or something else.
 
On lower milage trucks it is normally 1 of 2 things, sooted turbo causing the veins to stick, or a bad vein position sensor. If the veins are sticking, unfortunately it isn't uncommon for the clocking ring to crack/break.
 
I removed the vein position sensor today it had a some build up on it so I cleaned it and replaced code light is off for now is this a good indicator it is a bad sensor. Is there a cleaner you can spray to remove the soot.
 
The use of wmi- cleaning the combustion chamber is so dramatic most people don’t believe it when you show comparison pics. I know it cleans the turbine wheel also rather than simply moving the carbon from cylinder to the turbine wheel or turbine housing.

I wonder if it helps veins much. If it does clean them, the crazy path the soot gets caught up in for some of the newer rigs like this one and the cummins that suffer same issue- how would that be for a “repair” cleaning like os done for valves on gas di injected engines that don't have the fuel cleaning benefit.
 
More than likely you have a stuck unison ring in the turbo. The best way to figure it out is a bidirectional scanner. Command the vane solenoid to move and watch it on the scanner. If it moves but doesn't match the desired position its probably stinking. Especially if it stops in the same place every time. If it doesn't move at all. Remove the position sensor. And push on it with your finger and watch the scanner. If the sensor changes on the scanner it's a more than likely a stuck ring. I dont see may solenoid issues on those turbos. You can remove the turbo and clean it. As long as the turbine housing isn't worn too much.
 
Can these VVT turbos be cleaned in place? Or do they have to be removed?
What is used to clean these?
There's many discussions of using various ways to clean them in place with most being not particularly successful. Removal seems to be the best solution. Not exactly an easy job.
 
Just giving a shoutout to Tefermanator, I finally pulled the turbo on my Duramax last week (what a job) it was just as you said, veins were stuck and all sooted up unison ring was cracked. I cleaned up the veins and turbo installed a new unison ring and gaskets. Truck is running great and more codes. Thanks
 
Cool... did you have to drop the motor?
How many miles on motor?
@Mousie2004
(My reply yesterday should have said NO more codes) Only 66000 on the motor, I didn't have to pull the motor. Removed both inter fender wells and had a lot of patience, up pipe bolts were tough getting out. About a 8 hour removal and a 8 hour reinstall.
 
Duramax up pipe bolts always give me issues. They are hardened and like to break a chuck of thread off the manifold when removing. Then you have to fight them back and forth to get them to come out. Ohio weather is a big factor too.

That's why I leave the up pipes in place when I pull the turbos. I only remove the 6 bolts at the turbo. Then pull the drain tube studs and it slides right out. It's a challenge to line it back up though.
 
I have a shop full of tools but no lift.
Yeah, times a lift would be mighty handy. My truck is on larger than stock tires, front end jacked to almost max so its pretty easy to get under it to work on.
When these tires wears out, original size going on and front end getting dropped, then the front end can be aligned to remove the slight pull to the right, so the align shop said. LOL
 
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