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Clutch & Master

Twisted Steel Performance

Twisted Steel Performance

Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
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Location
Pauline, SC
Well, after going through 2 NEW clutch master cly's & 2 NEW slave cly's, with all of them failing within a week I am going to give the pre bled assembly a try before I remove the tranny and look for something wrong with the fork & ball...

I know it will be a bitch to get the assembled stuff in without breaking something.

Has anyone tired the assembly before... how much did you tear up getting it in and how did it work when done??
 
I'm curious myself. I bought the slave and master separately from Napa because I was in a hurry and needed the truck running. Always wished I had gotten the prebled assembly.
 
sctrailrider said:
Well, after going through 2 NEW clutch master cly's & 2 NEW slave cly's, with all of them failing within a week I am going to give the pre bled assembly a try before I remove the tranny and look for something wrong with the fork & ball...

I know it will be a bitch to get the assembled stuff in without breaking something.

Has anyone tired the assembly before... how much did you tear up getting it in and how did it work when done??
Click to expand...

Never have used a pre bled on a chevy but fords I have done two they worked nice. I would recommend slipping the slave into place first then running the master over. Might be easier to remove the starter for a little more room around the frame.
 
Yep, it isn't going to be easy me thinks, maybe I won't mess it up...

GM should have gone bankrupt a long time ago due to the really stupid stuff like the silly o-ring/roll pin crap for a hyd line..
 
sctrailrider said:
Yep, it isn't going to be easy me thinks, maybe I won't mess it up...

GM should have gone bankrupt a long time ago due to the really stupid stuff like the silly o-ring/roll pin crap for a hyd line..
Click to expand...

I agree. Anybody ever tried to go old school with a bell crank and scrap the slave/ hydraulics? I had an 83 s10 that was a manual bell crank setup with no slave and you had so much clutch "feel". Looking into a possible nv4500 swap and would love to ditch the slave/ hydraulics. My 2002 nv4500 was awful... no clutch "feel", just a numb pedal.

BTW Good luck, took me while to bleed the clutch in the 02.
 
Not in a gm, but I helped a friend out a hydraulic clutch on a jeep grand Cherokee.

We started to go mechanical rod, but he came up with a cable mfr online and ordered a cable for around $125 that was a sealed unit. From there it was easy angle iron mount to th3e bell housing and a little weld and die grinding the fork to hold the adjustable end of the cable. Then a piece of 1/4 steel plate about 4"x6" we had laying around to strengthen the firewall where it went through and a little piece of the angle iron to the frame for added support. Die grind cut a slot in the pedal arm above the pivot as high as we could. Pedal is a little harder than it should be, but he's a gym rat so he doesn't notice it. If it were mine I would add a 1" piece to the top of the arm for more leverage and it would be perfect.

Built it about 5-6 years ago, still works good. We did it when had just rebuilt trans and transfer case, since then an engine a few months back. He called me to let me know still same cable as we hadn't spoke since he moved to South Carolina a couple years back. ANYWAYS... I can't imagine it would be difficult in these trucks- I hate hydraulic clutches.
 
Are you thinking about one like this

http://ramclutches.com/Products/street_hyd_release_bearing.htm

I think slimshady found a metal master out of a medium duty truck that fit ok. I think I remember something back on the place forum. Might want to private msg him.

I don't know if Ram clutches or someone else makes an adapter for the roll pin lock on our plastic dinky master cylinders. OR if they have a suggestion for a better master cylinder that can fit.

I bench bled my brakes master cylinder and I think you could do that to help make it easier if you ever do a regular unit again. I don't know but think one reason it is so hard to bleed is the tiny hole in the reservoir to get fluid into the piston area. I kinda suspect / guess the reservoir is just for make up fluid if some weeps past seals. I haven't had to add to mine in a long time and don't see much of any level change variation in relation to clutch pedal.

I had a '78 truck with bellcrank and don't have fond memories of it. It broke a few times and had to have it welded. It was a SOB to push and you could see the body deflect up. I did not know much back then (only a little more now) and it could have been mostly due to a worn out clutch fork and ball pivot.
 
what brand of parts are you using? nowadays that could be the main issue.

I personally prefer the hyd. clutch, no linkage to rust, bind, break, need greased, etc.

granted the cause is a warped clutch disc, but the mech. clutch linkage transmits alot of annoying vibration to the pedal. you have to wedge your leg up against it to keep it from rattling in the old 85 6.2L 4spd service truck.

I am lucky to still be running the original system in all of my trucks, I am afraid I will have the same feelings about hyd. clutches if I have to replace anything.

I really need to flush the system completely, right now I am just sucking the old fluid out with a turkey baster, wiping it clean, and re-filling.
 
Had a napa master fail in a week same as OP.

Ordered a delco master and slave and dorman line from Rock Auto and installed them with no problems-master was identical in appearance and box it came in as the napa.

Seems it was best to replace everything as a unit.
 
My 96 had the integral slave/release bearing,when bleeding I clamp the slave closed to create maximum pressure/resistance and make sure that the air is pressurized enough to be forced out with bleeder held in the highest possible position.
 
Will L. said:
Not in a gm, but I helped a friend out a hydraulic clutch on a jeep grand Cherokee.

We started to go mechanical rod, but he came up with a cable mfr online and ordered a cable for around $125 that was a sealed unit. From there it was easy angle iron mount to th3e bell housing and a little weld and die grinding the fork to hold the adjustable end of the cable. Then a piece of 1/4 steel plate about 4"x6" we had laying around to strengthen the firewall where it went through and a little piece of the angle iron to the frame for added support. Die grind cut a slot in the pedal arm above the pivot as high as we could. Pedal is a little harder than it should be, but he's a gym rat so he doesn't notice it. If it were mine I would add a 1" piece to the top of the arm for more leverage and it would be perfect.

Built it about 5-6 years ago, still works good. We did it when had just rebuilt trans and transfer case, since then an engine a few months back. He called me to let me know still same cable as we hadn't spoke since he moved to South Carolina a couple years back. ANYWAYS... I can't imagine it would be difficult in these trucks- I hate hydraulic clutches.
Click to expand...

I might have to try it- I hate the hydraulic clutches! Drove some old cat equipped 80s GMC 5500&6500 SA Rear dumps with manual clutches- A bit stiff but great feel. Same reason I like manual brakes- no mushy, soft feel.
 
Truck pros catalog touts a hydraulic reverse bleeder... Pushes fluid up from the slave... Bubbles exit the master...
 
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