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Changing pitman arm

Mudbath

Old Smoky
Messages
394
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1
Location
Alberta, Canada
I had a quick look under my truck today at the pitman arm which I need to replace. Not a whole bunch of room there. It looks like I will have to take the three bolts out of the steering box to move it and hope I can then get a socket and a puller on the pitman arm. Has any one done this lately that can shed some light? Bob
 
I did pitman and idler arm a while back. My first wrench job on this truck, had a hard time finding the right socket for that one I recall. I had to take those bolts out to free up the steering box as mentioned. I used some cargo straps to hold it for me while going at it with the pitman arm, didn't work a charm but it worked. That thing sure is on tight, I was afraid my puller would go kaboom but it pulled through(no pun originally intended). Think I used 10 hours on that job and almost gave up a couple of times. But I am VERY unexperienced with a wrench so I guess most will do it WAY quicker then that!
 
I just did the idler, it was pretty bad but it came off fairy easy. The pitman is still in the box, need to find the time. Good luck on yours. Leo
 
If you have a pitman arm puller, take the three bolts lose that mount the box to the frame and that will give you just enough room to get the puller on the pitman arm. That being said I have a 4x4 2500 series, truck, I did it about seven months ago and was relived that I could get the puller in ther without taking the steering box out. :thumbsup:
 
SS is yours HD or LD? Mine is LD and it looked like I would not be able to get a socket on it as there is something an inch or two below the nut. I might pull the skid plate if the weather stays nice enough and have a better look. I could buy a puller and a socket for the price of labour anywhere. I will keep my fingers crossed that I don't have to pull the steering box bolts like thedole had too. Thanks all Bob

P.S. wish I had enough for one of your turbo kit now. Some day
 
SS is yours HD or LD? Mine is LD and it looked like I would not be able to get a socket on it as there is something an inch or two below the nut. I might pull the skid plate if the weather stays nice enough and have a better look. I could buy a puller and a socket for the price of labour anywhere. I will keep my fingers crossed that I don't have to pull the steering box bolts like thedole had too. Thanks all Bob

P.S. wish I had enough for one of your turbo kit now. Some day

My truck is an 8600 gvw truck, I was able to get the socket and an impact to drive the pitman arm puller, it can be done without taking the steering box out. Gets heavy holding that box though.
):h

The turbo is 700.00 plus shipping for the complete kit, I tried to make it a reasonable as possible, cause I know what it is like to be short on cash. Just let me know when you are ready.

Slim
 
"My truck is an 8600 gvw truck"

Yep same as mine, time will tell. Thanks again Bob. My birthday is in February if you have any turbo kits lying around. :hurray:
 
"My truck is an 8600 gvw truck"

Yep same as mine, time will tell. Thanks again Bob. My birthday is in February if you have any turbo kits lying around. :hurray:

When you are ready just pm me, I aint making much at that price.
 
Just did one a week ago, took about 3 hours. We used a big cresent wrench with a pipe on it to get the nut off. We took the bolts out of the steering box, and took the steering shaft off (at the top, by the master cylinder), than pushed the box back and up, then the puller fit perfectly behind the crossmember. But you never know, you might get lucky like my buddies dad, the arm fell right off when he took the nut off.
 
The nut is a 1 5/16". I use a wrench myself with the box end on the box and then hook my 1 1/4" onto the end of it and loosen the nut. Take the 2 tie rod ends off from the knuckles and then remove the 3 bolts that hold the idler assembly on. Then remove the 3 steering box retaining bolts and slide it back some. Then you can get a pitman arm puller on there and use an impact and get the arm off. Then you can slide the whole steering assembly out. On some of the 1500's and 2500 LD's you have to remove the 4 sway bar retaing bolts and slide it back some to get to the pitman arm with the puller. Then you can change out the pitman and idler on the work bench. I've got it down to about 45 minutes now to replace the pitman and idler arm.
 
I take the outer tie rod ends off the knuckles, then zip the 3 idler arm bracket bolts out, torch off the end of the pitman closest to the center link (It was giving me trouble, so out came the hot wrench) Then pop out the 3 bolts on the steering box, rotate 90 degrees, then the pitman arm puller on that. Impact on puller, then impact on new pitman and reassemble everything. Easy to do the center link with all new inner/outer tierod ends on the bench.
 
But you never know, you might get lucky like my buddies dad, the arm fell right off when he took the nut off.

YIKES!!!!!:confused::eek: I don't think I'd want to ride in that truck!! The pitman arm is intended to be a extremly tight fit on the steering shaft. If it fell off when the nut was removed that meant it was loose all that time and could have jummped the splines or worse stripped them out at any time going down the road. I say he was lucky that didn't happen. BTW, having done front end work for a living I learned the hard way it's almost always easier to let someone else deal with those things. Of course it could be that I just got sick of doing them so often. Dont forget to get an alignment when all is said and done and be sure to rotate tires every 5000 miles, which for me is every oil change. Also I cross the fronts when moved to the rear and move the rears straight forward. I'm wish I could remember what specs I used when these trucks came out in 88 and GM didn't include the alignment cams on the upper control arms and had to give them out for free plus the labor to install and align. Our shop was the only one in town that had a rack that could handle a DRW and/or long bed four door so I got to do a whole s&^t ton for the local dealer. Got it down to 45 mins to get the truck in, pull the upper control arms, knock out the tabs in the slots, install the cams and align it. Would take the ruck down the road and test drive it with the owner and they couldn't belive how much better it drove!!! Billed the stealer for 1.75 hours for it.:thumbsup:
 
Yeah, that truck is a farm beater, the tow hooks are bent flat up against the front bumper, and the front crossmember has a huge dent in it, I sometimes wonder what they do to that truck.
 
WARNING!!!! I have installed SEVERAL pitman arms from AUTOZONE AND other parts stores, and ALL of them since 05 have come loose on me after about 5,000 miles of driving. The new pitmans seem to be made of a different taper inside. The one on my SUB and those that I did before 05 haven't come loose, but ALL since have loosened. MAKE CERTAIN YOU KEEP AN EYE ON THE PITMAN ARM RETAINING NUT!!!!
 
I decided to get it done, too much snow here to be crawling around outside. The guy I have doing it says he has had quality problem so much lately (off shore parts) that for the time being he will only install GM OEM. He never use to but lately he has had too many others come back. My original pitman lasted for 13 years so if I get another 13 years I will be happy. Thanks all.
 
Good choice, I hate doing jobs like that on the ground also. Worth every dollar to not get soaked and cold. ):h
 
"My truck is an 8600 gvw truck"

Yep same as mine, time will tell. Thanks again Bob. My birthday is in February if you have any turbo kits lying around. :hurray:

If you're working on the same truck in your avatar, I don't think it's the same chassis as an 8600 GVW truck. I know the job is complete, but just wanted to mention this for future reference.:thumbsup:
 
If you're working on the same truck in your avatar, I don't think it's the same chassis as an 8600 GVW truck. I know the job is complete, but just wanted to mention this for future reference.:thumbsup:

Your right I was thinking of my previous truck this one is 7200 GVW (if now my memory serves me right) ):h
 
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