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Changing injectors

T-bolt clamp, so you just have to loosen the nut far enough but not too far to let go. Hit it with WD-40, PB Blaster or the like first. May want to do the same for the GPs and Injectors.
 
Well I got everything sprayed with the PB Blaster(great stuff) and got everything loose but the down pipe clamp and the turbo. So now I think it's time to pay a shop to do this job. I sure hate not being young enough to stand over an engine bay like I used to. Makes me wish I just kept the old 6.2 I had where everything was easy to get to in the bay. That truck had enough room to even hide 5 or 6 guys in there and come back across border with. (LOL) And still work on it while they are hiding in there.

John
 
jhornsby3 said:
Well I got everything sprayed with the PB Blaster(great stuff) and got everything loose but the down pipe clamp and the turbo. So now I think it's time to pay a shop to do this job. I sure hate not being young enough to stand over an engine bay like I used to. Makes me wish I just kept the old 6.2 I had where everything was easy to get to in the bay. That truck had enough room to even hide 5 or 6 guys in there and come back across border with. (LOL) And still work on it while they are hiding in there.

John
Click to expand...

I've done two downpipes. Yes, the clamp needs to be loose, and you might need to hit the thing with a soft mallet to jar it loose. If things get tough, you might need to remove the inner fender and knock or cut it off. You'll probably want to replace the downpipe if you have a factory original. They are horrible. Easiest way to put it back on is with a power ratchet. I found a 3/8" pneumatic ratchet is the way to go for the downpipe clamp. It makes things simple to take on and off. Good luck!

-Rob :)
 
got to heat up the turbo to remove it if itwas rusty like mine. make sure to keep hoses and wires protected from heat though. also get the whole turbo hot not just the bolts.
 
Well I'm happy to say that I finaly got the bad side done. It only took me 9 hours to do it. Yep to the inner fender off to get that pesky down tube clamp off. As well as the rest of the stuff that needs to get out of the way. A buddy came over and he helped me by rounding that back inside turbo flange nut off. That took us almost three hours to get out after his 5 minutes to round it. :eek: Funny thing about all that time to do just the one side. It only took me a half hour to put it all back together. :mad2: I have a funny feeling I'm going to be doing it all again soon as the flange to exhaust manifold joint is leaking now. I torqued them to the listed 37lbs in Chiltons and one of the injectors sounds like a 1/4-20 nut in a soup can after I started it to purge that side. I think I read somewhere that could be normal till all the air gets out but sure. But I was able to clean that ground strap at the back of the bay at the frame so that is a good thing.:D

John
 
Good job bud, keep on moving forward! Don't give up! I've found that most mechanics can do things a lot faster than I can (with my inexperience and learning curve), but no one is as careful. They can't afford to be - they are on the clock. So, just make sure you do it right, then you'll have the pleasure and satisfaction knowing that it was done with loving care.

-Rob :)
 
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