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CDR reuse?

Bernie

Bernie

Amateur Radio Operator - KJ4VOV
Messages
303
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13
Location
Fredericksburg, VA
Okay, it's that time again, time to replace the CDR on my truck, and it really bugs me how expensive these suckers are getting. Hell, it's not much more than some stamped sheet metal and a spring, so why to they list for $90+ and sell in the $40-$55 range?

Anyway, this got me to wondering a couple of things, like how to test one, and can they be cleaned and reused? It seems to me that a good cleaning with some carb cleaner and a little compressed air and the old one should be good to go, provided there's nothing obviously bad like a busted spring.

Anyone agree/disagree?
 
Wait till you need an APP or TPS. A PMD is way expensive for what you get too.
 
Bernie said:
Why would you use brake cleaner on it instead of carb cleaner in the first place?

Sent using secret methods known only to squirrels.

And selected hamsters.
Click to expand...

Do you realize that Carb cleaner is harsher than Brake cleaner?
I am not a chemist but I hang with BITOG sometimes.
Carb cleaner is the real one and more corrosive.

If you SEARCH, some people have done it with Gasoline.
Or you can use hamster juice or something like that.

Then you can create a manometer to test it.
 
Years back I wrenched at a co that had a small fleet of 6.2 & 6.5 trucks. We regularly cleaned them. Threw them in a solvent tank overnight, rinsed w/ hot water the next morning and reinstalled. Make sure it is dry before install.

When an engine was getting a lot of blow by and would suck a lot of oil, we installed a p trap into the valve cover before the cdr. It was made of metal, had media in the bottom of the trap to capture most of the oil. To hold the media, two roll pins made a x in front of and behind the media. A pepcock was installed in the bottom of the trap to drain weekly by placing a cup under it the dump back into oil fill, took about 1 minute a truck no biggie because of mandatory fluid check done at same time. Ok for on road trucks, but no good for hard angles of offloading.

We compared tare downs to letting oil burn and the valves were amazingly better with trap. A couple engines had burned valves a bit from the oil build up getting on the valves.
 
Will L. said:
Years back I wrenched at a co that had a small fleet of 6.2 & 6.5 trucks. We regularly cleaned them. Threw them in a solvent tank overnight, rinsed w/ hot water the next morning and reinstalled. Make sure it is dry before install.

When an engine was getting a lot of blow by and would suck a lot of oil, we installed a p trap into the valve cover before the cdr. It was made of metal, had media in the bottom of the trap to capture most of the oil. To hold the media, two roll pins made a x in front of and behind the media. A pepcock was installed in the bottom of the trap to drain weekly by placing a cup under it the dump back into oil fill, took about 1 minute a truck no biggie because of mandatory fluid check done at same time. Ok for on road trucks, but no good for hard angles of offloading.

We compared tare downs to letting oil burn and the valves were amazingly better with trap. A couple engines had burned valves a bit from the oil build up getting on the valves.
Click to expand...

This has me very interested as my pickup has developed a lot of blowby and is also leaking a lot of oil. I'm into fabbing things I need. I have basic welding equipment and skills. I just don't have a metal lathe or milling machine available. I've spent my whole work career in cabinetmaking with around 15 years in installing them, so I'm familiar with having to think/plan/build to make things work/look like I want.

You got any pics of the trap? Maybe a more detailed description of materials used. What did you use for the media? Steel wool?

Don
 
Iirc we had to switch valvecover sides to start.
I think steel wool? Maybe more like a sos pad. No pics. We used 1" or 3/4" electrical conduit-emt.
Better than how we did it is to use hard 90* bends by cutting pipe @ 45* turn 1 end so it makes a 90* bend.
Coming out of grommet weld on washer to sit on top of grommet to only allow same depth as cdr.
Go up 2" then 90* bend 4-5" 90* bend so it goes out passed everything.
Here you need to create an as needed angle: you want the next piece going vertical down around 5" 90* on end.
Come out 4-5" w/ 90* bend to go straight up as high as you can with future repairs still in mind- you need to be higher than the cdr originally set.
One more 90*bend at the top for 1 1/2". attach piece of hose then cdr.
drill holes for roll pins to trap media from after first bend passed the bottom of the trap towhere it starts going uphill.
Stuff in media (this would be harder with the hard 90* but possible) insert rollpins (cut to length) dab sealant on ends of rollpins.
You will need to make a mounting bracket to support it on uphill side.
Play with it, you'll get it just think "trap under the kitchen sink" and liquids don't get sucked uphill easily.
We only did this to keep D.O.T. happy they used to vent to air when blow by got to bad until a warning of a $5000 ticket was mentioned.
 
Thanks for the info!! You made a good word picture for me. I can see it in my mind.

Your trap setup is similar to a moisture trap we put into a compressed air line one place I worked. The compressor was in an unheated building and was giving us fits with too much moisture in the lines to the air guns. We ran a pipe from the compressor tank up to the ceiling, elbowed it back down to a small air tank on the floor, and then back up to the ceiling before attaching to the air line. Wasn't quite as efficient as a commercial air dryer, but it was many times cheaper.

Now to get to work finding parts to do this new project.

Don
 
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