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Bought 6.5 will crank but won’t start

Husker6.5 said:
Before firing the parts cannon at it, we need to know some things, like how many miles on the vehicle? The average life expectancy of injectors is 100K miles and an IP is 150K miles. Have you put a piece of clear hose on the IP return line to see if you're getting air into the fuel/IP (often times introduced in through the FFM when you replace the fuel filter - either the old gasket sticks inside unnoticed and when you install the new filter it 'double gaskets' and leaks air or the filter housing isn't replaced correctly and it leaks air into the fuel system) which would cause a No Start/dies after short running situation?

Do you have any previous diesel owner/driving experience? You MUST wait for the 'Wait to Start' (glowplugs) light to go out before cranking, otherwise it won't start.

Jumper the lift pump (driver's side frame under the door) to power it on and then check for sufficient fuel flow at the bleeder valve (T Valve on rubber hose near thermostat housing), should fill a pint jar in a few seconds.

A diesel only needs fuel and air to run. You need to first make sure you have an uninterrupted supply of fuel, without air in it, to the IP. After verifying that (never assume it all works and is ok), if you indeed cracked an injector line loose at an injector, cranked the motor over, and found no fuel at the injector, then the problem lies between the IP inlet and the IP's distribution head.

As mentioned above, CLEAN good grounds are critical on these 6.5s. Grounds on the back two passenger side intake manifold bolts/studs are critical both the terminal lugs and the bolts/nuts/washers must be clean and tight. Yes, pulling any codes from the OBD-I system is very helpful in diagnosing problems - either go to the help section on here or there are YouTube videos that show how to jumper the OBD-I ALDC plug under the dash and read the flashes of the Service Engine Soon (SES) light to get the code numbers - then report those numbers back to us - even if there are none.
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When I replaced the fuel filter I made sure the old gasket was off. And I do wait for the glow plugs to turn off. I will say that my glow plug light does come on but for just a short period of time. And I did jump it I got codes 14, 31, 42, 57, 58, and 62
 
14 - Engine coolant temperature high
31 - EGR cntrl/Barometric pressure Low
42 - Fuel temperature High
57 - PCM 5 Volt shorted
58 - Transmission temp high
62 - Turbo boost low

The killer code is that 57. You either have a short of the 5VDC reference voltage to all the three wire sensors to ground somewhere at/near one of the sensors, in a wiring harness/connector or your PCM is shot. It is also probably the reason for those other codes, too.
 
x3 on checking for shorted 5v reference. that could be a sensor failed internally or a wiring fault inspect all the wires around these sensors for bare frayed wires touching the engine block. Then unplug the ECT (there are two, one on the drivers side head towards the front side for the gauge, unplug the one on the t-stat crossover housing up by the IP) unplug the boost solenoid, and the EGR solenoid. both solenoids are mounted on the drivers side of the intake by the glow plug controller. the fuel temp sensor I am not sure if it's located on the IP or in the FFM. the harness for the FFM gets hot and oily being down in the valley of the engine. that harness could be to culptit get you a volt meter and probe black lead to ground and red lead to the plug on any of the three sensors. one of the pins from each connector should read 5 volts. you might have to cycle the key off and back on, not sure if the PCM will shut down the 5v when a short is detected. if you have 5 volts, plug them back in one by one while watching the meter.
 
@Glosserj letting us know vehicle specifics helps tremendously in diagnosis. Pulling codes is the first step. Now we know we're chasing an electrical gremlin and don't have to waste time (for now) on fueling issues. With the 5VDC reference voltage issue, no commands will be sent to the IP, the glow plugs will short-cycle, and you'll have your no-start issues.
 
ak diesel driver said:
I'd be checking the FFM wiring pretty close they like to fray right where they come out
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AND @Glosserj just replaced the fuel filter, so there's that possible contribution. Also, if you find one bad plug/wire - keep on looking at all the rest, trust us, especially with wiring issues. Other places is the Crank Position Sensor - down low on front of engine over the harmonic balancer on the driver side and hard to get to, check its wires/plug.
 
Start with those leads at the FFM, as that was the last thing you were working on. Also, is/was there any signs of mouse damage/infestation? Just curious as they can do considerable hidden damage to wiring looms.
 
I would start looking for wire loom/harness damage, gnawing marks, turd/urine trails. Remember, mice can fit through a ¼" diameter hole. Also, for some strange reason, they also like to nest in airfilter boxes and ducting, too.
 
Husker6.5 said:
I would start looking for wire loom/harness damage, gnawing marks, turd/urine trails. Remember, mice can fit through a ¼" diameter hole. Also, for some strange reason, they also like to nest in airfilter boxes and ducting, too.
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My sister has always lived in the country, lots of mice in old barns and such. She says a mouse can fit through a crack as wide as a quarter is thick. If thats true I know knottt but she is like a perfesional mouse trapper and tracks and plugs holes where ever they can get in.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Just FYI, if you didn't pull the old PMD off the IP and transfer the resistor in the plug to the new PMD, that can also be a problem. if the PCM hasn't had power in a while, it may have lost it's memory on the engine. the PCM looks for that resistor every 50 key cycles or so. when it's not there and it looks for it, I have heard of it giving a no start condition.
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I’m wondering if a missing resistor in the PMD plug is causing the no-start in our 1994 Suburban?
 
Big T said:
I’m wondering if a missing resistor in the PMD plug is causing the no-start in our 1994 Suburban?
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it's possible, try pulling codes and see if one shows up for a missing resistor. in the mean time you might consider ordering the dorman kit to have on hand. I installed mine in the female end of the extension harness by the IP. this way I would never have to worry about it again.
 
Well I got it to start and stay running runs great. You guys was right it was a short in the 5v system I know what like it is I’m not exactly sure what it goes to yet I have to take a few things off to follow it but atleast I know what like it is. And I did clean up a bad ground. Still got a little work to do and actually fix it but I do know the culprit of the issue. Thanks to all you guys I wouldn’t be able to figure it out with out you!
 
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