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Bolt in disc brake and 3.73 conversion?

If the spring blocks are the same spacing I don't see a problem. The only other thing is the drive shaft length may have to be changed if the pinion yoke is further back or forward.
 
Yeah, a truck with a dead engine could be had for that price if you're patient.
 
its a different style pinion support yoke on the newer axles. you might me able to pull the yoke off and put your old one on.pinion should be the same
 
I would like to note, for you guys, that those are AAM 1150 axles. That is, they are 14 bolt full floaters, they're the biggest one with the 11.5" ring gear, as opposed to the 10.5" ones in your trucks.
 
Find one out of a gas truck, 01 and up 3/4 ton and use that. It's the same old 14bolt axle we use with the disc brakes and parking brakes though.
This is what I used in my 98
 
Find one out of a gas truck, 01 and up 3/4 ton and use that. It's the same old 14bolt axle we use with the disc brakes and parking brakes though.
This is what I used in my 98

I want one for my '83. For that very reason; it's a 10.5" (lots and lots of parts available, including a Detroit), and it has factory disc + parking.
 
I want one for my '83. For that very reason; it's a 10.5" (lots and lots of parts available, including a Detroit), and it has factory disc + parking.

I have the 14 bolt full floater with 10.5 Ring gear and limited slip. I want one for my 96 but will it work with the Factory Parking Brake Cables as I just replace ALL of them?
 
Did it just bolt up? Are all the spacing and brackets the same?

No the spring pads were off. I bought new ones for 50 bucks and welded them on. The axle is 3 inches wider overall so it also corrects the rear track width these style trucks have. It matches my front much better now
 
How tough do you think it would be to get one with 3.42 gears? Where did you get yours and what would be a reasonable price, in your opinion?
 
How tough do you think it would be to get one with 3.42 gears? Where did you get yours and what would be a reasonable price, in your opinion?

You won't find one out of a newer truck with those gears in it factory.
I paid $500 for mine as it's a low mileage axle. I regeared it and added an ARB air locker to it so the cost goes up the more you do to it.
There are disc brake kits out there but the brakes don't compare to the newer trucks brake so I think it's worth the money.
 
Joey, I gather your newer 10.5 has the little parking brake shoes inside the rotor step?

My truck's a 5 spd, so having a parking brake that works well is important. Also like the idea the hubs on these late model 10.5's are wider, to better match the track width of the 9.25 4x4 front ends.

Do the late model 10.5's still use the same U-joint? Was thinking 1350 series, but can't recall for certain. Think the 11.5 axles went to bigger 1410 series U-joints.

Will have to keep an eye out for one of these when hunting the salvage yards. If one can be found for reasonable $, looks like you wind up w/ a notably better rear brake setup.
 
I would love for us as a group to identify the exact model, year for the easiest and best upgrade. I'm with Smithville, parking brake is critical, even though I have automatic, it's still a super safety feature.
 
You won't find one out of a newer truck with those gears in it factory.
I paid $500 for mine as it's a low mileage axle. I regeared it and added an ARB air locker to it so the cost goes up the more you do to it.
There are disc brake kits out there but the brakes don't compare to the newer trucks brake so I think it's worth the money.

I hate to keep asking you questions, Joey, but how much did it cost to install the gearset?
 
Joey, I gather your newer 10.5 has the little parking brake shoes inside the rotor step?

My truck's a 5 spd, so having a parking brake that works well is important. Also like the idea the hubs on these late model 10.5's are wider, to better match the track width of the 9.25 4x4 front ends.

Do the late model 10.5's still use the same U-joint? Was thinking 1350 series, but can't recall for certain. Think the 11.5 axles went to bigger 1410 series U-joints.

Will have to keep an eye out for one of these when hunting the salvage yards. If one can be found for reasonable $, looks like you wind up w/ a notably better rear brake setup.

They run a 1410 u joint on them from the factory but the 1350 yoke works on them. I kept the 1410 yoke as I plan on a 2 piece steel shaft with a cv joint. I have a slip yoke eliminator kit for the t case to install at some point. For now I run a combo joint, 1350 on one side 1410 on the other.
 
I hate to keep asking you questions, Joey, but how much did it cost to install the gearset?

I paid about 500 to have them installed. They had to install the ARB at the same time and it adds to the cost vs just doing gears. I use Mitchell Drivetrain for anything gear related as he does excellent work and has done a few other axles for me over the years.
 
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