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best replacement headgaskets for 6.5 turbo diesel

94 k3500 nick

94 k3500 nick

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wondering if anyone would know what would be the best replacement headgaskets for a 6.5 turbo diesel.
i would like something .10 thicker than stock or if there is something better.
i am going to be doing a turbo swap,arp headstuds and a few other things as i clean up a refresh this old motor and just want to do it once and not worry if i push the motor hard.
Fel-pro a good choice?

please let me know what you know and think any suggestions too thank you
 
Here is a comparison between a Felpro 9521PT +.010, and a cheap head gasket. In the pics below is also a blown cheap head gasket. The place where the gasket is blown is the most common spot on our 6.5's, and as you can see the Felpro gasket has an extra layer of steel in that spot for strengthening the gasket in that area.

Matt

You'll have to click on the thumbnail before you can see what I'm talking about.
 

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When installing you arp studs make sure to use a good amount of thread sealant. There is also some folks on here that have drilled the heads to use o-rings. But you really don't want to be re-doing your heads because you have coolant in your oil.
 
devildogadam said:
When installing you arp studs make sure to use a good amount of thread sealant. There is also some folks on here that have drilled the heads to use o-rings. But you really don't want to be re-doing your heads because you have coolant in your oil.
Click to expand...

is there any issues with the arp headstuds themselves on these motors then? or something else?
 
No. None at all. I didn't know either when I purchased mine.

The stock tty bolts come with thread sealant on them so none is needed when installing them.

The ARPs don't come with any sealant, and because a few of the holes are threaded into coolant ports you can get a leak around the bolts.

Do not be afraid or put off by this. There is no problem. It is just a lack of knowledge, not on your part, but the vendors don't tell you this. And I am pretty sure the installation instructions don't either. Only from unfortunate experiences from some of the members on here do we now know. It should be common sense that a bolt going into a coolant port needs sealant, but most of us get caught off guard by looking at those sexy head studs and forget to think about the basics.
 
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devildogadam said:
No. None at all. I didn't know either when I purchased mine.

The stock tty bolts come with thread sealant on them so none is needed when installing them.

The ARPs don't come with any sealant, and because a few of the holes are threaded into coolant ports you can get a leak around the bolts.

Do not be afraid or put off by this. There is no problem. It is just a lack of knowledge, not on your part, but the vendors don't tell you this. And I am pretty sure the installation instructions don't either. Only from unfortunate experiences from some of the members on here do we now know. It should be common sense that a bolt going into a coolant port needs sealant, but most of us get caught off guard by looking at those sexy head studs and forget to think about the basics.
Click to expand...

the instructions dont say any to do that or about it but ok if thats true then i will apply that to when i do them thanks
 
For the red ones, only reason to take them out is block goes junk, right? Revert to rule #2- Fire is good! In that case once the engine is on the stand and stripped down a bit, fire up the torch and heat the block near the studs, just don put flame on the studs and you can't go wrong.
 
Oh yeah, I forgot you all have that option. I can take of valve covers in place bbbbearly with lots-o-swearing. My hummer is hands down hardest engine swap I ever done. In the fleets for the pickups we just yanked the engine, dropped in the standby, and rebuilt the "out" engine as the next standby. Kinda surprised WarWagon doesn't have a standby engine (giggle giggle).

On all the studs I put in engines I always used blue Loctite, be they head, main, anything except exhaust- that earns antiseize.
 
Will L. said:
Oh yeah, I forgot you all have that option. I can take of valve covers in place bbbbearly with lots-o-swearing. My hummer is hands down hardest engine swap I ever done. In the fleets for the pickups we just yanked the engine, dropped in the standby, and rebuilt the "out" engine as the next standby. Kinda surprised WarWagon doesn't have a standby engine (giggle giggle).

On all the studs I put in engines I always used blue Loctite, be they head, main, anything except exhaust- that earns antiseize.
Click to expand...

Yep, I'm in the process of finishing that exact job up, right now. http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/running-too-much-boost-and-blew-a-head-gasket.43893/page-5

Matt
 
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