Battery ponderings

[Sparky8370]

I've not been real impressed with my NAPA batteries. For my gasser I bought one from Autozone - I think it was the DL Gold - and it did well. I don't know how many of you are Consumer Reports readers but the list certain DuraLast Gold batteries as good buys. If I have the money when the time comes about I think I'm going to go with a couple of the sears diehards next time though.

As for the one big battery, that might be great for starting but I would venture to guess you may start burning up alternators. Keep in mind that the beast will require charging and the standard alternator may not beable to do the job real well.

Just my 2 cents...

As long as the amp-hour doesn't exceed the sum of the two originals, it won't make a difference. But one advantage of having two batteries is that of one seems to be draining the other, you can disconnect the parasitic one and run on just one battery for a while (As long as it's not too cold out)

 

[Turbine Doc]

for what you pay for 1 big batt you can have 2 good batts and keep with OEM design, and if dead on road std batt easier to replace than a big industrial type batt; ever tote a big single batt, not for the weak, my Ford 535 uses a single "big un", and my hunting camp uses (4) 8Ds in it's solar battery bank, I'm glad those are gel cell and last 10-15 years in solar system use IIRC 140# each, not sumthin you wanna tote often or far.

Then how much real estate to locate a big batt do you have, and you'll need to do some wiring mods, IMO get a good set, last set of Duralast Gold I had lasted 5 years still had some prorate warr on the pair, so I really only had to pay for one new, have a set of Walmarts in the Burb, been there 2 years haven't let me down yet. IIRC only a couple of batt mfrs out there regardless who's brand is on outside, it's same batt.

Replace in pairs, same mfg date if possible, weak one with cause early death of a new one, keep all connections, and ALL body/engine gnds tight & clean and batts will last. Do the bolt/stud clamping mod as recommended earlier as well.

Poor charging from bad connections will kill a $200 batt as fast as it will kill a $100 one, most auto part places run free alternator checks as well, since it's free mite as well have it checked same time you do the batts.

To help me keep an eye on state of my batts I bought battery tester seen this thread http://www.dieseltowingresource.com/showthread.php?t=2868 from harbor freight go on sale often for <$20 good tool when troubleshooting no start issues as well, IMO every 6.5er needs one, also if you have more than 1 car in your stable a handy tool as well,

All newer vee-hicles have puters in them that want full juice, drop the juice to em even a little and they begin to sit in a corner & pout, ever had a puter that pouts, even the scanner you hook up knows its pouting cause the "I'm broke here codes" a pouting puter puts out on display; don't make any sense.

Say this fast after a nite on the town, "My pouting puter performs poorly, engine purrs pathetically".

 

[Turbine Doc]

$14 rite now use phrase load tester in search string at HF

 

[TurboTahoe]

I also recommend pulling ALL FUSES and cleaning both sockets and legs of fuses. Trust me, I spent nearly $500 replacing things before discovering extreme oxidation on the fuses in the engine bay. As the Turbine Doc says, these things run on a 'puter, and it is good to keep the juice flowing cleanly. Do search for "Melange of DTC codes" to see what I mean.

Rob

 

[Acesneights1]

I also used Die Hards in my Oil Trucks and they always started in very cold temps. The one had a 6V92T which was a whore in cold weather. I bought a 49$ Die Hard hardly any bigger than a jap car batt and it starts my Skid Steer no problem and that's got a Deutz in it.

 

[Holyoak]

I've considered one of those solar chargeres that sit on the dash. I was thinking the one that had the auto cut off to keep from overcharging the battery. Since this seems to fit the topic, what is the general consensus on these? Good, bad, unknown? They seem like they might be a benefit to a diesel engine...

 

[Acesneights1]

Never used one but unless your truck is sitting for long periods of time can't see the need for it. Two good batteries should be more than enough.

 

[Bullseye240]

I agree with replacing both Bats at the sme time. Someone mentioned they had bad luck with Optimia's. I myself have had nothing but great luck with my yellow tops in my Blazer. I had to replace the alt shortly after installing the Optimas and the parts store gave me the wrong alt which effectively made an idler pully out of it. Well the yellow tops lasted for a month and a half of daily driving around town and a 125 mile one way drive 2 to 4 times a week before they just wouldn't crank it anymore. Fixed the problem and the parts store ran the Optimas through their electronic tester/reconditioner and they passed with flying colors. BTW 4L80's hate voltage below 12.5 and won't let you have overdrive. Also I have seen some talk about the battery cable mod which as I can see consist of replacing the factory bolts with hex bolts and still using the stock wires?!?!? Stock bat cables are the first thing I replace on my vehicles. I use 4/O welding cable or bigger and solder lugs on covered with high quality heat shrink with glue to seal the cable and attach with 3/8ths studs and nuts for best possible connection. Also a side effect of the optimas is no corrossion on the cables due to no acid leaks because they are Sealed Lead Acid(SLA) batteries and they are vibration resistant and can be mounted in any position (try doing that with any liquid acid battery!). I also replaced the factory alt charge wire with one I made about twice the guage of the original and included a fusible link wire into the design. Both my batteries ground directly to the block and have smaller wires going to the body for grounds. I have had no ground issues on my truck. I also made up a trick set of jumper cables so I don't have to open the hood to jump someone else.

 

[GM Guy]

Are the "sealed" AC delcos actually sealed, or will they leak too?

Will someone clarify the issues people have been having with optimas? (all colors please)

I am needing a battery before winter, i am looking for something that is dual post (for easy jumping, side for truck, top for jumpers) as big as possible (aka still fits in factory tray) will not eat my battery tray. (just no acid leaks, needs to be sealed) price is non- issue, as long as it lasts.

The two candidates are AC delco and Optima Red top. i am leaning toward the 7 year AC delco, as long as there is no gassing/leaking, all that acid/acid fumes needs to stay in the battery! any advice appreciated, thanks!

 

[Pillow]

>I also replaced the factory alt charge wire with one I made about twice the guage of the original <

Yup on that! I replaced the stock joke of a wire with 4 gauge.

... I use the Wally World Everstart Maxx batteries. So far so good after 2 years on both trucks. IRRC they are made by the same manufacturer as the Diehard from Sears.

 

[packratt]

I also replaced the factory alt charge wire with one I made about twice the guage of the original and included a fusible link wire into the design.

What did you use for the fusible link and how did you make the connection to the cable?

 

[Bullseye240]

I got the fusible link at the parts store. They are usually blue in color and pretty common at an O'rielleys, Napa and Auto Zone. I really reccomend the yellow tops for a diesel because of the reserve capacity for the glow plugs. I have had nothing but good luck with mine and I see a lot of them used in the Navy everyday. We use all three types and they work great.

 

[TurboTahoe]

What did you use for the fusible link and how did you make the connection to the cable?

I put in a 4 ga wire from the alternator to the battery on the Tahoe. I purchased a circuit breaker for it, but haven't installed it yet. Right now, it is just hooked up to the battery straight. I admit this is a little dangerous, but only if someone or something shorts the cable.

Rob

 

[Bullseye240]

I put in a 4 ga wire from the alternator to the battery on the Tahoe. I purchased a circuit breaker for it, but haven't installed it yet. Right now, it is just hooked up to the battery straight. I admit this is a little dangerous, but only if someone or something shorts the cable.

Rob

My problem is the "someone" usually ends up being me!:mad2::thumbsup:

 

[Bullseye240]

Oh yeah I made my battery cables myself and simplly soldered the cables and wires into the lug crimped the fusible link wire to the wire and added a crimp on lug for the size of the fusible link, then covered it with heat shrink tubing.

 

[94K30]

What did you use for the fusible link and how did you make the connection to the cable?

I used a wafer fuse in a wafer fuse holder mounted on the fender well by the driver's side battery when I upgraded alternator ( to 160 amp) and wire ( to 4 ga). I used solder on ends ( gold plated) at the ends of the wires. all these parts are available from an online electronics supplier like Parts Express....

 

[Bullseye240]

94K30, is that hood from LMC?