• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Battery - Largest Cranking Amps

Dave01 said:
Like I said in an earlier post, and Doc confirmed, the Duralasts are 800 cca, not 1000. If you know of a part number for a 1000 cca version I'd love to have it!

Matt, I hadn't heard that before about less life with more cca. I want the power for cold starts so I'm not going to worry about it too much.
Click to expand...

Its something to do with the size of the case. Unless you go 'big rig' large type.

They have to put more plates to get the higher rating, and there is just more there to go wrong. I don't know all the details.

That is why you are always recommended to get what the vehicle needs. And why there is a limit of usually 1000ca or cca.

Don't get me wrong. More the merrier especially when it comes to cranking power, but for every upside, there is a downside. Don't let my input be a deciding factor in your battery choice by any means. I don't know the details, nor can I explain my reasoning well. Perhaps its something to do with the cell walls being thinner, or something. I don't remember exactly, but with more plates there is more chance of failure in between them.
 
The starting system is only as good as it's weakest link. Cables,connections,and starter motor are just as important. The biggest battery won't crank over without the rest being good. I've had good luck with the walmart Maxx batteries.
 
I bought Caterpillar batteries for 80 bucks each with 900 CCA at 0F and they are awesome. Side terminals are built into the battery along with nice thick lead top terminals.
 
Are you guys recommending the Duralasts shopping at a different Autozone than me or what? I used to buy them all the time when I was young and poor, and never had a bit of luck with them. Only bought them because they were cheap, and only used them again because they were replaced under warranty. Same with Wal-Mart batteries, I believe they were both recycled batteries. When I was towing I went on countless no-start calls where they had a Neverstart under the hood.
I never did have a top of the line Duralast or Walmart Maxx battery though, I had and witnessed all those problems with the cheapie small car batteries. Do you suppose their top-line battery is something far better, perhaps just a rebadged Interstate or Exide? I do know one guy who swears by the WM Maxx.
I also went through a stage where I replaced a bunch of starters and alternators with Duralast remans, had to keep getting them warranteed. Finally stopped buying anything electrical unless it says ACDelco on it. I had ACDelco batteries for a few years, but they weren't matched and one eventually died and brought the other with it, so I bought two Diehard Silvers, didn't have enough money for Golds that day. I had switched to Golds in my old plowtrucks and was really impressed with them. These Silver series haven't been as impressive, I have killed them a few times now. I don't think it was necessarily the batteries fault, I think it was due to constantly loosening battery connections. Also run it out of fuel a couple times, and cranking it up again will usually kill them. If they die again I think I'll just replace them, even though it's only been about 3 years. Don't know what I'll get next, probably Diehard Golds.
We run Optimas in all our "company cars" which have a tremendous amount of onboard electronics and lighting, no problems with them but I have heard that they don't come back as well after being killed. A tech told me they will not keep coming back as many times from dead as a regular battery will. As many times as I've killed these Diehards I have now, I'm sure I've shortened the life of them quite a bit. I'll probably need to do something this season, plowing takes a whole lot out of them and I can't have any down time because of a stupid dead battery.
 
Detroit Dan said:
Are you guys recommending the Duralasts shopping at a different Autozone than me or what? I used to buy them all the time when I was young and poor, and never had a bit of luck with them. Only bought them because they were cheap, and only used them again because they were replaced under warranty.
Click to expand...

There 2 or 3 different grades of Durlast products. The Gold line is the most expensive but it is their best quality.
 
34-78_Front.jpg


Part Number: 34/78 (9004-003)
RedTop®; Battery; BOXED; Group 34/78; Cold Crank Amps 800; Crank Amps 1000; Reserve Capacity 100; Ampere Hour 50; Dual Terminal; L-10 in.; W-6 7/8 in.; H-7 13/16 in.;

5fe5c626d4e577f50337e7329c67951e.jpg

780e5af66a74415721347b6293a0bf97.jpg


Capacity (c/20 rate) 75
Cold Cranking Amps 900
Cranking Amps 1125
Post Type Dual SAE & 5/16 Stainless Stud
Reserve Capacity 155
 
they are all ultimas and the first specs is for the red top
and the second specs for blue or yellow top.
 
Last edited:
yeah it has a little bit different cycle characteristics, but the 6.5 is also a marine engine some would say ;-)

after i fist put an optima gel battery in a car many years ago,
i will never put anything different in a vehicle that needs batteries.
the only reason i still run the i believe interstates in my kommadofahrzeug is because they have not gone bad yet.
as soon as they do I will replace them with Ultimas.

on a project car I would do braille, odyssey hawker or something like that:

B106wStandardSM.jpg


B106C
6.6lbs/3.2kg
527 Pulse Cranking Amps*
10 Amp/Hr Reserve
5.8” x 3.4” x 4.2”
Left Side Positive
MSRP $219.99

(oh and yes that is a carbon fiber battery!)

hmm, looking at how small these are one could save a lot of room if he was to spec out one of these for the 6.5....

odyssey makes one that has 1300 CCA !

model number : PC1800-FT

http://www.odysseyfactory.com/battspecs.html

they also have some that do over 2000 PCA...
Q. What is the pulse cranking amp rating?

A. Unlike CCA and MCA the pulse cranking ampere (PCA) rating does not have an "official" definition; however, we believe that for true engine start purposes, a 30 second discharge is unrealistic. With that in mind, the PCA is a very short duration (typically about 3 seconds) high rate discharge. Because the discharge is for such a short time, it is more like a pulse.
 
I either install Optimas or the NAPA spiral wound barreries.
Either 800 or 1000 CCA.

The NAPA batteries have been great.
I had DaHoooley down all summer from late april until near Sept and the batteries did not even need a charge after sitting all that time.

Put the charger on them and they tuned off in less than 30 seconds at FULL CHARGE.

The spiral wounds or Optimas don't leak all over and corode the tray and rot the corner if the truck off.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top