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Banks Sidewinder vs GM 6.5 turbo setup

I'd say see if you can find a used Banks Sidewinder system. There was one for sale on DP for i think $700 for everything including the manifolds needed. That's still quite high in price but the Banks turbo always out-performed the comparable GM-x turbo in the testing i heard. I"m guessing they were testing the banks system against the GM-3's and such of the early 6.5s.

There's always the ATS turbo system as well.

You said your CUCV does not have A/C so you can fit the GM-x setup in. If you had A/C then you'd have to go with a banks system which does not mount where the A/C box is sitting. I've never seen an ATS system in person so i can't say for sure how those mount.
 
well that's what I was thinking. down the line if I decide to put a/c in the banks would be better. Can the banks be used with an I/C ?
 
Acesneights1 said:
well that's what I was thinking. down the line if I decide to put a/c in the banks would be better. Can the banks be used with an I/C ?
Click to expand...

I don't see why not. The turbo is located near the passenger side battery IIRC, so plumbing in an IC wouldn't be too difficult.
 
I would go with the the 6.5 setup if it were me, that leaves your options more open for other turbo upgrades, correct me if I am wrong but the banks turbo has a different mounting flange than the GM-Xs, doesn't it?

Not to mention the fact that it is cheaper.
 
yeah that is stuff to consider. Not to mention the guy from Banks said the setup may interfere with the extra alt but I will probably convert the truck to 12v at some point anyway. I gotta go look at a 91 Blazer with a 6.2(if it's still there). Need a spare when I sell the Lemon.
 
Acesneights1 said:
yeah that is stuff to consider. Not to mention the guy from Banks said the setup may interfere with the extra alt but I will probably convert the truck to 12v at some point anyway. I gotta go look at a 91 Blazer with a 6.2(if it's still there). Need a spare when I sell the Lemon.
Click to expand...

not to fuel your addiction but i know a guy in oxford that has a rotted 1982(red block) 6.2 TH350/np208(i think) blazer for sale. last i spoke to him he still had it. he wanted $300. This is the same guy i bought mine from. Just the red block alone should be worth the $300. I wish i had the room or i would've bought it and parted it out already.
 
Thanks but if anything I'd grab the one in RI. It was decent. Only needed an IP. After working on my Louisville for the past month, welding is getting old fast. Got me a nice new mig welder though. Got a Lincoln 140c.
 
Just coming from someone who has done (i'm just about finished) doing the 6.5 turbo on a obs gm truck, Go with the banks. I could have done this setup for much less, but i wanted the power increase to be as close to banks as possible. With this in mind, i made my crossover pipe out of 2.5 inch mandrel bent pipe and made my dp out of 3 inch mandrel bent. I made a custom tail housing for the turbo to take the nasty 90 degree bend out of the gm1. Built my own custom heater box and a bunch more shit. Did i do it cheaper than the 2100 for the brand new banks kit.....yes. Not much cheaper and i'm still not sure whether the power increase is gonna be comparable. That combined with the fact that my truck has been torn apart for nearly 2 months would have made the banks worth it. Missy has a banks setup for sale if thats what you decide on.
 
Just sold a banks kit on Flea bay for $800 complete.

I prefer the Banks kit for the 6.2. They flowed real good and made more power than the GM stuff did.

MGW
 
Yeah unfortunatley I posted this before I knew about Missys then wasn't paying attention and missed the auction. Duhhh. I don't think the heater box is an issue for me as the CUCV has no a/c but the battery will be I think no ,matter which I do. I'm really on the fence about keeping the 24v vs 12v. I do like the way it cranks over. I don't think the Banks or the GM will fit unless I ove that batery and lose the extra alt. Banks told me the r/s alt may interfere. It won't with the gm one but the battery will. THe battery is huge so relocating it to drivers side would be impossible unless i switch to smaller batts.
Since I missed Missy' setup I think I'll chill for awhile on the turbo. I am not going to cut up the 94 as of now since i think I fixed it. I have spare 6.5 manifolds anyway so all I would need in that regard is turbo and also there is no way a DP is fitting under there without a bodylift. Once I do the suspension lift and body lift, it will make using the gm setup much easier. Random, I have questions though. Did you have any clearnace issues with the GM manifold to theangle of the injectors ? I'm tol some 6.2s have the injectors angled in a way that you wold have to swap the heads to 6.5 ? I was going to compare my 6.5 to my 6.2 and see. I had though All I needed to do was put short body injectors in to clear it.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Random, I have questions though. Did you have any clearnace issues with the GM manifold to theangle of the injectors ? I'm tol some 6.2s have the injectors angled in a way that you wold have to swap the heads to 6.5 ? I was going to compare my 6.5 to my 6.2 and see. I had though All I needed to do was put short body injectors in to clear it.
Click to expand...

Well, it's hard to figure out how much is bullshit and how much is truth when it comes to doing a 6.2t with gm parts. It's surprisingly hard to find people who have done it.
I have seen pictures of injectors off both engines and the 6.5 injectors are quite a bit shorter. The angle of the 6.2 injector boss in the head seems to be perpendicular. The short answer is yes. The manifold will hit the top of the injector without changing something. Instead of chasing white rabbbits down bunny holes trying to figure out fact from fiction, I went with something i knew would work. I bought a turbo manifold spacer from a guy at the place.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2677537&postcount=21
It's a very nice quality laser cut piece. You should talk to 4320 over at the place. He just did a turbo on his truck. He might have clearanced his a different way.
You would have to loose that sasquatch battery that comes on a cucv to run a banks, but the standard battery trays will mount up fine. You could hook 2 batteries in series to keep the 24 volt if you want to. The extra alternator shouldn't be an issue because the standard alternator mounts on the passenger side anyway. The extra one is the one mounted on the drivers side bank where the ac compressor would normally sit on a civillian truck.
 
well, You know what I have the CUCV outside right now sitting next to a 94 K1500 6.5td. I'll get out mr Tape and see. I think earlier 6.2 heads the injector angles were the biggest issue but like you said much hearsay. If changing to short injectors will solve thw clearance problem, I'd rather do that then screw around with spacers. I wonder if dennis could make a custom ATT without the 90 bend ? although that install was on a Landcruncher so I don't think the 90 is an issue on the cucv besides a body lift will free up some space. The 6.5 crossover doesn't look to me like it will clear the diff in stock form but after my lift should be nno prob but I'm gong to have that bent up instead of using the stock 6.5 one so I can get the most clearance as possible.
 
I think in the end, I have a set of 6.5TD manifold sitting on the bench. Just gonna have to try it although I sure wish someone local had a 6.2 sittin on the floor to try instead.
 
well, Piss in my cheerios. My cucv has the early heads it appears. INjectors are angled out not close to valve cover like my 94. I'm not swapping heads so I guess I'll be looking for a banks setup. Damn and I just missed MGW.s F..;..
 
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