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Back with a 6.2

Looks good!

What did you give for it if you don't mind me asking?

I found one w/ a 6.2 for $5k and a k30 w/ 350 for $1500. I'm thinking of just 6.2 swap in the gasser.
 
Looks good!

What did you give for it if you don't mind me asking?

I found one w/ a 6.2 for $5k and a k30 w/ 350 for $1500. I'm thinking of just 6.2 swap in the gasser.

I gave $2300 for it. Shot trans. Rockers and cab corners are rotten.

It's good to be back here, I always liked this forum. Good, intelligent people here.
 
Got the trans rebuilt, built up too. Stronger clutches, widened main band, stronger pump, converter, etc.. $980 for the whole rebuild.

Truck was real slow to crank when I bought it. Batteries were in bad shape and the cables were in even worse shape. Put on all new cables from Bruce at PTwiring, new batteries, cleaned all the grounds up. Truck still was slow to crank. Then I remembered the guy I bought it from said he "rebuilt" the starter. So I checked voltage at starter when cranking, it had 10 volts, so I knew the starter was bad. Replaced it and now it cranks so fast I barely even have to bump the ignition.

Ordered a set of AC Delco 60G glows, I'll put them in this weekend. I think I'll do a complete compression check too while I'm at it.

I'm thinking about swapping the gears out. It has 3.08's now. I'm thinking a set of 3.73's will do a whole lot for some extra low end grunt.

Was over at the neighbors the other day, he's got a HX35 he'd sell me for cheap... I wonder...
 
I'm thinking about swapping the gears out. It has 3.08's now. I'm thinking a set of 3.73's will do a whole lot for some extra low end grunt.

Was over at the neighbors the other day, he's got a HX35 he'd sell me for cheap... I wonder...

Wait on the gears until you put the turbo on, its a whole new engine with a turbo.

Two words, DO IT! :):D
 
3.08 + 700R4 + turbo diesel torque = bad news IMO.

The 700R4 didn't like low rpm lugging and w/ 3.08's I bet there will be some unneeded stress.
 
Not saying I've had problems, my experience was a non turbo 6.2 and a 305 Chevy and had great luck.

I've heard a lot of horror stories of 700R4's not holding torque well.

I swapped my 4.8l 02gmc to 4.10's and still lost the tranny (4l60) not even towing or racing.

Honestly they are probably a decent trans but I get jumpy when people add torque in front of them.
 
They're a good transmission once the GM mistakes are fixed and replaced.

If I can source intake and exhaust manifolds cheap and a few other things I'll probably go ahead with a turbo.

If I stick to 8-10psi, should I even waste my time with ARP head studs and replacing the head gaskets? Those ARPs are expensive, I'll probably buy the turbo cheaper than the studs...

I need to replace the oil pressure sending unit. Oil pressure is all over the place. Some times it's great at 40 psi, other days it fluctuates. If it turns out its worn bearings or shot oil pump, I may hold off and pickup an optimizer to build and turbo and throw in.

Bought a good compression check tool. Hopefully I can swap the glows and check compression too this weekend. It doesn't leak oil but seems to burn some. We'll see this weekend if this 6.2 is worth throwing a turbo on or not.

These 3.08's suck. It's constantly down shifting into 3rd whenever I hit the slightest hill. Plus it has 32" tall tires which make the gearing even taller.
 
Wait till you do the compression check before making the final decision on head gaskets. If 10 psi boost is as high as you go, and no crazy fuel quantities, the old head gaskets and bolts are fine as is. If you find crappy pressures in the test, then those heads come off with of coarse new gaskets. At that time you need to figure out if it is new head bolts vs studs.

The studs are a nice added protection, but I look at them as long term $ savings. They are more$ up front, but if you know your gonna be into that engine, or any 6.2/6.5 again then the studs are a life long purchase and therefor cheaper in the long run.
 
They're a good transmission once the GM mistakes are fixed and replaced.

If I can source intake and exhaust manifolds cheap and a few other things I'll probably go ahead with a turbo.

If I stick to 8-10psi, should I even waste my time with ARP head studs and replacing the head gaskets? Those ARPs are expensive, I'll probably buy the turbo cheaper than the studs...

I need to replace the oil pressure sending unit. Oil pressure is all over the place. Some times it's great at 40 psi, other days it fluctuates. If it turns out its worn bearings or shot oil pump, I may hold off and pickup an optimizer to build and turbo and throw in.

Bought a good compression check tool. Hopefully I can swap the glows and check compression too this weekend. It doesn't leak oil but seems to burn some. We'll see this weekend if this 6.2 is worth throwing a turbo on or not.

These 3.08's suck. It's constantly down shifting into 3rd whenever I hit the slightest hill. Plus it has 32" tall tires which make the gearing even taller.

If sticking with 8-10 psi, then bolts are fine but really, are you going to keep it there? That was my initial goal but more boost is more fun, unless your running the stock turbo, and I ran mine to 22 psi, it was FUN.

If you have the engine out and your unsure of the condition, replace the head gaskets, its much easier now than with the engine in.

Oil pressure doesn't change like your saying, so its the sending unit, or verify with a mechanical gauge.

3.08's do suck but add a turbo and they are suddenly its not that bad. Due to towing and such, I plan on upgrading to 3.42's, will put me in the sweet spot, rpm wise for cruising.
 
Wait till you do the compression check before making the final decision on head gaskets. If 10 psi boost is as high as you go, and no crazy fuel quantities, the old head gaskets and bolts are fine as is. If you find crappy pressures in the test, then those heads come off with of coarse new gaskets. At that time you need to figure out if it is new head bolts vs studs.

The studs are a nice added protection, but I look at them as long term $ savings. They are more$ up front, but if you know your gonna be into that engine, or any 6.2/6.5 again then the studs are a life long purchase and therefor cheaper in the long run.

Yeah that's a good point, if and when the 6.2 goes bad and I decide to go with an optimizer, then I can just reuse those studs.

If sticking with 8-10 psi, then bolts are fine but really, are you going to keep it there? That was my initial goal but more boost is more fun, unless your running the stock turbo, and I ran mine to 22 psi, it was FUN.

If you have the engine out and your unsure of the condition, replace the head gaskets, its much easier now than with the engine in.

Oil pressure doesn't change like your saying, so its the sending unit, or verify with a mechanical gauge.

3.08's do suck but add a turbo and they are suddenly its not that bad. Due to towing and such, I plan on upgrading to 3.42's, will put me in the sweet spot, rpm wise for cruising.

I'm still on the fence about a turbo. It'd be nice to keep my A/C, never really had a truck with A/C. I'm thinking about swapping to 3.73's, then go from there. Acceleration isn't really that bad to me, I don't drive crazy anyways. It's the fact that it looses speed as soon as you hit a slight hill.

After gearing it I'll make the decision whether to turbo it, or just delete all the EGR and go with a rebuilt pump and injectors.

But at the same time, holsets sound really good...
 
I would do the turbo first. Why? What if you had a gear ratio of 5.24:1? Would that help you maintain the hill speed? You'd think so, but no. Unless 50 is your desired speed to maintain.

At a weight originally of 6,100 lbs my hummer still lost speed up hills. Now with a factory gm6 and factory injectors both with 65-70,000 miles on them and half a turn on the db2 I accelerate up the same hills weighing over 9,000 lbs. and towing a small camp trailer.

I can not stress this enough- TURBO!
 
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