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Aux fuel tank + fuel gauge

The transfer flow I have pumps fuel into the main tank by computer control. It reads out and displays the number of gal in each tank and adjusts the fuel gauge to read total of both tanks. So 42 of 84 gal is 1/2 reading. Fuel gauge is no longer really looked at as you tend to read gal left screen and know your MPG to plan the next fuel stop. I do not have to flip switches or forget to turn off a pump, close a valve, etc.

You may be able to add a pump nozzle and stop and refill the main tank.

I would check out what fuel tank builders do for safety. Also check what your laws are up there... Notice the testing the tanks go through. (I would not want to be caught dead or otherwise with a gravity feed setup.)

http://www.transferflow.com/fuel_tank_regulations.html
 
Did you abandon the electic solenoid switching valve plan?

Definitely not abandoned ... i was looking under my brothers duramax the other day that happened to have an aux tank before he purchased it and the guy used the 80's GM tank switch to gravity transfer from his aux tank into his stock tank (on a switch)... so i could set mine up that way for now until i get everything set up with dual lift pumps etc etc and then wire and plumb it as 2 seperate tanks
 
You could plumb the return fuel with a tee into the suction side of the LP. That way it wont overfill a tank.
 
That return does help keep fuel from gelling in the chilly Canadian winters. Food for thoughts.

I was thinking the same thing. Once you get the truck started, the return is warming your tank, good protection against gelling once you're running. A looped return works well in a heated veg system, but I don't think its a good idea in a normal diesel setup.
 
I don't see a need to heat diesel before the LP. The viscosity of diesel doesn't change much, doesn't get thick at colder temps until of course it decides to gel. The way I look at it is I'd like the fuel tank to get a bit of heat to avoid gelling, then it goes through the LP to the filter manager which has a small amount of heating in it, once in the engine bay heading to the IP you're all set.

I'm sure most people "up there" use some brand of anti-gel in the fuel, or buy a blend with some #1 diesel in it to avoid gel problems anyway.
 
even tho it may not be getting thicker it is forming wax crystals which can plug the filter

X2

I surmise this is why those guys that have used a gasser sock in fuel tanks get stranded in cold weather, and why there is a suction check valve on a designed for Diesel tank sock, for cooler days when fuel gets "thicker/waxier" one of the things that was critical monitoring when I was USN operating marine gas turbines on Diesel fuel was an alarm set for 60F fuel wax forming.

Our fuel controls (IP's) on engines were more sensitive plus to put anti gel additive to 621,821 gal of bulk fuel x ships in the USN fleet was a bit prohibitive so USN and other fleets using marine gas turbines opted/opts for preheat of fuel to a 120-130F deg range, and return fuel on the 20K ready service tanks would not provide enough heat to keep fuel at the optimal 120F range especially when demand per engine was 28-32 gpm when running full speed
 
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I have to poly marine tanks,to use in back of truck. Have a tee in feeler spout,with gravity feed. Have a manual shut off valve with set up to use to fill suburban and mercedes if have fuel at a good price to bring home. Also have a pump on switch to use in truck if neccessary,and to off load so can remove tanks.
Also can use pump and extra hose for generator when the lights go out.



1983 mercedes 300 TD
!994 GMC suburban 6.5 TD
2005 Chevy 2500HD 6.5
 
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