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Another broken crankshaft - I'm gonna cry.

Turbine Doc said:
where did the previous replacement crank come from, maybe the way the pic was taken but color where it was broken doesn't look rite like maybe poor cast material, cranks are tough to break, I cut a piece once with chop saw and it was tough getting through it
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It was from a place here in columbus called "Engine Rebuilders Supply".

I bought the crank, timing chain set & bearings all form them. I assumed it was "new" since it was STD size, but I suppose it could have been a used one.

As for how far the timing was advanced, I have no clue. The pump was installed at a shop. I have an automatic tranny.
 
TD think maybe it's a cousin of that crank you sliced and diced?


I do believe I would be having a talk with that shop about that high quality crank.
 
Those are my thoughts, posibly the same/similar source of origin to the one Diesel Direct "used to sell" that broke in shipment that was shipped to Ratman, and reason I bought the Scat crank, guy doing the metalurgy work on other site disappeared, & I never got results back from the metalurgy, nor the billets I cut out of the "broke crank", and the OEM crank.

How much was that crank
 
packratt said:
TD think maybe it's a cousin of that crank you sliced and diced?


I do believe I would be having a talk with that shop about that high quality crank.
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Shawn know any metalurgists, may be a court battle brewing here if as I suspect your crank is one of Chinese origin, and you got a poor casting, some Chinese stuff is good, other stuff isn't, but since it's cast also could be just bad luck you got a bad pour
 
jbsaxman said:
Utah sucks @$$, doesn't it?

God I hate it here.
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Actually, Utah is a great place to live. Our legislature does pretty well tax-wise with the large families we have here (read: small tax base). The gun laws are among the best in the nation. If it weren't for the federal govt, we wouldn't have the smog nazis. The EPA forced these inspections down our throat. I tend to like smog laws up to a point. They do a great job at cleaning up our air. ...up to a point. I think we have reached the point of diminished returns, however, and stricter smog laws aren't needed. The liquor laws are really weird, but I don't drink much anyway.

Let's not forget the mountains and the skiing. I love it here.

...but alas, this isn't what the thread is about.

About the crank... I have no experience or special knowledge, but it sure looks like a defective casting. I'm not sure to what extent I'd pursue it, but you might try calling the place where you bought it and see what they say. Have you ever used starter fluid of any kind, including WD40?
 
Turbine Doc said:
Shawn know any metalurgists, may be a court battle brewing here if as I suspect your crank is one of Chinese origin, and you got a poor casting, some Chinese stuff is good, other stuff isn't, but since it's cast also could be just bad luck you got a bad pour
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I looked through my records and it was bought in October 2004. Crank & matching bearings were $220.

Was that the same time frame as the cheap China import cranks? I don't know and metalurgists, but I would certainly be willing to send a chunk off to someone as long as it didn't cost too much$$.


mitchedo said:
About the crank... I have no experience or special knowledge, but it sure looks like a defective casting. I'm not sure to what extent I'd pursue it, but you might try calling the place where you bought it and see what they say. Have you ever used starter fluid of any kind, including WD40?
Click to expand...


Nope. Never. After I put in the glow plug override switch, it never failed to start. Took a lot of cranking sometimes, but always fired up eventually.


Michaeljp86 said:
Ive heard the 6.5 will run with a broken crank, maybe the crank was broke for a while making the clatter. I heard the SCAT cranks need to be sent to a shop and machined better.
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Earlier in the thread I mentioned that it seemed a little louder. I am leaning towards this. Maybe it was broken earlier, but continued to run until it snapped off in the second break. It wasn't running rough or anything, just seemed a little noiser than usual.

Realistic options are:

rebuild current engine (if block isn't cracked) $400 cheap to $1500 good.
cheap rebuild if I am going to sell, good rebuild if I am going to keep. Stock vs. SCAT, 22:1 vs. 18:1

Find a donor motor and just replace (most likely option) $300-$1000 range

part out the truck
good heads, tranny, interior, marine injectors with around 10K on them, IC setup has already been requested

I may just list the truck on craigslist for $2000 the way it sits and see if anybody bites. It is kinda pretty.
 

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if you need a truck still IMO rebuild yours whatever it takes to do that is going to cost significantly less than a new one unless you replace with newer used one, but a lot of unknowns there, so possibly some gamble there.

Scat with stock CR if block is still good would be my vote

Not sure about the vintage of your crank to know if it is China or not, start of my project build was after that, and Ratman got the one that was originally destined for me, which as it turns out was a blessing in disguise.
 
Turbine Doc said:
Rich/Ratman made out okay eventually got his $$$ back, fortunately his broke in shipment before it was installed, and he refused shipment.
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:D Yeah, I remember - was just funnin' ya, TD. Rich posted some cool pics of the chips in his block, the busted crank, and the crappy way the whole thing was packaged on that pallet.

There's a lesson in that for people... check every shipment for damage before you sign...
 
The cast iron in the pictures of the broken crank looks a little grainy, almost as if it was a poor pour at that point. may have been a pause in the pour or just a bad batch of metal.

I agree with TD looks like there may be a void mark in the crank at the end of the outer portion of the break, maybe just a blip in the picture, hard to tell.
 
I contacted Engine Rebuilders Supply down in Columbus where I bought the crank. The gey I talked to claimed that it was an original OEM crank and not a China import. He also mentioned that the 6.5's "have a tendancy to do that" (meaning break the crank).

I hope to get started pulling the engine this evening to check the condition of the block.

*If* I wasn't recently laid off, I would view this as a nice opprotunity to upgrade to a newer ride, but as the budget is in limbo, I pretty much have to get the truck running again. I'll update with the condition of the block.

I am open to recommendations for places to buy a short block. There is a place on ebay that has engines pulled from Hummers for $1600 + SH (item #220325426884).

There is also a complete non-running truck about 2 hrs away currently at $200. the problem there is the 280K miles on it.
 
I would get the $200 truck, my rig has over 250k and runs great. That truck is probably worth $300 in scrap weight.

You may want to try running a add in the classifides.
 
I'd check the 200.00 truck first and see if it's fixable before going after a used HMMWV engine as those things are the very defination of abused. Especialy the up-armored ones. Way to much weight for the vehicle and if used in Afghanistan then I for sure wouldn't want it.
 
Block is toast. Started pulling it and looked a little closer to see 2 big cracks where the bearing caps attach to the block.

The truck is going up on craigslist as a project truck and I will continue to look for a replacement engine. 6.2's seem to be all over the place, but 6.5's are scarce. Can you stick 6.5 parts on a 6.2 block (heads, exhaust manifolds, intake, injector pump)? Will accessories bolt up?

This sucks.:cussing:

I was thinking of asking $2000 the way it sits. To little? Too much?
 
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Find out what a machine shop would charge to fix the cracks using the Lock-'N-Stitch system.

I know that Missy Goodwrench seems to have had good luck with them. Would probably be much cheaper than a new block or a new truck.
 
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