Another broken crankshaft - I'm gonna cry.

[davo727]

Hey tinknocker: Whered ya get the Marine DB2 mechanical IP ? Part #?

 

[tinknocker]

Marine DB2

hectorwithinjectors
He is on EBAY and I purchased it outside of ebay.

This thread has me pondering a revisit on my timing. It idles smooth but just not quite. I had to make sure all lines are good and tight and now I can go back and look at the timing. I can put a cup of coffee on the plenum when it idles, with little shake. I have 3 others to monitor the idle and I compare them. The 98 runs great but I sure don't want to loose a crankshaft.

 

[Michaeljp86]

I like that dump bed, doesnt that screw up the fuel tank filler?

 

[midniteplowboyy]

I like that dump bed, doesnt that screw up the fuel tank filler?

Good question. I like that bed also, dont know what I'd use it for, but it is cool.

 

[tinknocker]

I have to put it up at every filling.

I ran codes this morning, and the only codes other than the various elec. IP codes (4 of them) were:
Timing Reference High.
Coolant temp high.

I did break the sensor at the top of the thermostat (hooked it on my belly) but the pins mate back up and I have a temp reading at 180 or so. Truck is certainly not hot. I think I will check that timing out, however. Anybody know how that PO370 (timing reference) works? What sensor is used? I was wondering if it was even valid with the DS4 gone.

 

[ShawnR]

Is your lift pump working? May have fuel leaking down overnight, thats what it sounds like. What GP's do you have? Do you have fuel smoke when it dies, maybe GP's are not getting hot enough and cool down to quick causing it to die.

Usually when the advance/high idle aint working they will run real rough, missing and have alot of smoke/raw fuel coming out of the exhaust gradually clearing up as it runs, usually takes 5-15 seconds depending how cold it is to clear up.

Whats your idle rpm set at?

I hear the lift pump running right after it dies and I did check flow while it was running and both are good. Is there a check valve in the lift pump that could fail? How would I check that?

GP's = new 60G's on right side, WAP's on the left (pieces of crap, but easy to change out after they burn up). I had them new in the box.

Idle is around 600 rpm cold or warm. It will start, run for a few seconds, then die when cold. With old motor, once you got it to run, it would always stay running. Smoke & sputter, but always stayed running.

 

[buddy]

Do you have a boost guage? Could your manual controller be adjusted to keep the wastegate slightly closed at idle so the turbo is trying to spin at idle?

 

[ShawnR]

Do you have a boost guage? Could your manual controller be adjusted to keep the wastegate slightly closed at idle so the turbo is trying to spin at idle?

Boost reads 0 at idle, but the impeller is definately spinning. I loosened tension on the spring with new motor, but there is still plenty of boost. Prob 6psi at normal driving with peak at 12.

EGT is 250-300 at idle and 400-450 while driving. Can climb to 600 if I get on it REALLY hard. What are normal EGT's?

 

[buddy]

My EGTs are about the same normal driving, but climb to 800-900 when Im on it hard.

6psi normal driving is way high though unless you just mean accelerating, is that cruising? cruising I only see like 5psi at 80MPH.

 

[buddy]

Figure out the stalling on startup?

Did you check that advance line on the IP, or check to see that youre getting a constant volatage to the shutoff solenoid while IGN is on. Maybe you can monitor the voltage while someone tries starting it.

 

[Turbine Doc]

Guys lets not mix and match discussion in same thread makes it difficult to follow troubleshooting recommendations/issues.

 

[Turbine Doc]

If you wanted to you could remove one head bolt at a time and install your studs.

That's an interesting statement...
Is this an OK procedure - Experts?
I've never done it that way - I always remove all of the head bolts (in the reverse sequence that they were put on) and then put the studs in - torquing them in sequence. Have I been wasting my time? It kinda sounds like a good idea, I really just don't know...

Missed this question RM, not in my engine would it be okay as you would be releasing a clamped area of the head and trying to retorqe it, and I doubt you would get same crush on the gasket, I'll open another thread to discuss merits of it, maybe I've been going about it wrong after all these years.

 

[midniteplowboyy]

I mainly suggested for him, since his engine already has new gaskets, shouldn't be to crispy/brittle or stressed yet. Also if it was a quality rebuild, the head/deck surfaces is already straight.

Considering the force that is required from ARP to tq down, plus with fine threads and if your head gasket was in good shape it begin with, I don't see the problem with doing it one at a time, going in factory sequence of course. You technically are compressing the headgasket even more then before so there should be no danger in hurting the gasket.

Some of the 6.slow ford guys are installing them as preventive maintenance this way. This is not the ideal way, but in his case I thought it would save him some money with no negligable effects. If the gasket was old or had alot of miles there's no way I'd do it that way, I'd pull the heads.