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Alternator charge wire???

Turbine Doc said:
I went back to 1st post, I know you probably gonna hate to hear this, but clean gnds also imperative for proper charging and maintaining tron flow to batts, and since you have 2 batts the cross tie hot lead to the other batt needs to be spiffy, the 1 wire as supplied by GM on mine and most other is up to task if you are having charging issues, need to find out why, is charge wire corroded under the insulation, I've seen that diminish alt charging output before.

Do you have a load cell, 1 dead cell in a pair of batts will diminish entire charging/electrical system capabilities?
Click to expand...

I replaced all my wires last yr and have 2 new optima batts. The problem I am having is when my front & rear blower with the lights on my voltage is to low for me. With all that on it seems like the alt juice is not getting to the batts fast enough. After a long drive till you park it for the night. The next morning it just takes to long to charge it back up to 14v. It did this since day one when I bought the truck. Maybe I can get a video of what I am saying.
Maybe my alt is low or going out.....:eek:

The only other thing that comes to mine is some days the gauge will show low after cycling the glow plugs. Sometimes it takes to the next start up to get it to 14v and sometimes up to 2 days. I never did figure this out.:mad2::confused:

This is why I wanted to change my alt wire
1. It is the oldest wire on the system ( 14 yrs old)
2. It looks like it could be replaced
3. maybe it is my problem ( trial n error )
 
j k auto said:
I replaced all my wires last yr and have 2 new optima batts. The problem I am having is when my front & rear blower with the lights on my voltage is to low for me. With all that on it seems like the alt juice is not getting to the batts fast enough. After a long drive till you park it for the night. The next morning it just takes to long to charge it back up to 14v. It did this since day one when I bought the truck. Maybe I can get a video of what I am saying.
Maybe my alt is low or going out.....:eek:

The only other thing that comes to mine is some days the gauge will show low after cycling the glow plugs. Sometimes it takes to the next start up to get it to 14v and sometimes up to 2 days. I never did figure this out.:mad2::confused:

This is why I wanted to change my alt wire
1. It is the oldest wire on the system ( 14 yrs old)
2. It looks like it could be replaced
3. maybe it is my problem ( trial n error )
Click to expand...

I suppose you could just buy the A/C Delco part from the dealer if that is the issue.

-Rob :)
 
Sorry, no luck on the AllData. The shops computer is down - they're waiting for a replacement. However, a suggestion was made to just size the fuse equal to or slightly below the size of the alternator.
 
j k auto said:
I replaced all my wires last yr and have 2 new optima batts. The problem I am having is when my front & rear blower with the lights on my voltage is to low for me. With all that on it seems like the alt juice is not getting to the batts fast enough. After a long drive till you park it for the night. The next morning it just takes to long to charge it back up to 14v. It did this since day one when I bought the truck. Maybe I can get a video of what I am saying.
Maybe my alt is low or going out.....:eek:

The only other thing that comes to mine is some days the gauge will show low after cycling the glow plugs. Sometimes it takes to the next start up to get it to 14v and sometimes up to 2 days. I never did figure this out.:mad2::confused:

This is why I wanted to change my alt wire
1. It is the oldest wire on the system ( 14 yrs old)
2. It looks like it could be replaced
3. maybe it is my problem ( trial n error )
Click to expand...


Low volts ??? is alt pulley the correct size for your cummins swap, is dia of other cummins pulleys correctly sized with current alt for alternator drive/charge speed?
 
Turbine Doc said:
Low volts ??? is alt pulley the correct size for your cummins swap, is dia of other cummins pulleys correctly sized with current alt for alternator drive/charge speed?
Click to expand...

Yes my burban would not start yesterday. I checked the volts and it runs at 14.5-14.7 so I know the alt is ok. Maybe the reg is acting up every once n a while. But not my batts were low so it would not start yesterday.

I just got done starting it today n everything was good . volts were 14.7 n before I started it the batts read 12.8

The only thing today is that I unplugged the glow plug relay and it cranked great so I think maybe I will keep it unplugged until further notice.:thumbsup:

I think when it is so cold out with the glow plug relay on it pulls to much of a load.:eek: Or I somehow gained I bad batt.

We will see how it works out now

Anyhow I still think uping the wire would help alot....:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
you guys are no help (jk). seriously, I have gurus on one site saying to throw a 4 ga wire on it with no fuse, their arguement being that GM never used fusible links on old trucks, and a 4 ga will enable more current flow. gurus here saying, fusible link, maxi-fuse, or factory wire.
So, can I upgrade my alternator charge wire or not? I have a lot of aftermarket power accessories, biggest of which is the plow, when I'm working it hard I can run the batteries down, they always charge back up, however my factory gauge tends to hang at around 12 when I'm not working it hard. I'd like to be able to charge up better when I'm working it hard. Everyday use with no plow or auxiliary lights it goes to 14.whatever.
 
I made my own charge wire and included a fusible link in it to prevent burning down my truck. I should have taken pics yesterday when I replaced the alternator. Sorry to say that if your alt is factroy it won't put out much charge at low RPM's, not designed for it. Install a larger guage wire with a fusible link in it near the battery. I can go pull the one of my truck and take some pics of it with a scale in it so you can see what size it is. Just keep the link slightly smaller in size than the rest of the wire and you'll be fine. I prefer a fusible link over a fuse but either one will work.
 
Last edited:
My 95 DaHooooley did not have a fusable link in the charge wire.
A simple wire from the ALt to the plus battery cable on the LH battery.

The cable was all part of the plus side cable.
A fusable link wont hurt anything though.

The only issue is to be sure that whatever you use is heavy enough to handle full alternator potential.

MGW
 
I always wondered why GM used a wire for the alternator that wasn't sized to full capacity of the alternator in the first place.
Click to expand...

Simple - Over current at a battery for a fairly short period of time will most likely cause it to EXPLODE. This is what we in the electrical trade call Not Good.
A battery with a shorted cell will draw all the current that it can get. The fusable link (hopefully) keeps this from happening.
 
RadioMan said:
Simple - Over current at a battery for a fairly short period of time will most likely cause it to EXPLODE. This is what we in the electrical trade call Not Good.
A battery with a shorted cell will draw all the current that it can get. The fusable link (hopefully) keeps this from happening.
Click to expand...

But wouldn't that be why you have a voltage regulator & fusable link?
The dinky charging wire reminds me of the choked air intake & exhaust. It's the way they did it to save money on the exhaust. I have no idea why they choked the supply air.
 
But wouldn't that be why you have a voltage regulator & fusable link?
Click to expand...

Voltage regulator regulates VOLTAGE - It's Voltage X Current that blows thing up. The wire and fusible link combo is sized so that you can't overcurrent the battery.

If a battery *goes* while the hood is down you have a mess. If you're mucking about in there with the hood up when one goes you're a mess.

An automotive battery is a plastic box filled with lead and sulphuric acid... The last thing you want to do is screw with the safeties if you don't know what you're doing!
 
Detroit Dan said:
you guys are no help (jk). seriously, I have gurus on one site saying to throw a 4 ga wire on it with no fuse, their arguement being that GM never used fusible links on old trucks, and a 4 ga will enable more current flow. gurus here saying, fusible link, maxi-fuse, or factory wire.
So, can I upgrade my alternator charge wire or not? I have a lot of aftermarket power accessories, biggest of which is the plow, when I'm working it hard I can run the batteries down, they always charge back up, however my factory gauge tends to hang at around 12 when I'm not working it hard. I'd like to be able to charge up better when I'm working it hard. Everyday use with no plow or auxiliary lights it goes to 14.whatever.
Click to expand...


just so you know, i have the EXACT same results when i'm working the plow hard. My thoughts are getting the alternator rebuilt so it puts out more current at less RPM.
 
RadioMan said:
Voltage regulator regulates VOLTAGE - It's Voltage X Current that blows thing up. The wire and fusible link combo is sized so that you can't overcurrent the battery.

If a battery *goes* while the hood is down you have a mess. If you're mucking about in there with the hood up when one goes you're a mess.

An automotive battery is a plastic box filled with lead and sulphuric acid... The last thing you want to do is screw with the safeties if you don't know what you're doing!
Click to expand...


I've seen a battery explode before, sounded like a gunshot and sprayed shrapnel/acid EVERYWHERE.
 
I saw one and heard one blow, definately not a good place to have your face.
I personally think oversizing the wire is a good idea as long as it is protected by the Fuse, breaker or fusable link. I've seen a lot of those wires with the coating brittlized from having overheated & the battery never blew nor did the fusable link that means the wire was the weak link.
 
that means the wire was the weak link.
Click to expand...

Generally the result of poor engineering practices - i.e. Not derating the wire for the under hood heat.
Run the truck till it's hot with your best (worst?) electrical load... Lights on - Stereo cranked up, etc. Park the truck but don't turn it off and feel the battery charging wire (carefull now!). If it's HOT - It's too small. If not, it's OK. Simple test for correct wire ampacity.
 
RadioMan said:
Generally the result of poor engineering practices - i.e. Not derating the wire for the under hood heat.
Run the truck till it's hot with your best (worst?) electrical load... Lights on - Stereo cranked up, etc. Park the truck but don't turn it off and feel the battery charging wire (carefull now!). If it's HOT - It's too small. If not, it's OK. Simple test for correct wire ampacity.
Click to expand...

Next time i'm out plowing i'll stop after its working hard and try this exact thing myself. Thanks RadioMan!
 
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