• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

alpha's 6.5 Tahoe

aLpHaSuRf said:
Hey all, well today was supposed to be my day to look over my 6.5 and give her some love but been busy with other things since 8 this morn. Now just about to eat dinner then going to inspect the air duct inlet, air filter and also the maf. I have some MAF cleaner so I try to clean it.

I moved her 2x today and noticed something that caught my attention that I'm wondering about.

I only backed her out of the driveway and pulled on the other side of the driveway. She must have been runn Not for not ever 4 minutes. After I shut her off BOTH times I heard a kind of sizzling hissing sound from inside the front grill area where the oil cooler, trans cooler and radiator are. I didn't see any signs of anything dripping or leaking but it almost sounded like a pressure cooker relieving pressure. Is this normal?
Click to expand...

Running the AC, Eh?


Seriously you are hearing the AC orface tube in the end of the condenser, passenger side, hiss after shutdown as ~300 PSI becomes 100 PSI through a ball point pen sized hole. Rear air equipped like the suburbans can be would put the Orface tube in a different location.
 
WarWagon said:
Running the AC, Eh?


Seriously you are hearing the AC orface tube in the end of the condenser, passenger side, hiss after shutdown as ~300 PSI becomes 100 PSI through a ball point pen sized hole. Rear air equipped like the suburbans can be would put the Orface tube in a different location.
Click to expand...

Actually WW, I was not running the AC. That's why I am confused about that hissing noise but you are right it comes from the passenger side in the front grill. Should this be a concern?

Is anyone close to me that wouldn't mind me dropping by so we can meet in person and check out my 6.5 to take a look over her with me?
 
Okay WW you were right about the AC. After my last post I was thinking. The AC button was pressed in. So I just started her up. Let her run for 5 minutes but before starting her I de-pressed the AC button and this time when I shut it down... NO hiss. So no worries here.

Thanks WW.
 
aLpHaSuRf said:
Actually WW, I was not running the AC. That's why I am confused about that hissing noise but you are right it comes from the passenger side in the front grill. Should this be a concern?

Is anyone close to me that wouldn't mind me dropping by so we can meet in person and check out my 6.5 to take a look over her with me?
Click to expand...

Actually you could be correct, AC OFF fan at speed 0, and STILL have the compressor running. o_O However the AC light should flicker or be on and you would need a repair. To be clear: the fan in the off position should shut the AC compressor off even with the AC button in/on. If it doesn't shut the compressor off and the AC light is lit the fan switch is bad see below. (AC light follows the compressor with the fan off being the unusual light flicker or on off. It's usually on solid when the fan is in any speed but off.)

Defrost and other modes (recirculation) GM and others think they are smarter than you and run the compressor anyway sometimes making ice on the windshield worse is not the only confusion. I would reference the following thread and check the connector behind the glovebox to make sure it's not starting to melt down. The reference thread below explains a condition that runs the AC compressor with the fan off - Fan switch failure and/or control head problems:

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...ers-w-blower-off-erratic-or-no-airflow.28385/

Just saying keep an eye out for this as it's common, but, more common with a 1995. You can replace the fan switch separately from the control head. IMO if you had the fan "off" the the compressor was running you need to replace the switch. Double check you have the intermittent problem.

If the connector is melted I recommend replacing the likely shorting out blower motor with AC Delco (they are quite vs. the cheap knocks offs) and always add a ground strap to the blower motor no matter what.
 
Last edited:
WW when you fan speed is set to off or the 0 position if my ac button is depressed the light still stays on. So I'm going to follow the thread you provided me and fix it. Thanks. Looks like that swish might have been with zero time on the clock.
 
Hey all, I just order my Flight System PMD kit from Leroy. I will be installing it upon delivery to me. Other then that.. I've been driving my 6.5 a little each day. So far no more check engine light for the P1191 code.

Guys when It comes to a 6.5 suburban which is better? 6.5 1500 or 2500??? Also why?
 
With the 6.5 it's basically the same drivetrain in the k1500 as the k2500. It's even 8 lug. Spring rate might be different.
 
Number of lugs has nothing to do with it. For Suburbans: C/K2500 - 10.5" 14 bolt full-floating axle. C/K1500 - 9.5" 14 bolt semi-floating axle. C/K2500 - 1 Ton leaves and torsion bars. C/K1500 - 3/4 ton leaves and torsion bars. This is a general rule of thumb, option packages can change this.
 
Okay so basically the engine and transmission are the same what makes the 2500 HD over the 1500 would be the 14 bolt 10.5 floating rear axle, leaf springs, suspension parts? How about frame? The reason I ask is because I plan putting my Tahoe to use. I plan on towing with my Tahoe with it's shorter wheel base and 6 lug axles. I plan on towing about 6,000-7,000 lbs plus the trailer weight. I Plan to do mods to help her run cooler for towing. I'm just not sure with my axles what I would be capable of towing safely. I can easily find 2500 trucks at the junk yard and swap out my axles if need be.

Since I lost my job a little over last year my girl and I have been buying and selling only GMT400 Tahoes and Suburbans. So those are the trucks we will be towing. I actually towed a 1996 Tahoe with a 1999 Tahoe about 7 months ago. They were both 5.7 Vortec's. The 1999 didn't do bad at all considering the 1996 had 6 inches of lift and sitting on 35" tires. How much weight would you all say I was towing included the 1996 and trailer? Will my 6.5 Tahoe tow better?

I knew it was only going to be used once to tow so I took my chances. Truck pulled great and it was a 5.7 not even the 6.5.

2 Pretty 2Hoes.
IMG_0353.JPG
 
Last edited:
The 1/2 ton diesel burbs I have seen were 3/4 ton running gear including having a full floating rear axle. Definitely different than gassers.
 
He's using his Tahoe. That is different than a Burb. The Tahoe is 6 lug, uses the 9.5" semi-floating rear axle and if a 4WD, the smaller 8.25" IFS differential. The Tahoe, in either 2 or 4WD, is essentially a Regular Cab Short Box 1500 platform with the lighter C/K1500 frame and suspension. This not just an "axle swap to K2500/3500 rear axle and front 9.25" IFS differential. For the rears you need to also swap in the 3/4 or 1 Ton rear leaves and shackles. For the front, even though the larger IFS differential will bolt in, you also need the larger CV shafts, 8-lug steering knuckles and hubs, rotors and calipers, upper control arms, heavier torsion arms and keys.

When you get done sinking a lot.of time and money into making a K1500 Tahoe into a K2500/3500, what you will have is still based off of the lighter 1500 C/K RCSB frame. It will ride like shit unloaded with that stiff suspension and short wheelbase, like a buckboard. Loaded down, it may ride a little better, but you will find that it will handle really squirrelly pulling the kind of weight you are talking about (a K2500 6.5TD Burb on a 22' steel dovetail trailer will easily scale out at or over 11,000 lbs, WAY over the GVWR and towing ratings of the Tahoe), especially if you encounter crosswinds while towing. The shorter the wheelbase of the towing vehicle pulling a long/heavy trailer, the more unstable it becomes. This is why you will see short wheelbase cabovers for moving large semi trailers around town or in dock/shipping yards for maneuverability, but for OTR the longer the wheelbase the better for towing which is why you see 168-210" wheelbase conventional cabs (with single or double sleepers) for long haul trucking - comfort and SAFETY.

If you are going to be towing for commercial use (your Tahoe/Yukon/Suburban business) you REALLY should consider either a C (rare) or K2500 6.5TD Suburban or a C/K 3500 6.5TD Crew Cab Longbed SRW/DRW as your tow vehicle.

Just my humble opinion.
 
Putting 6000-7000 LBS on top of a 1ton plus trailer (Empty weight: 2,210 lbs) requires a different platform. Maybe with a gas sucking 454... Otherwise you simply have the wrong tool for the job.

In your photo you can see the rear end squatted down and the front lifted up. This can change by moving the towed vehicle on the trailer as you change the tongue weight. The U-haul trailer really needs weight distribution bars over 5000 LBS by the hitch sticker. You care because the "balance" uses the rear axle as a lever and "lifts" the front tires off the ground. Reducing traction to literally lifting the front tires clean off the ground. When this happens the trailer likes to jackknife and take you off the road at speed - between power poles if you have any luck. Reduced traction for braking and steering also come into play. The harder you brake the more weight is thrown on the tongue and this lever action lifts the front wheels reducing their braking traction.

Even "IF" the vehicle can handle it you do not want to exceed any weights that the vehicle is "rated" for. It doesn't matter in non-CDL vehicles what the vehicle "can" do: the factory sticker and ratings matter. The insurance company and liability is yours if you are grossly overloaded. Nevermind the other driver was texting or other factors you simply are now fighting an uphill battle and your insurance company has walked away making atty fees out of your pocket...

Start with your GM dealer for tow ratings. If they come back ignorant you can get a good idea here http://www.trailerlife.com/trailer-towing-guides/

FWIW a 1997 4x4 Tahoe with the 6.5 is rated at 7000 LBS.
Same year 4x4 2500 (3/4t) Suburban is rated at 7500 LBS.
454 engine is 10,000 LBS and meaningless. Can do doesn't allow you to do it...
K2500 Pickup 6.5TD is 8000 LBS. the 1 ton is rated less at 7500 LBS.
A higher tow rating is listed for pickups that tow fifth-wheel trailers. NA to the question, but, best I can tell it's 11,000 LBS with a 454. The 6.5 engine limits us for pickups, but, does better in SUV's.

You could find a HD truck and still have to get a better turbo for a 6.5TD to tow the weight. Myself I got a 2003 Dodge Cummins that can tow ~13,000 LBS aka 20,000 GCWR with the ~7000 LBS for the truck itself. And I still blew up the Cummins, but, at least it's rated to tow heavy.

The weight of the U-Haul car trailer is listed here:
https://www.uhaul.com/Trailers/Auto-Transport-Rental/AT/
 
ak diesel driver said:
I agree with all you said husker but he did ask about a 6.5 burb :)
Click to expand...
And I answered him in three words. Then he posted pictures of towing one Tahoe with another and I headed him off at the pass with any thoughts of using his new 6.5TD Tahoe (or any 6.5 Tahoe/Yukon) as a dedicated tow rig.
 
Thank you WW & Husker I'm not crazy. I do Care! If you guys read my last few lines before the pic of me using a Tahoe to tow a Tahoe. That was the first and only time to date I have to personally tow back one of these trucks so I took a chance. That is why I posted in here asking. Because I have paid transport companies every other time. I want to start transporting my own vehicles and Safety comes first and I value my life more then any truck. Thanks for the input. So looks like I have to look for a dodge dually as my dedicated tow vehicle.
 
Check insurance, but, a MD truck like a Frightliner or other "not a pickup" would likely be cheaper to buy than a Dodge truck. They (dodge) hold their value for a reason - and that's because everyone wants one. Not a fan of 6 tires myself due to extra expense, but, stability is rumored to be better. 19.5" tires converting a DRW to a single would be awesome because the DRW sticker allows the extra capacity...

Dodge I suggest 2wd 2003 HO with a NV5600. Best trans, no emissions, No TPIM, no death wobble from worn 4x4 front end... Engines cost ~$10,000 to R&R w/o turbo. Statistically they make more miles from the insane miles and prices posted in the for sale ads... But not all Cummins make the high miles as mine has been in and out at least 3 times in 110K. I'd push a 6.2/6.5 before I'd Drive a Ford. Dodge is a wrapper for the Cummins engine that requires aftermarket doors in the HVAC, seat cushions replaced often, and the AC recharged often due to an ECM bug that pops off the relief valve.

A HD GM truck of our era (the ones with the factory 19.5" tires, body lift etc.) would do the job with some hot rod options like better turbo and higher stall Yank converter.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top