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Aftermarket filtering: should I?

GM Guy said:
I know one thing that is for sure, its gonna get moved! It may be re-located just after the LP, keep it down low so it is eay to bleed. But i kinda agree w/ aces, it isn't the greatest thing in the world.

Airdog/FASS is a little spendy, so OEM is looking good.
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Seeing you are hellbend on replacing the JD set up,PM me if you wanna get rid of it. I can use it.
 
well, the thing i don't like about the box setup is an issue that we ran into on combines, they don't actually seal to that plate, so chaff builds up, and if you need to change a filter in the field, but have no air, there is a chance of contamination. luckily though, we run gleaners, so there is still the spin-on filter at the motor to filter chaff, but i am still not a huge fan of the cleanliness of this setup.

And, by the above reference to the combines, I am wondering if the box is that good, why did gleaner go from tank to sediment bowl to box setup to the newer setup of tank to box to spin-on? Im thinking there was a good reason. I have still not found anything on the micron size on a box filter either.
 
GM Guy said:
well, the thing i don't like about the box setup is an issue that we ran into on combines, they don't actually seal to that plate, so chaff builds up, and if you need to change a filter in the field, but have no air, there is a chance of contamination. luckily though, we run gleaners, so there is still the spin-on filter at the motor to filter chaff, but i am still not a huge fan of the cleanliness of this setup.

And, by the above reference to the combines, I am wondering if the box is that good, why did gleaner go from tank to sediment bowl to box setup to the newer setup of tank to box to spin-on? Im thinking there was a good reason. I have still not found anything on the micron size on a box filter either.
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no matter what type of filter one has,there will allways be issues with dust or chaff creeping in every nook and cranny between filter and base.A portable air tank and blowgun is your friend here.
 
Could try a Ford dealer up there. They were made kin Canada anyway. I could get you the part # if you really want. I'm going to Ford Tuesday anyway to buy one of those filters as PM for my Louisville.
 
GM Guy said:
the thing is the OEM is 10 micron, and I have looked into, and cannot find what the glass box filters are.
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According to WIX & Stanadyne when I called/emailed them who makes all of the OEM style elements used in the later model round filter/heater/drain/WIF sensor fuel manager style regardless who's brand of box the filter comes wrapped in; that filter is a 5 micron nominal filter, I run a 10 micron Racor as my primary prior to the lift pumps, and retained the OEM filter in the engine bay, 5 micron is sufficent to protect our low psi fuel systems, if Stanadyne would have thought it needed a 2 micron then I suspect it would have come with a 2 micron like DMAX did.
 
Turbine Doc said:
According to WIX & Stanadyne when I called/emailed them who makes all of the OEM style elements used in the later model round filter/heater/drain/WIF sensor fuel manager style regardless who's brand of box the filter comes wrapped in; that filter is a 5 micron nominal filter, I run a 10 micron Racor as my primary prior to the lift pumps, and retained the OEM filter in the engine bay, 5 micron is sufficent to protect our low psi fuel systems, if Stanadyne would have thought it needed a 2 micron then I suspect it would have come with a 2 micron like DMAX did.
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Stanadyne thought alot of things that didn't end up working as well in the field as on paper...
 
I only read the first 12 posts.

Whatever you do , maintain more than a single filter. I found a fair number of sand grains in the intake screen on my DS4 (probably a missing screen in the OEM filter assy).

>it was determined that the OEM was the same on all 6.5L TDs,
This is not quite true. I installed a pair of the OEMs to obtain redundancy {plus a transparent-bowled old Racor for visibility}. I strongly suggest that if you obtain OEM filter units , Be Sure to specify those (of newer vintage) which have the molded-plastic base (heater) , because i've had Two of the metal (capped) base/heater units develop leaks.
- T m
 
so for on the cheap, it looks like a frame mtd braket pre LP with the dual housing relocated from underhood is in order, then the OEM setup is to be installed post LP that should pretty well do it, what do you guys think?

And of course we will try to support vendors and leave the lines OEM and use the conversion fittings to run the dual housing!
 
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