Adusting IP Timing

[Drago]

I've been running my 3500 on B100 or near B100 for several months now, no smoke, starts right up and butt dyno feels ok. My mileage appears ok. Easy to check with my translucent fuel tank hidden in the truck tool box. I haven't done anything to the timing but I'm wondering if tweaking it would improve performance seeing that B100 flash point is 260F as opposed to Petro Diesel 147F. If so which way do I need to go? Doesn't the ECM automatically adjust?

 

[Drago]

I found this :

As for adjusting the timing, on the OBD-II trucks (96&newer) you can set the TDC offset without a scanner, using the following procedure: (often called KOKO - key on, key off).

1. Start the engine.
2. Operate the vehicle until the engine coolant temperature is greater than 77°C (170°F).
3. Turn the ignition ON with the engine OFF.
4. Hold the accelerator pedal in the wide open throttle position for a minimum of 45 seconds (this step prepares the PCM to activate the offset learn (internal).
5. Turn the ignition OFF for 30 seconds. In this step, the PCM is being powered down.
6. Start the engine.
Verify in the scan tool that ECT is greater than 77°C (170°F). If not, operate vehicle until desired ECT is achieved (vehicle can be driven or throttle can be depressed until correct coolant temperature is achieved).
As soon as ECT is greater than 77°C (170°F) and the engine speed is below 1500 RPMs, the PCM automatically learns a new offset.
7. A new offset will over write the previous one.

You really need some sort of scanner to tell you where you're at, before and after. Also, it won't set if codes are present.

I think if you mark and position the new pump the same as old, the timing should be close enough to not set a code.

Joe.

Does this work?

 

[ak diesel driver]

IIRC that will only work on OBD2

 

[Will L.]

When we did the bio testing for uncky sam, unical 76 oil and the likes, timing changes were very effective. If the flash point is higher, the burn will start and end later in the cylinder, so advancing the injection helped a more complete burn. The best way on idi engines was with an optic eye style because too early ignition was harder on precups and gps because it would flash at a faster rate. The mix of methanol really played havoc on a lot of pistons till the ce's worked it out.

B100 is a generic term, do you know your btu/bioether/mass rate? Iirc most b100 flashed around 300* and #2 at around 125*. I could be wrong, this is going back quite a while (couple decades-ish).

 

[Drago]

B100 is a generic term, do you know your btu/bioether/mass rate?

I have no idea except what I gleaned from Wiki, BioD is approx 260F and PetroD is 147F I gotta track down a 6.5 mechanic local with the right tool/experience local, I learned long ago that cheaping out on tools is bad practice. I looked at scanner prices and they run about 400$