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99 Suburban 6.5 to 5.9 Cummins Swap

FellowTraveler

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Got this out tonight. For those with lifted trucks and no vehicle lift, remove tires and put on jackstands as low as possible. I had to build a platform because the trans jack wasn’t tall enough.

Planning on removing engine tomorrow evening.
I was wondering what is the total length of that trans and t-case "if you can." Thanks
 

usanumber1

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I am having some trouble with the installation of the engine into the SSOR motor mounts, information is detailed in the thread linked below.

 

FellowTraveler

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I am having some trouble with the installation of the engine into the SSOR motor mounts, information is detailed in the thread linked below.

Only other thing I can think of is that "the mount plates position on the mounting pads need to be relocated lower that would bring them in closer to one another making up for the gap while lowering the Cummins some."

Make sure the Cummins is level right to left too..............
 

usanumber1

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Nothing really yet. I talked to Paul at SSOR, he said the distance from top hole on the motor mount frame pad to the other was approx 22'. My engine is in, and it's a pain in the ass to get in there alone, and I haven't really had the time to spend some real time on it since the weekend. However, I did measure it from hole to block mounting surface on both sides. I got approx 5.5" driver, and approx 6.5" on passenger, with the width of the block at that waistline at approx 10.5", that's 22.5". I understand that's not a totally accurate measurement, but it's all I've been able to get. I ran a line down the head covers and it appears to be center of the engine bay.

I'm really unsure how it could have spread out a full inch, unless the 6.5 that was inside before was holding it together? I'm thinking a spacer may be a solution. I'm calling Paul later today when I have a chance to talk.
 

FellowTraveler

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Nothing really yet. I talked to Paul at SSOR, he said the distance from top hole on the motor mount frame pad to the other was approx 22'. My engine is in, and it's a pain in the ass to get in there alone, and I haven't really had the time to spend some real time on it since the weekend. However, I did measure it from hole to block mounting surface on both sides. I got approx 5.5" driver, and approx 6.5" on passenger, with the width of the block at that waistline at approx 10.5", that's 22.5". I understand that's not a totally accurate measurement, but it's all I've been able to get. I ran a line down the head covers and it appears to be center of the engine bay.

I'm really unsure how it could have spread out a full inch, unless the 6.5 that was inside before was holding it together? I'm thinking a spacer may be a solution. I'm calling Paul later today when I have a chance to talk.
I see you cut the mounting pads on the chassis quite a bit so a spacer would be the best option. I reexamined your image and it looks like there is no space left to drill lower on the pad...............
 
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usanumber1

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I see you cut the mounting pads on the chassis quite a bit so a spacer would be the best option. I reexamined your image and it looks like there is no space left to drill lower on the pad...............
I cut the pads along the line prescribed by all instructions I’ve seen. The mounts are simply pushed as far forward as possible. Here’s a better pic.
 

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FellowTraveler

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I cut the pads along the line prescribed by all instructions I’ve seen. The mounts are simply pushed as far forward as possible. Here’s a better pic.
The gusset is impressive and will more than hold everything in place the x-member pipe is smart too.

From the images IMO a spacer would be the best option to place mount where it needs to be
 
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