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'97 Suburban 2500 rear brake - help needed please

M

Merv

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Location
Ancaster, ON
So, I have a 97 Suburban 2500 with 6.5 TD. I have a bit of an issue with the truck tending to wander on the road, cut a long story short, went to have the alignment checked and it turns out the front end is 100% fine, trouble lies with the back end, the drivers side axle is slightly bent!!, causing the wheel to be slightly toe-out.

Anyways, I managed to source a used rear axle with less K's than my existing one, now comes to the perplexing part. I need to get the brake drums off so that I can inspect the internals and attach the e-brake line etc (they were just cut off at the breakers yard) before doing the axle swap. I have searched the entire internet (i think) and this forum, but cannot find a simple explanation as to how to get the drums off (I have the semi-floating axle, 9.5 ring gear diff - 8 stud wheel). I have seen mentioned about pulling the axle shaft out, but cannot for the life of me visualize how that will help to get the drum off.

Does there exist anywhere a simple visual step by step as to how to go about this? On my knees with a very confused look on my face
 
Depends on the drum and hub setup you got. Post a picture. Some are stubborn and others are like the video above. The how to section on here covers the front rotors and are similar to having to pull the hubs to change.
 
Major transplant surgery succesfully performed yesterday. Got the old axle out, new one put in. Unexpected bonus, the "new" axle is a posi-traction, picture of the old one below. Took us (my son, the heavy duty equipment mechanic and I, mostly him) most of the day yesterday, but all good. Interesting bit of trivia, the old axle (as pictured) is different in terms of the drum setup, but other than that the measurements are exactly the same. (the "new" axle is the same setup as in the video above)

IMG_1539rs.jpgIMG_1537rsrs.jpg
 
Merv said:
So, I have a 97 Suburban 2500 with 6.5 TD. I have a bit of an issue with the truck tending to wander on the road, cut a long story short, went to have the alignment checked and it turns out the front end is 100% fine, trouble lies with the back end, the drivers side axle is slightly bent!!, causing the wheel to be slightly toe-out.

Anyways, I managed to source a used rear axle with less K's than my existing one, now comes to the perplexing part. I need to get the brake drums off so that I can inspect the internals and attach the e-brake line etc (they were just cut off at the breakers yard) before doing the axle swap. I have searched the entire internet (i think) and this forum, but cannot find a simple explanation as to how to get the drums off (I have the semi-floating axle, 9.5 ring gear diff - 8 stud wheel). I have seen mentioned about pulling the axle shaft out, but cannot for the life of me visualize how that will help to get the drum off.

Does there exist anywhere a simple visual step by step as to how to go about this? On my knees with a very confused look on my face
Click to expand...

Merv said:
Major transplant surgery succesfully performed yesterday. Got the old axle out, new one put in. Unexpected bonus, the "new" axle is a posi-traction, picture of the old one below. Took us (my son, the heavy duty equipment mechanic and I, mostly him) most of the day yesterday, but all good. Interesting bit of trivia, the old axle (as pictured) is different in terms of the drum setup, but other than that the measurements are exactly the same. (the "new" axle is the same setup as in the video above)

View attachment 39501View attachment 39502
Click to expand...

You said in your first post you had a 9.5" semi floater, but your pic is of a 10.5" FULL floater. As for the drum difference, trucks went on with the hub while the BURBS drums slid over the hub. Some applications did vary, but for the most part this held true.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
You said in your first post you had a 9.5" semi floater, but your pic is of a 10.5" FULL floater. As for the drum difference, trucks went on with the hub while the BURBS drums slid over the hub. Some applications did vary, but for the most part this held true.
Click to expand...

Yes, I am a little confused, the VIN number and build sheet says it has the semi floater originally (9.5 and 4:10 ratio) but clearly the replacement axle is different. THe bonus (for me) was getting a posi-trsaction axle (don't know nuttin abouit semi and full floaters to be honest)
 
Merv said:
Yes, I am a little confused, the VIN number and build sheet says it has the semi floater originally (9.5 and 4:10 ratio) but clearly the replacement axle is different. THe bonus (for me) was getting a posi-trsaction axle (don't know nuttin abouit semi and full floaters to be honest)
Click to expand...

The full float 10.5 is heavier duty, better/bigger brakes, and somewhat easier to work on.

Source Unknown
 
Another dumb question, what does the semi and full (in floater) actually mean?

Update on the brakes, took the Suburban to Midas on Upper James in Hamilton to get a brake flush done and a leaky bleed screw replaced (thought they may as well do it while doing the other messy stuff). One of the mechanics there (and I use the term "mechanic" loosely), tries to tell me, before he has even inspected the truck, that I will probably need a new caliper on the rear as bleeder screws are not sold seperately!! (on a truck with DRUM brakes on the rear). I corrected him regarding the type of rear brake I have, so then this font of wisdom tells me I will need a new slave cylinder. Again he has not even inspected the truck yet!! Needless to say this didn't exactly inspire confidence in me. Then tells me it will be at least another hour before they bring it into the shop (after having made an appointment a few hours before. Quick call to Canadian Tire (who did confirm bleeder screws are sold seperately), took the truck there and less than an hour later I was out of there, brake systyem flushed and bleeder screw replaced (no charge for the bleeder screw). So, if you want to get screwed and be upsold, go to Midas. Don't think I will be going back there
 
Full floater means the axle is full floating or in other words doesn't carry any of the vehicles weight. The hub of a full float axle has 2 bearings in it and carries all of the vehicles weight, the axle simply transmits the power. In a semi float application there is one bearing at the end of the axle shaft, and the axle carries the weight.
 
Thanks for the explanation. Wish I had known all that a few days ago :shiiiiiite: , but I think still happy that I now have a posi-traction. I wasn't planning on hauling huge weight around. Thanks again. You guys are great
 
Yup, brakes are defintely smaller, about 2 cm narrower. Don't have a pic, but it looks exactly like the setup in the video I posted earlier.
 
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