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96 Dodge Diesel 4x4 with 6 pak over head camper Alaska.

Rustic

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Hello, stumbled on this site and hope there’s been repairs done by members that I’m trying to learn. Roof on the old 6 pack leaked and would like to replace e with new larger stringers and solid sheet metal that you can walk on and install carrier along with solar. Eliminate top openings and install vents on side walls. Any advice is appreciated. Rustic
 
Ive got a couple buddies that go camping/ hunting in rough county. They bought old beater camper top and the other a small trailer. Both had roof damage when bought.

They put some thin steel (guessing 24 gauge?) on top and just ran screws into the existing crossmembers. Then on top of that added unistrut running lengthwise for adding later stuff as needed. Then had it rhino lined. Bulletproof basically and never leaks anything. The guy with the trailer did the whole exterior of the trailer- branches, limbs, etc have zero effect on it now.
 
Welcome to TTS!

Might consider keeping at least one vent on the roof: hot air rises.

Last I checked, MaxxAir is the only vendor with a vent which will operate when fully closed (crude ceiling fan), can operate while open and raining (without needing an external vent cover), and can leave the vent open while driving. So this is another thing to consider.

And given that this is looking like a re-engineering job, check out whether it is comfortably possible to sacrifice some overhead room (floor to ceiling height) to add a bit more insulation.

Slathering a layer of EDPM on the final product will serve multi-role duty of reducing noise from rain on a metal roof, opportunity for water intrusion (leaks), and indoor temperature from sun exposure.

By the way, we love RV porn, so feel free to post lots of repair-in-progress photos.
 
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