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95 suburban 6.5 td Quits then starts

ircked

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I am alittle desperate on this one. I am driving along just fine and all of a sudden my suburban quits. it immediatly starts and may die again a few minutes later. then it might run fine for the next 20 miles. I changes the filter. i have had problems with the fsd in the past and put the heat sink in but this happens when the engine is cold. the fds problems i have had in the past have only occured when the engine is hot. there are no fault codes set. I was getting ready to sell the vehicle but can't feel good about selling it with a problem like this. Any ideas from you experts?
 
Check all your grounds and make sure your lift pump is still working (this would include the oil pressure switch as well). Is your FSD cooler mounted on the intake? If so, that very well maybe your problem. In order for the PMD/FSD to survive, you have to get it out of the engine compartment.
 
Check all your grounds and make sure your lift pump is still working (this would include the oil pressure switch as well). Is your FSD cooler mounted on the intake? If so, that very well maybe your problem. In order for the PMD/FSD to survive, you have to get it out of the engine compartment.

And to add to this...once the PMD has stalled once, the damage is done. Cold temp. won't make any diff.
 
yes my fsd cooler was a heat sink that bolts on inplace of the cover that said 6.5 on it. i have replaced the fsd once since changing the setup so it isn't under the intake manifold. It doesn't act like a short problem as it will all of a sudden just stop, like when i had fsd problems before but before it only did it when it was hot.
how do i tell my lift pump is still working? and also how do you get the fsd out of the engine compartment? where do people mount it?
 
And to add to this...once the PMD has stalled once, the damage is done. Cold temp. won't make any diff.

are you just saying that once it stalls it is an indication that it is bad? and it will start to only get worse?
 
To test the lift pump, open the T valve while the engine is idleing. If it dies, your lift pump is not working. This could be the oil pressure switch (OPS) not providing current to the pump or the pump itself is bad.

are you just saying that once it stalls it is an indication that it is bad? and it will start to only get worse?

yes.

Test your lift pump and grounds first and hope for the best. But by all indications, I think you have a bad PMD.

You also indicate in your fist post that you are trying to sell it. Why? Diesel Suburbans are hard to come by and the 6.5 is an excellent engine once you get the kinks worked out of it. What I am getting at is for you to keep it and use this forum as a resource to make it an enjoyable truck to own.
 
You can use the same heatsink, just get an extension or extend it yourself. Put the heatsink on the bumper. Assuming that the PMD is good.

When outside, your PMD can last longer at least that is the experience from most members.

As said before, it does not matter if the engine temperature is hot or cold. The time that PMD failed inside the engine compartment is when the temperature start changing right before Spring or Fall.
 
To test the lift pump, open the T valve while the engine is idleing. If it dies, your lift pump is not working. This could be the oil pressure switch (OPS) not providing current to the pump or the pump itself is bad.

i'm pretty familiar with the engine but i don't know the T valve you are refering to, any pointers? that sounds like an easy test. Thanks a bunch.

My bet is a bad PMD also but i like the test. would you consider an after market one?
http://www.pensacoladiesel.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=30100

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You also indicate in your fist post that you are trying to sell it. Why? Diesel Suburbans are hard to come by and the 6.5 is an excellent engine once you get the kinks worked out of it. What I am getting at is for you to keep it and use this forum as a resource to make it an enjoyable truck to own.

now that is a harder answer. A 95 td diesel suburban is darn hard to come by. I looked about 3 years before i found this over 10 years ago. We've owned it and raised 4 kids in it, cross country, hunted, pulled boats, etc, etc. It has served us well and been a great rig. I just replaced ac, all front end, new brakes, rotors, .... My problem is we just married off my youngest and i don't need it anymore. so what do you do? I'm not selling it because i'm trying to unload it. when i only need it once or twice a year it is hard to justify just using it to commute. but with the current prices of suburbans, it may not sell. I plan on asking a fair price and if it doesn't sell i'll just be glad it is all fixed up, detailed, etc. :smile5:
 
The t-valve in my 95 is behind the where the tensioner pulley assembly is located.

It looks like a T, this is the same place where you drain your water if there is WIF.

The aftermarket PMD is fine. Just make sure it is warranted.
 
Thank very much. i've been traveling this week and plan to check things out this weekend. last night after i started home from the airport it quit about 3 times while the engine was cold. then thing ran fine the rest of the way home ~ 20 miles.
 
What did you ever come up with on this, was it the PMD? My truck has recently started doing this in the cold temps, I already have a SSD PMD so I was just curious as to what you found out.
 
SSD is 1 yr...

Only if you mount it on the intake on their mount, with their ground, nothing like a perpetual revenue generator, to keep the light bill paid, or you could lie where you mounted it for the 1st year, but at the end of the year you are still hosed.

Bite the bullet get the Heath, never look back, all others are not worth having, unless you have steady stream of used but good ones available. But that is my opinion, some folks agree some folks don't.

Warranty on Heath is generally transferrable (selling point) should you decide to succumb to the "dark forces" and sell your 6.5 :D :nono: :D, FWIW I'm headed into year 5 on the one in my truck, year 3 on Burb.
 
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