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95 Chevy 1ton possible steering issues.

FellowTraveler said:
Pull on your brake pedal see if it sticking.
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I had thought about that, it returns all the way up when I release. when I have my foot on it and kill the engine is the only time it will sink to the floor. When I release and try pressing again (engine off) it's hard and wont sink down like that again. when I first discovered it, I was thinking the MC was bad. but it seems to hold good otherwise.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Just looked at it. The pedal only has a little play maybe 1/2 inch but it feels more like linkage play in the pedal. I wouldn’t think that would be an issue
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No, you'd know it if the pedal was stuck like @FellowTraveler was alluding to. Unless EVERYTHING is brand new, there will be wear in the clevis and pin of the pedal and actuator rod and the pivot and shaft of the pedal. A ½" of play isn't unreasonable at the pedal pad at all.

Thought, is the actuator rod hanging up where it passes through the firewall or into the back of the HB unit? Slightly "applying" the brakes that way (enough to demand fluid flow, but not enough to actually apply the brakes) could be the cause of the pump whine. Interesting that it didn't whine when you deadheaded the pump with the gauge, but did again as soon as you hooked up the system again.

You have checked the obvious, no send/return hoses/piping reversed, right?
 
Husker6.5 said:
No, you'd know it if the pedal was stuck like @FellowTraveler was alluding to. Unless EVERYTHING is brand new, there will be wear in the clevis and pin of the pedal and actuator rod and the pivot and shaft of the pedal. A ½" of play isn't unreasonable at the pedal pad at all.

Thought, is the actuator rod hanging up where it passes through the firewall or into the back of the HB unit? Slightly "applying" the brakes that way (enough to demand fluid flow, but not enough to actually apply the brakes) could be the cause of the pump whine. Interesting that it didn't whine when you deadheaded the pump with the gauge, but did again as soon as you hooked up the system again.

You have checked the obvious, no send/return hoses/piping reversed, right?
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The whine is only present at higher rpms. When I had the gauge installed I wasn’t sure if revving it would ruin the pump since the gauge was stopping all flow! I have looked over it making sure the pressure lines were in the right places and the return lines not kinked or something though I haven’t messed with the return lines yet. I wanted to wait till my filter arrived.

The pressure line from the pump is connected to the HB on the side towards the engine and the other pressure line towards the drivers fender goes to the gear on the side further away from the frame.

the return on the gear (closest to the frame) runs to the cooler and then to the lower inlet on the pump housing. The other return line on the HB goes straight to the upper inlet on the pump housing.
It kinda sounds like a Ford whine but only at rpms over 12-1500 just not as loud ( Fords are a lot louder lol )

being the pump was showing 1700 psi and doing online searching finding most pumps are rated at 800 to 1200 has gotten me wondering if the control valve in the pump is somehow stuck and pushing all it’s got all the time. I’m wondering if when I flushed it and the one or two times it starved for low fluid made the valve “flutter” and jam if that makes any sense. Or another theory is since installing new lines (old ones could have had maybe some resistance in flow) the HB is causing it sine possibly has a dead accumulator and the noise is just resonating throughout the whole system

driving home today from work I had my ear mostly out the window listening carefully for the noises. Today was a rather cool afternoon as it had been raining and a cool front blew in this afternoon. I really didn’t start hearing the whine until the truck was almost up to temp. As I got closer to the house the whine got gradually more noticeable until it was heard over the quiet sing from the turbo.

I have a union fitting where I can actually bypass the HB from the whole system. I haven’t tried but I could see if the whine is still there with just the gear. Any thoughts on this?
 
WarWagon mentioned also about hose routing where one of the hoses up against something can be the cause. I initially thought this also but when I had the laptop on the truck making it hold the idle up so I could try finding where the noise was coming from. I held the hoses by hand and couldn’t feel anything like it resonating so I dismissed it as the issue. I think I’m gonna have another look. The pressure line from the HB going to the gear is up against the bracket on the abs routed between it and the washer fluid bottle then turns down going to the gear. I had wanted to route both hoses from the HB down under it and to the pump and gear but it didn’t work out that way (wanted a cleaner area instead of all the steel lines wrapping over the MC).

Watch.. I go and re-route that line and fix the problem. And WarWagon is gonna laugh his head off “I told you so” and I’m gonna go beat my head against the wall!
 
Well guys, I rerouted that hose last night, drove to work and back today and the noise still remains. none of the hoses are touching anything but at the connections. rather than chasing this thing I might as well just run it until I can get a chance to at least stop by the local brake and alignment shop I had taken it to when I had the alignment done and have the mechanic have a look at it.

I do have an intresting to me but probably dumb curiosity on the PS fluid I used. I know Will L. mentioned to use dextron 3 after I had already used the O'reilly's power steering fluid. this fluid has the same exact sweet smell as the nuto H68 hydraulic fluid we use at work in the equipment when it gets warm. I know the smell probably means nothing, but it caught my attention when I was checking the level when it was hot.
 
MrMarty51 said:
I have always been curious to an idea of if tractor hydraulic oil would work just as good as ATF or PS oil.
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I think it’s all one in the same honestly just with different conditioners added for seals or for gear boxes and such. Some thicker and others thinner in viscosity. At work we use regular ole 15-40 motor oil in the PS systems in the yard mules (old road trucks we’ve taken off the road)
 
Been doing a little research online about pump flows and pressure and temperatures for different vehicles. Also noticed the markings on my new hoses I used showing rated for 5000 psi at between-20 to +100 deg c.
I think I do have an apparent problem with seeing the fluid temperature up around 180-190 in about a 6 mile drive from work to the house nearing the upper limits of the hose rated temp.

durring my internet exploration I found these pdf's online showing some interesting info for our pumps on pressures and flows. one is some technical data on aftermarket flow valves for Saginaw pumps used in our trucks and many other applications. the other is about modification and some details at to how it all works together. reading these as reference and not actually doing any modification at all, I'm leaning toward this conclusion...

since mine is showing apparently maximum pressures of 1700 (maybe a little more than what it should be pushing) and It's generating heat quickly, plus has a factory cooler installed. I really need to get my hands on a flow meter first, but I'm putting my finger on the idea that there is something wrong with the relief valve that's inside the pump behind the flow valve fitting or the actual flow valve fitting is not the right one for my truck (again back to the remanufactured crap just slapped together on a mass production line). coming back to the same thing, the pump is just pushing everything it's got at all times not allowing it to go into bypass hence the whine from stressing the pump at it's limits.

If I get a chance, Ill stop by the brake / alignment shop after work before the weekend and ask for an opinion. the owner there has been a mechanic for more years than I've been alive and about the only shop in town I trust. He's old school, a mechanic that knows whats wrong before you even park and walk into the office kind of guy!
 

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I not only have the large cooler but the factory in chassis rail cooler too...anything over stock pressure requires the extra cooler for the p/s.
I chose AMSOIL P/S fluid because of its higher temp rating...
 
dbrannon79 said:
I'm putting my finger on the idea that there is something wrong with the relief valve
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When you dead headed the pump: The "relief valve" either opened up or you would have blown something up. If the belt didn't slip first. It's a fixed displacement vane pump. 1 rotation moves "X" amount of oil that can't be compressed. It either flows through the system or flows through the "relief valve" internally.

Like a garden hose: the pump should have low pressure when running, but, flow. When you step on the brakes you close a spool valve (like kinking the hose) that restricts flow and generates more pressure. Same with turning the steering wheel: it moves a spool valve restricting flow that generates pressure to help turn the wheels. The brake reserve accumulator also can restrict flow to pressurize itself up. Have you ever noticed the pump go from working pressure to the "hiss" as you hit the "stops" when turning? The hoses literally jump from the sudden pressure change. Loose belts tend to sequel when you hit the stop. So when things quit moving in the steering with the spool valve directing flow to the working piston: the oil flow at maximum pressure is now going through the "relief valve" in the pump. It's sucking some power from the engine to hold the wheels at the stop and hissing at you.

I am not sure on your running hot as to what the systems run at. A high pressure leak can generate heat. So can a bad bearing.

If you had a flow restriction generating pressure I could see that being a high pressure leak heating things up quick. Say if the accumulator was jammed but not restricting 100% of the flow. We already know the hydrobooster isn't doing whet it should.

This is where the pressure gauges in the system tell you what is going on.
 
Hey guys. I was just fooling around today. Had ordered a condenser fan that I think should be slim enough to fit behind the grill to help the AC out while sitting in traffic. Also to do something with the stock PS cooler. But I have a question. I removed the grill and the horn to make room for the fan and discovered this two wire connector here between the oil and trans coolers. Does anyone know what it’s for or should be connected to?
 

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