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94 Explorer

trouttrooper

Big Blocks ROCK!!!
Messages
1,884
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Location
Caldwell, ID
Part of me can't believe I did it :D . Swore all through HS I would never own a Ford. Guess my HS buddy finally got the best of me.

Just picked up a 94 Explorer 4x4 5 speed manual 4.0 v6 for $900. I'll get pics, probably tomorrow. Body is straight with only a couple dings in the front quarter panel. No rust issues. Needs some TLC on the inside for broken things like door handles and dash parts. Nothing a few trips to the junkyard can't fix. Clutch was replaced last year. We'll see how big of a project this ends up being. I think I managed a good deal. Previous owner said it burned about 3/4 quart per 3,000 miles. This will be the replacement for the Saturn. I just don't drive as much anymore so needing an uber economic car isn't as necessary. Having something on the smaller side that's still 4wd is more important to me now. Tried finding an old cherokee or blazer for several months but just couldn't find the right fixer upper. I'm partial to manual transmissions when it comes to older vehicles which eliminates a huge percentage of what's for sale.
 
yes. based on my experience with chevy auto hubs of the 80's I'll probably be replacing them with manual ones
 
They failed pretty easily. We had a 94 for a few years. I found that if you engaged 4x4 before you were actually stuck they were pretty good but if you engaged it after you were stuck you'd usually blow them out. It was a pretty good rig otherwise. Sold it when we needed more room.
 
So apparently my problem is once I start working I forget to take pics. Spent my Saturday afternoon at the local U-pull salvage yard. Picked up 3 interior door panels, drivers side mirror, battery tie down, transfer case shift motor, front drive shaft, and an assortment of bolts. Loved every minute roaming the yard :D . Back home I've been removing the aftermarket stereo wiring rats nest throughout the interior, getting the RR door latch fixed so you can open it from the outside, removed driver's door and replace hinge pins/bushings (had to lift up the door to close it they were so worn out), drilled out the broken bolt for the battery tie down and re-tapped for a slightly bigger bolt, and replaced driver's side mirror. Not too bad for the first weekend.

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I'd like to pick your guys brain a little too. Long story short, my Explorer has manual windows, and I want to keep it that way. Interior panels for manual cranks had a huge design flaw and the pull handle rips off very easy. The few junkyard Explorers that have manual windows are torn off like mine. There is no aftermarket panels for manual windows. I have panels off of an electric window version, but they are wider (thicker) so the window crank needs about an 2 inch extension. Any thoughts on how to make one so it's splined properly on both ends? Everything else will line up and work. Thought about a custom part from a welding/metal shop, but I'm guessing that could be more expensive than I'm willing to pay.
 
Can you post pics of panel and door behind handle?

Possible to install nutserts of something to use original panel, but secure handle to metal instead of just panel.

Other than adapters: maybe cut and weld short dowel in between to lengthen the crank rod? I would think way less labor than cutting in the knurled pattern to something.
 
Original panel on the left designed for manual crank. Replacement panel on the right. You can see the hole I've drilled where the crank needs to go through.

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Looking straight down through where the window buttons would be. You can see with it mounted on the door it needs about 1 1/2 inches more length.

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View from above showing the difference in width.

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Pretty hack job thinking, but can you find another vehicle with crank windows ( matching splines to a Exploder), cut the stub off that vehicle with a grinder as far back as you can(or prolly hacksaw since you'll be in a bone yard) and then cut the splined end off yours and weld the new stub to your current stub for an "extension". Not sure if that's cast aluminum or pot metal? Its the cheapest way i can think about doing this. Plus the weld will be hidden behind your panel.

Looks like the stub might protrude from a "raised' part of the panel too. Might have to extend it out pretty far so the crank doesn't bind against the panel.

EDIT: Didn't read the other posts that beat me too it.
 
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Or non weld option: junkyard parts needed: 2window crank arms (guessing plastic?)and regulator shafts. Cut of the shafts and epoxy them to the back center of window crank,cutting of the arm of the crank. (Leroy jokes coming in 3,2,1)Then the female end can slip on your existing shaft.

You can install from inside that access of you 2nd pic. This will let the new shaft stick out far enough through the deeper panel. Is it attached by a screw? If so drill out the new shaft, right threw the new crank center and go buy new longer screws.
 
Time flies when you're having fun :D . The past couple days have been spent removing the front hubs and axles to re-grease and replace anything needed. Had to replace 2 of the wheel bearings, one had a dent and the other had some rust pitting. Got everything done except I was an idiot tonight and didn't have one of the hubs on correct and it cracked when I started torquing on the lug nuts. Guess I make another trip to the junkyard. Also acquired the correct bolts to attach the front driveshaft and installed the shifter motor on the transfer case. Did a temporary check and the 4wd system works!!! including the little lights in the dash.

Driver's spindle cleaned and new lip seal installed.
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Driver's side completed, including new brake pads.
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Hub after I cleaned it. 20160214_184610.jpg

Passenger side after getting spindle off. Royal PITA, took a LOT of pounding with my BFH.
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Hub and spindle before cleaning. I think the grease is original from '94. Nasty.20160214_184858.jpg

New axle shaft seal on left, old one on right. Notice a difference?? I'd say they were a little worn out. 20160214_185355.jpg

Inside of the rotor cleaned and ready for the new wheel bearing. 20160214_185406.jpg

All the parts cleaned and ready to be put back on the spindle. Well, except the lip seal on the left, that goes on the inside of the rotor. 20160214_185414.jpg
 
new plan for the door panels. going to keep the original panels so i don't have to try to figure out how to roll the windows up and down. saw where another guy made his own pull handles out of wood. didn't look bad. mine won't be as fancy, but will be functional. probably paint them to match the panel color. pics will follow.......
 
Spent another glorious saturday afternoon wandering the isles of the U pull junkyard. Acquired an assortment of dash parts, bolts, screws, clips, pedal pads, "new" hub, and believe it or not I managed to find a lug wrench and jack crank bar that was still in an explorer. I think mainly because it was the last row of vehicles and somebody had tossed it underneath a bunch of crap under the back seat when they were taking the front apart of that particular explorer. I almost didn't see it.

At home I cleaned up all the sensors that were triggering the CEL, and replaced some vacuum hoses that were leaking. Engine is running a lot smoother now. Still has an overall shake at low idle that I'm still trying to determine the true cause. Also, fabricated up pull handles for all 4 doors. Not exactly showroom quality, but I'm sorely lacking any proper power sanding tools and also I wanted this done asap. Took a trim piece in and had some paint colored to match. Who knows, maybe someday I'll take more time and make them look better. Anyway, here's what they look like.

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