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93 6.5l Injection pump

Fuel Screw. Easiest way is to remove the intake (can be done without removing, but I HIGHLY!!! recommend removing it. Takes 15min to remove. Avoid the headache!) Then remove the triangle plate on the side of the injection pump, drivers side. Two tiny screws. Can remove one and loosen the other to let it swing down. Do not loose screws. Have a extendable magnet handy just in case. Be careful of the gasket on the backside of this plate. You can now see the insides. Have someone rotate the motor over by hand very slowly (breaker bar recommended, will have to remove front skid plate) while looking inside the pump. You will eventually see a tiny hole with a allen head in it (5/16 or 5/32, can't remember. Make sure it is a good set of allens you have. Don't want one breaking off. I also recommend a new set personally, just in case. Insert allen head, rotate clockwise as desired. I would go about a quarter turn for 12-15psi on stock GM turbo, half turn if a turbo swap is done or anticipated. I have a half turn on mine and with both the HX35 and ATT it was fine. EGT's have never exceeded 1050* yet. I never tried a half turn on GM turbo but I hear bad things EGT wise. I wouldnt recommend it. Please do this safely and in the quest for reliable power, and not just to blow black smoke. Also, advancing the pump timing couldn't hurt either. I have my lines touching and she rockets and runs good! Probably am forgetting something. Someone will chime in I'm sure
 
Is there anything else that can be done to the DB2 beyond turning turning the IP screw? Also "open plenum", is that a modified OEM or aftermarket?
 
I think they are using 4 plunger pumps though. If not then I would think upgraded large size plungers. And you can do the feed the beast mod which you may a well do when the intake is off already to do your fuel. Wish I would have. No time though. The fuel screw, and some slight advance will go a long ways though.
 
Site below covers it. Top cover is another risky way to do it. If you don't put it back properly the engine runs away. Lots of springs and stuff to remove to get there through the top. A rag under the pump will help you catch parts that fall off like bolts. Removing the intake is risky as I pulled an engine from a worm clamp falling into the intake port during an IP change. You can get the side cover off with the intake on. You will need a mirror.

Use a long ratchet on the alternator pulley bolt to turn the engine over backwards. The other way (normal engine rotation) slips the belt tensioner.

http://www.flashoffroad.com/Diesel/injectionpump/mechanicalpump.htm

Before you turn the pump up your 1993 needs to be able to use the fuel. Here is how you do it:

Better turbo
or
turbo master set to 14 PSI over the stock spring can 6 PSI.

Loose (remove) the snorkel in the fender going to the airbox. There is a small bolt by the battery holding it in. Hair dryer get it hot enough to bend out the air intake air cleaner fender hole.

Recommend 4" exhaust.

Your stock 6.5 pump has more than enough fuel to overwhelm the factory turbo even with a turbomaster. The advance system has trouble on older pumps so a rebuild can help you find some power depending on your pump's condition.
 
I messed with that side plate for hours with the intake on. Was just too much of a pain. If you remove the intake, just throw some tags over the intake ports. Problem solved.
 
Remove the top plate, get the engine in the right spot, use a t-handle with a ball end, fandangle it in there, turn, done. I have the balancer marked on my van, can adjust the fuel in about 15 mins on my van. I have an article the diesel place, I can post pics here.
 
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