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6.5td engine swap

S

SuperChev

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British of Columbia
1995 Chev 6.5 diesel turbo 4l80e truck just hit 406 xxx km anyways sent to start truck truck didn't crank over the starter just freely span pulled the starter out those two bolts that go through to the block the farthest one completely chipped out :mad2:
Found a 6.5 with 300 xxx km for $500 ( needs PMD) or lastly injection pump love the truck how hard is the motor swap? Any tips, tricks or suggestions? Would it maybe make sense converting it to full mechanical?
 
SuperChev said:
1995 Chev 6.5 diesel turbo 4l80e truck just hit 406 xxx km anyways sent to start truck truck didn't crank over the starter just freely span pulled the starter out those two bolts that go through to the block the farthest one completely chipped out :mad2:
Found a 6.5 with 300 xxx km for $500 ( needs PMD) or lastly injection pump love the truck how hard is the motor swap? Any tips, tricks or suggestions? Would it maybe make sense converting it to full mechanical?
Click to expand...

Did it break the ear of the block off? Or can you get the broken bolt out and put new ones in it? Was the starter brace on the other end of the starter that bolts to the block?

As far as converting it to mechanical ip its alot of work you have to put your throttle pedal and cable in and then you have to figure out how to control the tranny. If it runs good the way it is personally i would leave it electronic. Otherwise you either have to got to a standalone controller for the tranny or go to a manual trans
 
Welcome to The Truck Stop. I wish you had found this site before this happened, easily stoppable problem with the bracket
He is mentioning. Can you post pics of it, it might be repairable.

I am a fan of mechanical, but why do you want to swap? There might be better options before you do.
Search "Bobby Martin" for how to on swap. Control of tranny easily done by little goody sold from http://www.leroydiesel.com/

Before getting into major work, mention on here what you are planning. We may be able to save lots of headaches and $.
 
If you've got a good, controlled way to pick the engine from the bay (chainfall or engine hoist on concrete floor), and the truck isn't completely rusted apart it really isn't too hard of a chore. Assuming basic mechanical capabilities of course.

Do some research on what exactly you need to disconnect/take off before you start tearing it apart (there are a couple threads on here about that).

I did what you want to do, took a running 95 from a single cab truck and dropped it into the suburban. Not as bad as I thought it would be, and I've never pulled an engine or put one in before. (My Dad helped though, so factor that in).

I spent a lot of time reading about what had to be done, so I had a good understanding of what I was getting into.

Tips/tricks?
Consider doing some work to the engine you want to drop in. I ended up pulling the engine back out after 1,000 miles to do head gaskets - definitely would have been easier to do when I had it out the 1st time. I wanted to do them when I had it out, but was too impatient to get it in and running :cool:

Pull passenger inner fender definitely. If you can get the downpipe off easily might be worth pulling that as well to give you a bit more room. Not necessary, but might help.

If you use a load leveler (recommended) hook it as low as you can on the engine - otherwise it hits on the firewall and causes problems.

If you don't care for the insulation on the firewall, rip it off. It might be falling apart anyway...and it gives you a lot more room to work with the stuff in the back.

I'm sure there are guys that'll sum up a lot more info that I could, but this'll get you started at least :)

That said: I have no idea if you can fix the bolt issue you are having, but if you've got a running truck and the bolts can be fixed I'd go that route.
 
Not the bracket at the front of the starter if that's what your thinking.. there's 2 bolts I think 1/2 inch and 4 inches long the further one from the oil pan looks like it's been cross threaded to shit heli-coiled and it like cracked off
I'll get some pictures soon
and I figured making it mechanical would be simpler in the long run but I'll leave it electrical, makes sense
 
If you remove the inner fenders stuff is easier to get to.
I just pulled the motor in my k3500 and I got 5 of the 6 bellhousing bolts from below and the drivers side top one from above. It's not too bad the fuel lines are attached to that stud so you have to remove them first.
Be patient with it it only turns about 1/8 at a time.
Total time to pull motor was about 8 hours by my self.
 
The worst two are the drivers side top two, mainly because of the fuel line bracket. If you remove the heads first it helps. I had mine stripped to the block going out. Going back in was intake, heads, ip, etc and it was not as easy.
 
I was able to get the (2) top bell housing bolts easily from the top after moving the fuel filter manager. Again, I don't have any insulation on the firewall, so that helps. The lower (4) - passenger and drivers side, are accessible from below pretty easily. If I remember correctly, only (1) was a real pain, thinking 2nd one up on driver's side? Use/borrow a set of gearwrench ratcheting open end wrenches, they work pretty well.

If you do have the engine out, clean up all of the bolts (specifically the bell housing studs) and chase the threads in the block itself. Make it so you can thread them all the way in by hand, then you only have to tighten them up.
 
To reach the top two bell housing bolts from down below, you need a swivel impact socket and a long extension. Iirc 15mm.
Mac xup15mm or snapon iptmm15. About $40 - well worth it. if your's is 9/16 different part number but you get the idea. Dont waste your time on the harbor freight version for this, the cheap ones cant handle the angles required.
 
Will L. said:
To reach the top two bell housing bolts from down below, you need a swivel impact socket and a long extension. Iirc 15mm.
Mac xup15mm or snapon iptmm15. About $40 - well worth it. if your's is 9/16 different part number but you get the idea. Dont waste your time on the harbor freight version for this, the cheap ones cant handle the angles required.
Click to expand...

Thats how I do mine. The impact driver is close to the tail shaft housing then reach the bolts with a long extension.
 
I haven't used my swivels in years. I just use the wobble extensions. I haven't encountered anything I couldn't get.

I have some 2" extensions I used to get the top bolts
 
I pull the whole front clip for anything from head gaskets to engine removal. I have short arms and cant reach a lot of stuff so its nice to get up close to the parts.
 
How did you do your motor mounts? I've remember reading that you can unbolt your tranny mounts and jack the engine and tranny up and you can get to the engine mounts much easier?
 
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