ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
plull the glows it will crank much easier and faster
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6.5 turbo(gm4) on a 6.2
- Thread starter just a number
- Start date
just a number
Active Member
good time to check them anyways, before I really need them.
Acesneights1
New Member
A 6.2 is usually not that hard to purge. In fact is can start without purging but much happier when you do. Are you holding the Acc at WOT ?
just a number
Active Member
I admit I forgot that part the first couple of tries. but it's been worse than trying to start after changing the filter. I'm wondering if something go messed up in the IP when I adjusted the fuel rate.
just a number
Active Member
my guess was right. turns out I didn't get the shutoff in right. still can't for that matter. can somebody post pics to show me what I'm doing wrong?:???: mostly I need one of where the hook sits when it's all together. more than that would be great.
I missing something,(other than my sanity) I just with I knew what it was:mad2:
EDIT: I know that the LP works just fine. I now have a valley covered in fuel. one more question for you guys and girls. the does anybody happen to know where I can find a pic/diagrams of how the fuel goes through all of the IP.
I missing something,(other than my sanity) I just with I knew what it was:mad2:
EDIT: I know that the LP works just fine. I now have a valley covered in fuel. one more question for you guys and girls. the does anybody happen to know where I can find a pic/diagrams of how the fuel goes through all of the IP.
just a number
Active Member
Well I got the shutoff figured out, and found out why I having issues. turn out I have good fuel pressure but no flow. I think it's plugged at the IP inlet filter. flow is great after the main filter.
Now is the big question. how do ya get the filter out to check it?
is there any other spot the it might have plugged up? the return side is clear.
Now is the big question. how do ya get the filter out to check it?
is there any other spot the it might have plugged up? the return side is clear.
Acesneights1
New Member
IDK but if you give me a day or so I could rip one of my junk ones apart as a ginnuea pig.
just a number
Active Member
right now.I'm rained out anyway. can you take some pics for us need to learn groups. might come in handy for a write later.
Acesneights1
New Member
OK.
just a number
Active Member
I found the screen in the old military manual for a 6.2. you take off the centre cone and it's hiding in there. the older setup(pre'90) have a few more pieces being held in.
still wouldn't mind better pics. or should I say real pics.
thanks for the help.
still wouldn't mind better pics. or should I say real pics.
thanks for the help.
Acesneights1
New Member
Sorry I got home late tonight. I'll see what I can do tomorrow.
Acesneights1
New Member
OK, another broken promise. Sorry. It's like WW3 around here. I see a divorce soon. See what I can do over the weekend.
just a number
Active Member
when you get a chance. I gotta pull the inlet filter again tomorrow anyways. I put the metering screw in to far.:mad2:
I'm sure glad I checked before everything went back together.
I'm sure glad I checked before everything went back together.
just a number
Active Member
well got the screw fixed. now I've still got an issue with flow. I got greast flow all the way up to the IP but hardly anything comes out the return. as in small water bottle=20 min
Acesneights1
New Member
Hmmm... I wish I took this apart before you did. I would check with a re builder. To me it looks like the cone has to be "set". it has a lock on it and a gear which indicates o me it is adjustable which maybe your problem. The screen is pretty big on these so I doubt it would be clogged. I will try to find out about removing the cone and setting it back on properly. It would be really easy to open this thing up while off but given the mech limits of a DB2 I doubt there is any benefit. To me it looks ample enough. BTW you can see the transfer pump in these pics.
It appears to me(remember I am learning here to, I am not a re builder) that if the cone is not properly installed the transfer pump may not work because it seems to hold it together to me. Maybe someone else will chime in. I think Dennis has rebuilt these.
That allen lock I took out was selaed so I believe there to be a tolerance as to the way the cone is set. if you did not take it apart yet, I would not. If you did, you may be pulling the IP off. I am not sure how to set that tolerance.
It appears to me(remember I am learning here to, I am not a re builder) that if the cone is not properly installed the transfer pump may not work because it seems to hold it together to me. Maybe someone else will chime in. I think Dennis has rebuilt these.
That allen lock I took out was selaed so I believe there to be a tolerance as to the way the cone is set. if you did not take it apart yet, I would not. If you did, you may be pulling the IP off. I am not sure how to set that tolerance.
Attachments
just a number
Active Member
well it's been apart twice so no worrries. paint pen is a good friend of mine. cleaned to filter, didn't have much in it bit in the housing. the only things that have been adjust was the fuel screw and the governor. I turn the screw back down some to see if I could get anything but no go. still nothing getting to the injectors and barely anything on the return side.
who's Dennis, or should I say what's his handle?
who's Dennis, or should I say what's his handle?
Acesneights1
New Member
Slimshady the ATT turbo guy. Yeah but that cone has to be preloaded to a certain tolerance and I think that is your problem. If you have it too tight you may have damaged the transfer pump. The fact that it has a sealed allen key lock tells me it should not have been messed with even if you scribed where it original was. That transfer pump to me looks like there is zero room for error. I'll shoot an email to Tim from Accurate diesel and see what he says. He is a really good guy and answers emails quick and will give tech info.
Acesneights1
New Member
OK Tim got back to me.
Here was his reply...
Ken,
Hi!
You are correct in that if the end cap is too loose, there will be excess tolerance in the transfer pump and therefore low output pressure. The important thing is that it is tight. Stanadyne spec is 360 - 440 in-lbs. Without the special socket it would be very difficult to torque it - as long as it is good and tight (without being excessively so) he should not have a problem - a little tight is much preferred over a little loose in this case.
I would venture a guess he is running WVO - very common for this screen to plug under that circumstance.
Happy Dieseling!
Here was his reply...
Ken,
Hi!
You are correct in that if the end cap is too loose, there will be excess tolerance in the transfer pump and therefore low output pressure. The important thing is that it is tight. Stanadyne spec is 360 - 440 in-lbs. Without the special socket it would be very difficult to torque it - as long as it is good and tight (without being excessively so) he should not have a problem - a little tight is much preferred over a little loose in this case.
I would venture a guess he is running WVO - very common for this screen to plug under that circumstance.
Happy Dieseling!
just a number
Active Member
no WVO here. Just dirty fuel lines. forgot to blow it out before installing. i should be well within specs for torque. where else am I missing???? I'm half a$$ tempted to try it without the shutoff in it(not running) just to see if I mucked something up there.
redshift96
Diesel Knucklehead
Okay, so I just had almost identical probs getting any fuel past the pump after replacing both IP and injectors. I mean like, not even a cough from the motor no matter how long or fast I spun it, and barely a hint of fuel at the loosened injector line fittings down at the injectors. Plenty of fuel from the filter air bleed, clear lines from the filter to the IP, and at the IP return showed that there was fuel there with almost no sign of air bubbles. It was truly driving me batty. Figured there must be something wrong with the pump, pulled the screen to check it, and it was fine.
Sooo... wanna know what finally did the trick?
I still had the intake loose, so I pulled it off, and removed the soft line from the IP inlet. Had a friend hold it to a gas can and cranked to make sure I was really getting adequate flow from the FFM. Seemed fine, so I reinstalled the line, and tried cranking again. It started coughing almost immediately... first signs of life since I'd first tried restarting it after all the work. Ran smoothly within a minute or so.
My guess is that either something between the filter and the main fuel inlet or some volume in the pump itself had not been sufficiently purged/primed, even after all the cranking. Sooo... give it a shot. Really hope this helps with your problem as well.
Oh, and thanks much for the inlet cone tightening specifics, Aces... a huge relief to see that I did it more or less correctly, not having had much solid info to go on either.
Sooo... wanna know what finally did the trick?
I still had the intake loose, so I pulled it off, and removed the soft line from the IP inlet. Had a friend hold it to a gas can and cranked to make sure I was really getting adequate flow from the FFM. Seemed fine, so I reinstalled the line, and tried cranking again. It started coughing almost immediately... first signs of life since I'd first tried restarting it after all the work. Ran smoothly within a minute or so.
My guess is that either something between the filter and the main fuel inlet or some volume in the pump itself had not been sufficiently purged/primed, even after all the cranking. Sooo... give it a shot. Really hope this helps with your problem as well.
Oh, and thanks much for the inlet cone tightening specifics, Aces... a huge relief to see that I did it more or less correctly, not having had much solid info to go on either.