6.5 TD guys that tow, need advice fairly quick!

[great white]

Hi all.

We bought a 2011 30 footer (travel trailer) this year. Dry weight 5,228 and GVWR 6629 lbs.

I've got a 98 6.5 "F" 4l80e 4x4 with 4:10 gearing. You can see more in my sig line. Really, the truck is pretty much stock right now.

The dealer just got in a "classic" model which is a 35 footer, dry weight 6389 and gvwr 8597lbs.

My current trailer is unused, since it was bought end of season and we intended to use it first thing in the spring. It still has the wrap on the mattress and the cover on the toilet.

IOW, all I've done is tow it home so I'm not even sure yet how my truck will deal with towing it. I do know that towing it home, my ol' truck didn't hardly even know it was back there. But that was no faster than 60kph (through town) and mostly flat. The few small hills we went over didn't seem to effect anything.

I've towed before, but not with this truck and not with this weight.

We were in to the dealer the other day buying some small bits and saw the bigger model. More storage, atrium windows, bigger floor plan, etc. They offered us a trade in deal (out of our current trailer clean) and a good price on upgrading to the larger model. Basically, just the price difference between the two models.

This is really appealing to us as we really prefer the larger model and probably would have bought it if it had been on the lot when we bought the current 30 footer.

My equalizer hitch is rated well above the weight with the bars installed and the truck is rated in the owners manual for 10,000 lbs with an equalizer hitch. My controller is a Tekonsha P3, which is pretty much their top of the line one. At least it is for Tekonsha....

Neither trailer is a fifth wheel and we don't want to go that way anyways.

I've done the usual clean the rad, it's already got the 9 bladed steel fan and high flow pump form the factory. I'm also a "tuner" and have the proper software for OBDII (tunercat II and my truck's VDF) so I'll be tweaking the program for towing.

My question is should there be much difference between towing either trailer? Will my 98 even care about another 1500-2000 lbs in loaded trailer weight?

We really want to take the deal, I'm just unsure of adding any more load to my 98....

 

[JiFaire]

Buy it, BJ... now you've thought it over, and ya want it, you'll kick yourself if ya don't.

You'll still be pulling less than I was, and mine was easy. You might want to keep moving on that 'build myself a chip' project, though... more HP, better fueling curve, TCC lock, etc will make a big difference, like we told you earlier.

Right now, you don't need that big difference... with a loaded 35', you might.

Think about air bags, too...EQ hitches are great, but air bags are super good for loaded stability.

 

[robzombie4551]

I can't comment as I've never seen a 35 footer that light and find that weight hard to believe.

Is it a stripper aluma light. All the 30 ft. and up I've looked at are in the 10/12,000 range and up dry weight.

Even those weights are doable with the mods for towing listed in the forum.

If the weight you listed is accurate you will be fine.

 

[great white]

I can't comment as I've never seen a 35 footer that light and find that weight hard to believe.

Is it a stripper aluma light. All the 30 ft. and up I've looked at are in the 10/12,000 range and up dry weight.

Even those weights are doable with the mods for towing listed in the forum.

If the weight you listed is accurate you will be fine.

I can only quote the specs the OE has given me:

Flagstaff 831RLBSS (here's a similar linky: http://www.forestriverrvsource.com/rvinventory_item.asp?id=662795)

Dry hitch weight - 851

Over all length - 34' 8" (guess it's a 34 footer)

Unloaded weight - 6,389 lbs

GVWR - 8,597 lbs

It's got lots of aluminum in it, but it's fibreglass shell and power everything. From the slides and awnings to the power tongue and power stabilizers. It ain't no stripper....

It's a 2011 model, so maybe building methods have changed?

Dunno.

Anyways, I'm just after whether or not my 98 is going to handle it in the hills and flats (all three miles of it! :hihi of BC.....

 

[JiFaire]

Like I said, BJ, get the tuning figured out, make sure you have enough exhaust going out and air going in, and find a way to manage TCC, you'll be fine. I pulled more weight, and more air resistance, all over BC, as well as through the Tetons, Cascades, from Jasper down to San Fran and most points between. Mine sucked BAD stock, but the mods made all the difference. Lots of the guys are pulling more weight than that, but they aren't doing it with stock tuning or exhaust.

 

[great white]

Like I said, BJ, get the tuning figured out, make sure you have enough exhaust going out and air going in, and find a way to manage TCC, you'll be fine. I pulled more weight, and more air resistance, all over BC, as well as through the Tetons, Cascades, from Jasper down to San Fran and most points between. Mine sucked BAD stock, but the mods made all the difference. Lots of the guys are pulling more weight than that, but they aren't doing it with stock tuning or exhaust.

Hmmm, what is different about your lockup for towing?

Do you use it like a "brake" on downhills?

I was thinking about buying the BD unit and just turning off the error reporting in the program. That way I can turn it on and off when I need it rather than having a fixed program dealing with it....

 

[JiFaire]

It's not just the error report - it puts the tranny into limp mode which affects shifting. Not sure you can compensate for that... the best way is to command the PCM to manage the TCC differently than stock.

The manual TCC isn't just for downhill braking, although it is mighty handy for that... ... it's more for preventing over-heating than anything else.

When the TCC isn't locked, it does as it's supposed to do - be a torque-multiplier - but it does that at the expense of generating LOTS of heat.

The hot tranny fluid goes to the Radiator and bleeds heat into the coolant, increasing the thermal load on this side of the cooling interface. The thermal balance on these is a bit tight, to begin with, so you can imaging what happens next...

With the TCC set at stock, it will lock up just after 80km in 4th, cruising with a load. hitting any kind of resistance (wind, hill) means you push on the pedal and it unlocks the TCC and starts making heat... more heat than you would make if you could keep it locked and just add more fuel.

 

[great white]

It's not just the error report - it puts the tranny into limp mode which affects shifting. Not sure you can compensate for that... the best way is to command the PCM to manage the TCC differently than stock.

The manual TCC isn't just for downhill braking, although it is mighty handy for that... ... it's more for preventing over-heating than anything else.

When the TCC isn't locked, it does as it's supposed to do - be a torque-multiplier - but it does that at the expense of generating LOTS of heat.

The hot tranny fluid goes to the Radiator and bleeds heat into the coolant, increasing the thermal load on this side of the cooling interface. The thermal balance on these is a bit tight, to begin with, so you can imaging what happens next...

With the TCC set at stock, it will lock up just after 80km in 4th, cruising with a load. hitting any kind of resistance (wind, hill) means you push on the pedal and it unlocks the TCC and starts making heat... more heat than you would make if you could keep it locked and just add more fuel.

I see......

 

[WarWagon]

I just towed some 31' and 30' trailers with my 1993.

It isn't a dually.

Trucks going by take both hands on the wheel. Wind coming up is also a challenge. Best speed is 62 MPH for power and MPG as well as handling trailer sway from wind and trucks.

I would recommend skipping the longer, heaver, and harder to park trailer. That extra storage will get used and before you know it you will be out of rear spring on the truck.

Use the extra funds for fuel and see more via travel...

 

[great white]

Yup, it's official.

I'm nuts.

We went for the deal.

I pick up the 2011 Flagstaff Classic Super Lite 831RLBSS later this week....

 

[robzombie4551]

You sure it is rated in lbs. not kg.

Was just wondering. There is no way on god's green earth [pardon the pun] a 35 footer ways 6500 lbs.

Is there less gravity in canada :rolleyes5::skep:

But you own it now and love it that's all that matters:agreed::thumbsup:

 

[great white]

You sure it is rated in lbs. not kg.

Was just wondering. There is no way on god's green earth [pardon the pun] a 35 footer ways 6500 lbs.

Is there less gravity in canada :rolleyes5::skep:

But you own it now and love it that's all that matters:agreed::thumbsup:

Here's the specs right from the brochure once again:

2011 Flagstaff Superlight Classic 831 RLBSS

Dry hitch weight 851 lbs (386 KG)

unloaded vehicle weight 6389 Lbs (2898 KG)

GVWR 8587 lbs (3900 KG)

Cargo capacity 1900 lbs (862 KG)

exterior length 34 ft 8 in

2010 brochure pdf: http://www.forestriverinc.com/nd/ultralight/Flagstaff/brochures/flagstaff2010.pdf

The earth must be greener in Canada I guess......

 

[NVW]

Well BJ, you'll get practice tuning your truck to tow. The weight won't be a problem but wind drag may be.

I've towed triple that weight but not in B.C.

 

[Dieseldad97]

BJ, congrats on the new camper. My 30' fifth wheel is a 1985 and it's real heavy (10k+) and I have really no issues pulling it around. You should be fine. The only issue will be the side wind. You have an awefull lot of resistance. I hope to be looking at your camping pics next spring.

 

[great white]

BJ, congrats on the new camper. My 30' fifth wheel is a 1985 and it's real heavy (10k+) and I have really no issues pulling it around. You should be fine. The only issue will be the side wind. You have an awefull lot of resistance. I hope to be looking at your camping pics next spring.

Maybe, but I've got an active sway control equalizer hitch that may make it a wee bit less stressful.

Linky:

http://www.huskytow.com/PressRelease/Center_Line.pdf

http://www.huskytow.com/FTP/PDF/P01045_HTCH_CenterLinePDF.pdf

 

[Ed HD]

Well, if you do have issues, you could always get a nice shiny Duramax to pull that trailer. I know ours pulled a 35' or so camper, and there was nothing back there, except for when it was windy, LOL. Those equalizer hitches are the shiznit tho.