Hey guys I'm new here and just wanted to hear what y'all think about swapping a 6.5 and nv4500 into a half ton 97 extended cab regular bed z71... Right now the truck is a 350 and 4l60e with a shredded rear end... I have a donor truck for the motor and transmission and I'm going to try to find a 14 bolt for the rear. Any advice is greatly appreciated
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6.5 swap
- Thread starter J_Oppie02
- Start date
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
It’ll fit. Have to swap over the clutch components.
I’m not sure about the computer equipment though.
Welcome to the forum.
I’m not sure about the computer equipment though.
Welcome to the forum.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Make sure it is ok to register where you live. Some places rule that out now.
You won’t get the dash cluster working, so that has to be dealt with also.
You won’t get the dash cluster working, so that has to be dealt with also.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Just find a truck with a diesel and avoid all the work and be done with it...
Will L.
Well-Known Member
On the donor truck, just swap the dash with the complete harness system is what I was trying to say. Having a complete donor truck is the best way to do it.
People have done duramax and cummins, along with the 2 stroke Detroit 53 series. It is all a case of what you want and what you are trying to do with it.
The 6.5 is an economic engine- all the work you can do yourself, components are cheap except for the long block. Make sure you know the pitfalls of this engine and address them before dropping the engine in. Then you can get decent pulling torque while getting good mpg for basically 300,000 miles. And as for going fast- so long as a race car is in the trailer you are towing.
The duramax and cummins are more desirable by the masses right now by groups that want to go fast. Detroit done by those that tow heavy and are not in a hurry- but want 600,000 miles from it. Having the tools and knowledge of repairs should be the second biggest reason someone goes with a particular engine. Proper application should be the first.
The biggest heartbreak reason that goes up in flames all the time is- “i got this wrecked one cheap, so I’ll use it”.
Jumping into a project and spending a lot of time and $ to figure out you now have something you dont want happens frequently.
Don’t make that mistake. It’s like driving somewhere on a trip- you need to know EXACTLY where you want to end up before you begin or you will have a lot of wasted time and money. Your question of what other diesel swap looks like this is your situation.
Why this exact truck, why diesel, and what uses really need to be approached at first 3 steps in this journey.
People have done duramax and cummins, along with the 2 stroke Detroit 53 series. It is all a case of what you want and what you are trying to do with it.
The 6.5 is an economic engine- all the work you can do yourself, components are cheap except for the long block. Make sure you know the pitfalls of this engine and address them before dropping the engine in. Then you can get decent pulling torque while getting good mpg for basically 300,000 miles. And as for going fast- so long as a race car is in the trailer you are towing.
The duramax and cummins are more desirable by the masses right now by groups that want to go fast. Detroit done by those that tow heavy and are not in a hurry- but want 600,000 miles from it. Having the tools and knowledge of repairs should be the second biggest reason someone goes with a particular engine. Proper application should be the first.
The biggest heartbreak reason that goes up in flames all the time is- “i got this wrecked one cheap, so I’ll use it”.
Jumping into a project and spending a lot of time and $ to figure out you now have something you dont want happens frequently.
Don’t make that mistake. It’s like driving somewhere on a trip- you need to know EXACTLY where you want to end up before you begin or you will have a lot of wasted time and money. Your question of what other diesel swap looks like this is your situation.
Why this exact truck, why diesel, and what uses really need to be approached at first 3 steps in this journey.
Well I'm really wanting a good daily that has decent mpg and can haul hay and cattle when I need it to. I thought about a Cummins but from what I have heard the 6.5 will be easier to do. The donor truck has the old dash and the truck I want to put it in is a 97 it has the new dash... Also I'm not a big fan of gas trucks or auto transmissions lol
Jaryd
Extremely Deplorable
I see that the gas truck is a 97. What year is the diesel truck?
And what makes you think the #2 hand grenade diesel to the Olds 5.7 and Ford 6.0 Diesels is a good choice for this? The 350 Gas engine likely gets the same MPG towing as the asthma attack turbo on the 6.5TD. Bluntly the 350 gas engine is a better engine AND you can rebuild it where a 6.5 is usually cracked to death and considered scrap in the professional engine rebuilding world. Lots of cash, pain, and heartache to find out the project 6.5 engine you are dropping in has lots of blowby, cracked heads, cracked main webs in the block, etc.
The brakes on the 1/2 tons of this era sucked, period. The 6.5L diesel is heavier than the 5.7L meaning front end springs etc.
The NV4500 has problems all of it's own. I prefer the NV5600 myself, but, look to a MD truck for a real MT that can go the distance vs. either of the NV troublemakers. If you are going to go through the trouble make the damn MT worth the trouble not making trouble with the NV 4500 5th gear nut backing off from their poor design. Or oiling problems in the NV5600. Parts? What parts as the factory shut down in the mid 2000's.
You need to pay attention to the EPA crackdown and the Green New Deal people now in office. This makes dropping a diesel in a gas VIN a very bad idea anymore. Today it may be possible, but, tomorrow you may not be able to register it.
It's a better idea to buy a diesel truck with everything good to go even a 6.5TD. The gas engine trucks of TODAY get better MPG than the 6.5L diesel ever did as a daily driver. 14 MPG on a 6.5TD daily driver, 10 MPG in town vs. 18 MPG for a modern gas engine daily driver. Modern DEF DPF diesels get better MPG at 18 MPG. My 2003 Cummins with the NV5600 would get 21 MPG with the AC off. YMMV.
I'm basically building a 3/4 ton truck on a 1/2 ton frame... New axles springs motor trans etc. I ALREADY HAVE FULL ACCESS TO A 6.5 MANUAL box truck... Yes I know the 6.5 isn't the best option but I like them and it fits in the truck... Sure they have problems but I plan on putting about $2500 into the motor and transmission before they ever touch the truck... If I didn't have the donor truck I would likely do a 12v or 4-53t Detroit... Would love the 453 but I have no idea what trans to use and it would cost so much more... Also what y'all think about a 59 f600 with a 7.3 and zf6
The 4-53t would be cool, but, again start with a diesel VIN and a 2500 or 3500. Don't limit yourself by the wimpy 1/2 ton door sticker cargo/towing capability numbers. Emissions are also different for a 1/2 ton "Light Duty" than 3/4 and 1 Ton "Heavy Duty".
Unless you have the oil pan off the 6.5 and have inspected the main webs for cracks you don't know if the engine if worth more than it's weight in scrap metal.
Unless you have the oil pan off the 6.5 and have inspected the main webs for cracks you don't know if the engine if worth more than it's weight in scrap metal.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Wait, 2500 each or 2500 for both engine and transmission? If 2500 each- nope. Not gonna happen.
5k engine, $5k trans, electrical, etc.
Lets cover the stuff to the 6.5, provided the block and heads are all good.
If you don’t do this basic stuff now, plan on it very soon. Sure one will run, but if you want it reliable- this is minimum what it takes:
Balancing lower half and any other machine work needed
Gaskets & silicone
New harmonic balancer and belt pulley
New injectors
New rings
New lower and cam bearings
Head studs or new tty head bolts
Timing chain
Freeze plugs
Valve job
New valve springs and rocker pins
Glow plugs
Proper lift pump and filter system.
What the heck ip are you running? Hopefully the db2, but some prefer the ds4.
Now you said you are actually towing, so hope you know the stock turbo is horrible. That need to go before you ever hope to get good mpg.
So provided you have the specialty tools to do all this yourself - you know like the timing tools for the injection pump no matter which one you use, Rear main seal installer, etc. or if you have or know someone to borrow those tools from- you just blew through that $5,000.
Diesels are an expensive investment. You can try it without doing it all right from the beginning- so long as you find good deals at the junkyard near you to keep swapping engines. To think you get a reliable, tow worthy, efficient diesel - no matter what brand for anywhere near as cheap as a gasser- not very likely. You need to go into the library and just spend some hours reading and learning, for real. You’re gonna need that knowledge if you do this anyways- so know what you are getting into. Realize that list above didn’t include things like the improved starter and cables you ought to do, the cooling upgrades you will HAVE to do. Read:
5k engine, $5k trans, electrical, etc.
Lets cover the stuff to the 6.5, provided the block and heads are all good.
If you don’t do this basic stuff now, plan on it very soon. Sure one will run, but if you want it reliable- this is minimum what it takes:
Balancing lower half and any other machine work needed
Gaskets & silicone
New harmonic balancer and belt pulley
New injectors
New rings
New lower and cam bearings
Head studs or new tty head bolts
Timing chain
Freeze plugs
Valve job
New valve springs and rocker pins
Glow plugs
Proper lift pump and filter system.
What the heck ip are you running? Hopefully the db2, but some prefer the ds4.
Now you said you are actually towing, so hope you know the stock turbo is horrible. That need to go before you ever hope to get good mpg.
So provided you have the specialty tools to do all this yourself - you know like the timing tools for the injection pump no matter which one you use, Rear main seal installer, etc. or if you have or know someone to borrow those tools from- you just blew through that $5,000.
Diesels are an expensive investment. You can try it without doing it all right from the beginning- so long as you find good deals at the junkyard near you to keep swapping engines. To think you get a reliable, tow worthy, efficient diesel - no matter what brand for anywhere near as cheap as a gasser- not very likely. You need to go into the library and just spend some hours reading and learning, for real. You’re gonna need that knowledge if you do this anyways- so know what you are getting into. Realize that list above didn’t include things like the improved starter and cables you ought to do, the cooling upgrades you will HAVE to do. Read:
6.2 and 6.5 Technical Reference Library
Guides, Part lists, How-To-DIY, and other Technical information for the 6.2 and 6.5 Series
www.thetruckstop.us
Maybe I should have mentioned that I plan on putting to engine on the stand and doing each thing as I have the cash to do so... It's going to be a huge project I understand that but I already have the 1/2 and it runs other than the rear end which I'm putting a 14 bolt and 3/4 ton springs... And where I live we don't have emissions... And I've known quite a few people who swapped diesels into gassers and registered them... Im okay with spending 5000 on the motor it's not all coming out of my pocket at the same time I appreciate you looking out for me in a way but the olny thing you said that I didn't know was checking for cracked blocks. Is that a common occurrence in these truck
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Get the engine in the stand and get the liquids drained.
Pull the pan and look closely along the webs in the block where the main bearing caps is bolted. Quite a good chance there will be cracks in those areas.
Pop off the heads. Get them reassembly clean, look for cracks between the valve seats. There is a repair kit for those, unless the cracks extend into the seats.
If there are cracks in any of the areas mentioned then, scrap that block and heads.
The reason the harmonic balancer is mentioned is, the originals last for only about 100,000 miles, if that, then, they need replacement.
If a faulty HB has been run for any distance, thats what causes the blocks to crack. The best option is the fluid dampener that Leroy Diesel sells. Be sure to pay the extra and rent his HB removal/installer tool. Without that kit, You will play HE double hockey sticks to hold the cranking shaft still to get the HB bolt tightened.
Pull the pan and look closely along the webs in the block where the main bearing caps is bolted. Quite a good chance there will be cracks in those areas.
Pop off the heads. Get them reassembly clean, look for cracks between the valve seats. There is a repair kit for those, unless the cracks extend into the seats.
If there are cracks in any of the areas mentioned then, scrap that block and heads.
The reason the harmonic balancer is mentioned is, the originals last for only about 100,000 miles, if that, then, they need replacement.
If a faulty HB has been run for any distance, thats what causes the blocks to crack. The best option is the fluid dampener that Leroy Diesel sells. Be sure to pay the extra and rent his HB removal/installer tool. Without that kit, You will play HE double hockey sticks to hold the cranking shaft still to get the HB bolt tightened.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
I would just love to pull the engine from My truck and do a rebuild, 260,000 miles on it, but, I have a solid fear that I will find a cracked block or heads so I will just keep running this engine as it is until it gets blowby or it blows up.
Also, if You find that Your block is rebuildable, go in with the gapless piston rings. I have read that the gapless rings will keep the oil from turning black in the first five minutes of run time.
Also, if You find that Your block is rebuildable, go in with the gapless piston rings. I have read that the gapless rings will keep the oil from turning black in the first five minutes of run time.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Every thing I know about these engines, I have learned from the nice people of this forum. Give them all the credit.
I did have limited knowledge of what it takes to keep these engines on the road, through My pre retirement job of being a mechanic for the Montana DOT as they had a fleet of these things. Mainly one ton dually dump body trucks. I did not know about such things as faulty HBs and cracked blocks/heads etc until I joined this forum.