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6.2 vs 6.5

Dunedain15

Dunedain15

Active Member
Messages
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Location
Lebanon, PA
Well, I'm about 6 months into owning a 2001 Burb with a 5.3 in it. Per WarWagon's prediction, it's not doing it for me. I miss the noise, smell and power. Plus, this thing started breaking about a month after I bought it. Needs some serious dollars put into it, and I just wanna get back to my diesel. So...

6.2 or 6.5? I rarely tow, and, when I do, it's not crazy. It has to be a Suburban with all three rows. It has to be 4x4. It must have rear A/C (my girls get car sick). Other than that, I'm open to discussion. Due to the fact that I don't tow, I'm leaning toward a 6.2 to get M'sPG. I also don't particularly care about ABS/airbags, and I really like the old square body. I won't be able to make a purchase until tax return time, but I wanted to start gleaning wisdom now so I can keep an eye out and do more educated research. Thank you for your thoughts.
 
A 6.5 is a bored out 6.2. Different injector angle in the heads and a few other minor differences.

Turbo or NA, now that is the question.

NA just doesn't get out of it's own way so a aftermarket turbo on a 6.2 or 6.5 is the way to go. The correct turbo choice for you is where the real debate is at. Aftermarket turbo's give you power and MPG.

OBS with the DB2 and no expensive PMD to F up is near bullet proof, but, the transmissions were tricky. Going 30 years old vs. 20 does have minor reliability trade offs. I don't think we ever got the transfer case to quit leaking on our 1988 from NEW. Glow plug control is more modern/reliable on the 1994+.
 
Last edited:
tanman_2006 said:
Probably doesn't have rear air

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/4793049960.html

http://wichita.craigslist.org/cto/4787857220.html

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/4741200344.html
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If I could fit a bus in my driveway, I'd be all over it. I have about 6 inches on each side of my car to spare with the Suburban I currently have. Can't do dually. I saw that "military" one on the deal-finder thread. I really like the look of it. Maybe it'll still be there come Jan/Feb. I've been looking at Yukons/Tahoes, but my wife and I decided we really need the space behind the third row. Sorry; should have put that in my first post. That really narrows it down to Suburbans. Thanks for looking, Tanner.

WarWagon said:
A 6.5 is a bored out 6.2. Different injector angle in the heads and a few other minor differences.

Turbo or NA, now that is the question.

NA just doesn't get out of it's own way so a aftermarket turbo on a 6.2 or 6.5 is the way to go. The correct turbo choice for you is where the real debate is at. Aftermarket turbo's give you power and MPG.

OBS with the DB2 and no expensive PMD to F up is near bullet proof, but, the transmissions were tricky. Going 30 years old vs. 20 does have minor reliability trade offs. I don't think we ever got the transfer case to quit leaking on our 1988 from NEW. Glow plug control is more modern/reliable on the 1994+.
Click to expand...

So is there really not a huge difference in mileage between the 6.5 and the 6.2? From what I've read, it seems like people are reporting significantly higher MPG on the 6.2. That's really the only reason I was leaning that way. I loved my '98 6.5, and I'd be happy with another one if you guys think that's the way to go.
 
Part of the conversion decison is going to depend on whether PA will allow the IDI in a 2001 MY chassis. Might have to plan on a DMax and Allison.
 
JayTheCPA said:
Part of the conversion decison is going to depend on whether PA will allow the IDI in a 2001 MY chassis. Might have to plan on a DMax and Allison.
Click to expand...

Sorry for the confusion. I'm not planning a conversion. I'm planning on going with a different vehicle completely. I don't have the know-how/space/tools for a conversion.
 
Burning oil said:
I'd sell my Burb, but its 2wd.
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Yours is the one 2WD I'd consider. That'd be like buying Willie Nelson's guitar or John Wayne's horse. I figured you'd already sold it by now. You first listed it on here quite a while ago. The problem I have is they don't plow the road I live on. Last winter, there were a couple times we wouldn't have made it out of or into our driveway without the 4WD. Now I'm wondering how long a set of studded snow tires would last me and if that would be a suitable replacement for 4WD. They're legal in PA from 1 November to 15 April. I don't offroad at all. All I need is reliable snow transportation during the winter.
 
Yeah, Leroy's is sweet. Idk jack squat about snow driving, would adding a locker in the rear diff help it in the snow?
 
might make it go forward better but not much better and it is way more squirrely on ice. both tires break loose at the same time. been there done that
 
So, fellow Northerners, you guys have any experience with snow tires, studded or not? I've never owned a RWD vehicle before; always FWD or 4x4. I've always had all-season tires because of that. It's not so much the snow I'm worried about. Because they don't plow, the snow packs and freezes so we end up with big ol' ruts made out of ice. Never had an issue with my 4WD. Thoughts about a RWD vehicle with 4 snow tires on it?
 
Normally your biggest issue with 2wd is snow. You have to push the front tires thru it. Good studs help a lot on ice that isn't snow covered.
 
Dunedain15 said:
So, fellow Northerners, you guys have any experience with snow tires, studded or not?
Click to expand...

The question is better put to NorthEasterners / Mid Atlanticers as the winter crud we get around here is different.

2WD is do-able, but you need to know your limits, must keep your head thinking *way* down the road, know when not to try that hill, and know when to stay home. I have done 2WD in a 4K# sedan (A/T), 3,500# diesel sedan (A/T), 3,500# convertible (A/T), and 3K# convertible (M/T) where the only people on the roads were Jeeps / Pickups / SUV's and me (in a car). IIRC, all of the cars had semi-posi rears. Tires were always highway / touring.

ABS really is a must-have when trying to 2WD through crud. If adding weight, try to keep the ratio 50/50 on the axles as this will minimize the slingshot effect if the rear breaks lose (ABS is a huge bonus when this happens).

Trick is to manage the weight, speed, and tire pressure. I kept the fuel tank full, added weight to the rear or rear seat (sand bag(s), extra spare, whatever. . .), and dropped tire pressure to ~20psi. Prior to anybody flaming me about the tire pressure, I knew my limits and drove the vehicle accordingly (ex, max 55 mph with 20 psi) and did not abuse the powertrane until pressures were back up to normal. For the Burb (4x4) I usually go with 30psi due to the extra curb weight.
 
I see people getting good MPG numbers out of 6.5's so I'd go with whatever you can find. I'll know about MPG when my GEP goes in, but that won't be for awhile.

Dunedain15 said:
So, fellow Northerners, you guys have any experience with snow tires, studded or not? I've never owned a RWD vehicle before; always FWD or 4x4. I've always had all-season tires because of that. It's not so much the snow I'm worried about. Because they don't plow, the snow packs and freezes so we end up with big ol' ruts made out of ice. Never had an issue with my 4WD. Thoughts about a RWD vehicle with 4 snow tires on it?
Click to expand...

Good, proper winter tires make all the difference. The post above is spot on.
 
The MPG on 6.2 vs. 6.5 is NA vs. turbo. The Asthma Attack GMx turbo GM threw on the 6.5 engine and god awful passenger side manifold takes 4-5 MPG away. Generally you go from 18 MPG to 14 MPG when going with a GM turbo. The GM turbo is a restriction over 2200 RPM and trying to blow exhaust through it costs the MPG at freeway speed. This is my example from a 1988 4x4 1500 suburban to the 1993/1995 6.5 TD rigs 4x4. Worse when loaded the MPG on a GM turbo hits a gas engine 7 MPG while towing grades. A bigger turbo gets you 10.4 MPG vs the 7MPG!

So this is the sole advice for getting out of it's own way with a HX40II or ATT turbo and decent MPG. A GMx turbo will disappoint in the MPG department so change it out.

NA is just so underpowered it's not worth it.

2WD in snow. It's called MOVING to Arizona!!! Seriously get a known 4x4 for your conditions.
 
Thanks to all for your input. Leroy, I'd love to buy your Burb, but the longer I think about it, the more I'm convinced I need to stick with 4WD. Thanks again for all the offers of help. I'll keep you posted as the process moves forward.
 
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