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6.2 or 6.5?

If its a GM 506 i'd probably lean toward the 660. If its a AMG 506 then its a no brainer get the 506 like Tanner said.
 
It's a high volume oil pump, it moves more oil per minute. Where there is restrictions it will increase pressure, but other that at the point of restriction it simply moves more oil. I have not seen any problems from it in several 6.2's that went into m1009 (k-5 military). Some that were higher mileage it helped the low pressure at idle problem in one. Same guy had 3 of them, in 1 we put oil temp gauge and tried the 2 different pumps- both new. No change in heat, so we blew out that myth. I will never buy a low volume pump again.
 
I'd heard people speculating that when cold the increased resistance might twist or shear the oil pump drive shaft
 
No way. There is the spring relief in he oil pump that would dump way before then. If the oil was that thick from being that cold, it would destroy every bearing in there, so a damaged $20 shaft would be the least of your worries. Take an old pump and pack it with grease hooked up to a drill- it will pump it or cavitation would occur before it would break, which would still mean destoyed bearings in an engine if the oil were that thick. Passages in the pump are WAY bigger than that of bearings. If it can't go through the pump the whole engine is trashed anyways.
 
I had a Toyota pickup back in the early 80s that when it was -40 would start fine but the oil pressure wouldn't come up. I'd start it and run it for a few seconds shut it down and wait for a minute or so, then repeat. I'd have to do that 8-10 times before it would register any oil pressure. It was a brand new truck and I didn't have electricity. Also high rpm engines have been known to have the driveshaft fail and aftermarket heavy duty ones are available. Have you ever been in cold enough weather that straight 10wt oil wouldn't hardly come out of a 2" bung hole on a 55 gallon drum.
 
Ya, been in the cold. That's why I like it warm. I understand That Eureka isn't just a place and a saying, you say it when you get where your going after you left there! Fond memories of good people up there though.
 
I would take both engines. Use the heads of the 6.5 engine or use whatever parts has less cracks.
 
matuva said:
Mm, would like that, but I must choose one, the other goes in another truck...
Click to expand...

:sorry: I wouldn't bet money that you have enough parts between the two of them to make one crack free running engine. Maybe it's best not to "hope" for a single engine from the two of them at all.
 
Only issue I've ever seen with the HO Pump was with a 599 block and running high RPMs under load for 3 miles. High RPMs being 4000 or above which caused a lot of issues that wouldn't apply to the 99.99999% of us who wouldn't run that hard. Doubt you would have any issues with it. The fact that you are not living in an area where cold temperatures are an issue is also a plus
FWIW, my block is a 660 w/ 6.5 heads and a standard oil pump. No blown main seals even making a few runs at High RPMs.
 
Cylinder pressure and rear main seal leak don't relate unless you have blow by. I'd get the HO pump, gapless rings extra oil capacity by moding oil pan, larger filter/s...ext.
 
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