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506 long block for the 96 CCLB.

It has the mounting boss for the center turbo, but no drain hole or oil supply. It was NA motor.
 
The pics of yours look just like mine. The lower end is nice and clean just a little car on on the tops of the pistons.
But the water jackets are pretty gunky.
Do you think if I put one of those drain kings (one do those expandable water weenies ) in the water cross over with a hose and ran it for a while befor I hook up the rad it would wash it out?
 
Leroy I bought after market diamonds off ebay for I think $80. They are not non farious(spell?) and they stuck up just a hair. I have read of some people milling the pocket of the heads but my machine shop installed them and milled the cups flush with the head. Good or bad I don't know.
 
3500GMC said:
Leroy the mill looks pretty clean. How far will you dig into it? Check bearings?
Click to expand...

Im taking it all the way down. I want to find some main studs. Im still on the hunt for those if anyone knows what it needs. Im not going to put a girdle on it so just need a replacement stud.
I have to replace the oil pan also, I'd like to find another one so I dont have to canibalize a good engine.

reddog said:
The pics of yours look just like mine. The lower end is nice and clean just a little car on on the tops of the pistons.
But the water jackets are pretty gunky.
Do you think if I put one of those drain kings (one do those expandable water weenies ) in the water cross over with a hose and ran it for a while befor I hook up the rad it would wash it out?
Click to expand...
Cant hurt. If its on a stand you can turn it upsidedown and maybe dislodge/clean more??

reddog said:
Leroy I bought after market diamonds off ebay for I think $80. They are not non farious(spell?) and they stuck up just a hair. I have read of some people milling the pocket of the heads but my machine shop installed them and milled the cups flush with the head. Good or bad I don't know.
Click to expand...
Thats a good price, Im planing to have mine machined, but it depends on cost.

sctrailrider said:
Leroy, I sent total seal the 2nd ring in the sets that came with the pistons from Kennedy...
Click to expand...

Very cool. Im going to check into that. Retail on a set of Total Seal rings is over $700 now! I'd rather pay $80 + cost of ring set like you and get the same benefit.
 
Found this over at the Place when I googled main studs for a 6.5. Do not know if it is ok to copy and paste from another forum but here goes!

Jsarge said:
Alright guys, after hunting down some information, some measuring, and sitting on the phone with ARP.. i have figured a few things out.

One of those things is that i've decided to leave all of the original main studs in place, except for the outer bolts on the center three mains (the failing points).

I've run into a questionable issue when it comes to those studs. The outer bolt's measure out to be 2 7/8" or 2.875 from the tip to the bottom of the head. Obviously, going to a stud you are going to want a bit more over all length than that for the nut. Here are the two studs that ARP had to offer:

[AU3.420-2LB] $15.84 ea
~ARP2000 material (220KSI) w/ black oxide finish
~3.420” overall length
~1.000” of M12x1.75
~.443 reduced diameter shank
~1.000” of M12x1.25

and

[AU3.965-1LB] $6.79 ea
~8740 material (190KSI) w/ black oxide finish
~3.965” overall length
~1.200” of M12x1.75
~.471” full diameter shank
~1.125” of M12x1.25

As far as the first option goes, it measures out to be perfect. After knocking off the thickness of an ARP washer and nut, it will leave about .165 of stud out of the nut once pulled down. However, i am questioning the fact, that this particular stud has a reduced shank size of .443. Would this cause stress on the main cap or anything else because the shank of the stud is .028 smaller? I figured it is doubtful but i want to ask all questions.

As far as the second stud they had to offer goes, it would actually be useless for an OEM type application because of the length of the threads and the overall length itself. Do the math, the shank of the stud will be slightly sicking out of the main cap .. being useless. However, this would be a perfect stud for someone making an outer girdle ~3/4" thick.

As far as the inner stud's go, i have a direct part number that will work out well: (this stud is probably also available in the ARP2000 material if you ask)

[AU4.795-1L] $10.87 ea
~8740 material (190KSI) w/ black oxide finish
~4.795” overall length
~1.000” of M12x1.75
~.471” full diameter shank
~1.000” of M12x1.25
Click to expand...

I know Heath has them but I suspect they have about a $100+ markup. They are selling head studs for about $100 over what most others ( Summit, Leroy, etc. ) are selling them at. There main studs are almost $400! I like the guys over at Heath ( very happy with what I have purchased there and great tech support, not only on there products but on the 6.5 in general ) and I understand how business works but $100 markup on something that they get for $180 or less is a little excessive in my opinion.

Everything I found when I looked for the info indicated ARP does not offer them as a set and you must buy them one at a time. Would love to see someone put them together as a package...

That is a killer deal on the gapless second ring. I will remember that the next time I need to rering!
 
I could be wrong but IIRC didn't some of the GM 506 blocks have different sized main bolts/holes? Could this be why there is the smaller shanked set of studs?
 
Yeah I forgot the outer bolt holes are 10mm in the newer blocks. I ran across that part number as well. I will see if I can find that one in a bit.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
 
Sorry... I missed Diesel Cash had posted the same info on another thread. Went looking and no luck on the 10mm outer studs. Summit does carry/ sell ARP 10mm studs but I believe they are too long unless you are running a girdle. Do not were or how Heath gets them but they list ARP studs as a set for both 12mm and 10mm outer bolts on caps caps with no girdle. Looked on the ARP and that was pretty useless... I guess the quest goes on. I will keep my eyes open.
 
Chevypoor said:
Sorry... I missed Diesel Cash had posted the same info on another thread. Went looking and no luck on the 10mm outer studs. Summit does carry/ sell ARP 10mm studs but I believe they are too long unless you are running a girdle. Do not were or how Heath gets them but they list ARP studs as a set for both 12mm and 10mm outer bolts on caps caps with no girdle. Looked on the ARP and that was pretty useless... I guess the quest goes on. I will keep my eyes open.
Click to expand...

I saw the DP post. That Jsarge guy is a real good guy. Anyway What I need to do is open up the bottom end and meassure my studs. Once I do that Im pretty sure I'll be able to find what I need.
 
reddog said:
Leroy I bought after market diamonds off ebay for I think $80. They are not non farious(spell?) and they stuck up just a hair. I have read of some people milling the pocket of the heads but my machine shop installed them and milled the cups flush with the head. Good or bad I don't know.
Click to expand...

They actually need to me Non magnetic, means they are made of Inconel, which takes heat better. They are supposed to be raised a bit, so they bite the head gasket, but mine are flush and so far, almost one year at 20 psi, abuse out the wazzoo and ether, they are holding fine.
 
sctrailrider said:
For the rings, I went straight to "Perfect Circle", cost is 10.00$ each ring, you send them your ring, in our case the 2nd ring, and they machine the grove in the ring AND supply the ring that goes in that grove making it true gapless... 1 day turn around....
Click to expand...

Sweet, I'll have to do that.

Burning oil said:
Thats the brand I bought, but paid way more than $10 a hole, you sure about that? They will be shooting themselves in the foot. What brand rings did you send them?
Click to expand...

Makes sense, your not buying a set and most probably don't know that little trick.

If your selling your precups, I'd be interested in them.
 
sctrailrider said:
Leroy, I sent total seal the 2nd ring in the sets that came with the pistons from Kennedy...
Click to expand...



turbovanman said:
Sweet, I'll have to do that.



Makes sense, your not buying a set and most probably don't know that little trick.

If your selling your precups, I'd be interested in them.
Click to expand...

This begs the question, What are you guys using for rings (brand/part #)?
 
Update:
Got the rings on order along with +.010 head gaskets.
Took the block down alittle more, its just oil pan and bottom end to go. I'll be making a run to the powdercoater maybe on Monday.
I checked Total seal, to do the rings is $10 set up and $10 a hole so $90 for the job.
 
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