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2006 Jetta TDI timing belt replacement

dbrannon79

dbrannon79

I'm getting there!
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Hey fellas, time is getting close for me to pull the jetta out of the yard and get the timing belt replaced. My son wants it running and driving reliably LOL. I went on an online searching spree this evening looking for all the procedures, do's and dont's. found some good write-ups on it but I'm not sure about some of the things I am reading....

in the procedures apparently I need to loosen the bolts holding the cam sprocket and possibly remove the sprocket to get the belt on. the cam sprocket is adjustable and I am not looking forward to that part. Here is a pic of the cam sprocket with it's adjustment. there are three bolts that hold it on the cam and a lock pin tool that will lock the cam from moving in the head when removing the belt. in the procedure it states to pull the lock pin and remove the three bolts to get the sprocket off. then with the new belt in place on the crank, slip it on the sprocket and tensioner while slipping the sprocket over the cam at the same time while everything is the right positions before tightening the belt (short form of procedure).

1705552906824.png

I can't seem to find the procedure on how to get the sprocket properly adjusted. wondering if I can not loosen or remove that sprocket leaving it alone. I know some of you have experience with these engines, I'm a little intimidated when it comes to these things fearing I get it right since this thing has to be precise unlike our good old chevys that only go together one way without any "adjustments" like this.

below is a couple of links to the procedure write-up I found and a video. If the links to the other forum write-up isn't aloud, please remove.

EDIT: looks like you have to login to see the write-up. I will look for other write-ups that don't require a login

www.myturbodiesel.com

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www.myturbodiesel.com www.myturbodiesel.com

www.myturbodiesel.com

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www.myturbodiesel.com www.myturbodiesel.com

 
I have been through several belt changing procedures.
All the ones I did the crankshaft timing marks had to be aligned to a certain point and the cam(s) had marks on them too and usually the mark on the cam was straight to the top, then there is no valve spring tension on any lobe to cause the cam to roll.
Then a matter of releasing the tensioner, slipping off the belt, replace front crankshaft seal, on with new belt and tensioner and good to assemble.
If there is a pin through the sprocket to prevent the cam from rolling over, if You remove that sprocket, is the cam going to roll out of alignment ?
What has been suggested. Insert that pin, remove the belt tensioner, slip off the belt, do any other maintenance and back on with the new belt.
I do know a feller over here, dumbass, his brother wants to save a few bucks so has his brother hired to change the timing belt, twin cam Toyota.
Dumbass dont have a book, he pulls the tensioner, slips off the belt, both cams spin.
He comes to my house, hey You need to come over and fix my brothers toyota, pulled the belt and both cams spun.
Asked him, You got a book ? Nope. Told him why would You even think about starting a job without the book ?
No, I will not come over to Your brothers garage to fix your screw up.
That was back when my back was real bad and it was about twenty below zero, no heat in that old shack they called a garage/shop.
 
I did one of those brm timing belts before but also with a new camshaft and cam followers with cam bearing inserts from eBay.The cam lobe wiped out next to the timing belt sending metal grit into the oil.

I do know having the proper vw tools to lock the crank in place is critical.I bought a pretty nice kit from eBay years ago to do one of those.I do remember having to loosen those three bolts on the cam sprocket along with the big bolt in the middle.Theres no keyway on that camshaft.Its just a interference fit and the torque is 70ft/lbs going from memory.

It’s been a very long time since I did one of those but the repair turned out great afterwards.
 
MrMarty51 said:
I have been through several belt changing procedures.
All the ones I did the crankshaft timing marks had to be aligned to a certain point and the cam(s) had marks on them too and usually the mark on the cam was straight to the top, then there is no valve spring tension on any lobe to cause the cam to roll.
Then a matter of releasing the tensioner, slipping off the belt, replace front crankshaft seal, on with new belt and tensioner and good to assemble.
If there is a pin through the sprocket to prevent the cam from rolling over, if You remove that sprocket, is the cam going to roll out of alignment ?
What has been suggested. Insert that pin, remove the belt tensioner, slip off the belt, do any other maintenance and back on with the new belt.
I do know a feller over here, dumbass, his brother wants to save a few bucks so has his brother hired to change the timing belt, twin cam Toyota.
Dumbass dont have a book, he pulls the tensioner, slips off the belt, both cams spin.
He comes to my house, hey You need to come over and fix my brothers toyota, pulled the belt and both cams spun.
Asked him, You got a book ? Nope. Told him why would You even think about starting a job without the book ?
No, I will not come over to Your brothers garage to fix your screw up.
That was back when my back was real bad and it was about twenty below zero, no heat in that old shack they called a garage/shop.
Click to expand...
,
dbrannon79 said:
That is what my fear is, loosening that cam gear and then getting it back where it should be at.
Click to expand...
Aren't you supposed to pin everything before taking anything loose?
 
Definitely read manuals before starting. Some engines don’t need it but many absolutely do. Something I learned when I was a Mac Tools guy going to so many shops and dealerships- never ever use a cheap tool. The majority of guys that bought the highest dollar units are guys who had a cheap one fail them or hold it off time. I seen guys that were normal ok mechanics spend a week correcting the mistake. Ya don’t necessarily need Mac or Snapon, there are a lot of good quality ones. But man o man there is a bunch of junk ones out there.
 
Will L. said:
Definitely read manuals before starting. Some engines don’t need it but many absolutely do. Something I learned when I was a Mac Tools guy going to so many shops and dealerships- never ever use a cheap tool. The majority of guys that bought the highest dollar units are guys who had a cheap one fail them or hold it off time. I seen guys that were normal ok mechanics spend a week correcting the mistake. Ya don’t necessarily need Mac or Snapon, there are a lot of good quality ones. But man o man there is a bunch of junk ones out there.
Click to expand...
Yup. I still have a fair supply of Mac tools hanging out.
Most are over 30 years old and still function as new.
 
RI Chevy Silveradoman said:
Good little engines
Click to expand...
They are indeed but they need an extreme pressure additive mixed with the oil to prevent cam lobe scuffing.I know they were famous for that problem.After I did the camshaft replacement on the 06 brm I dumped a bottle of comp cams additive along with rotella T6 for the customer but nowadays camshaft lobes and roller lifters are failing like crazy on a lot of engines.Its literally ridiculous.
 
dieselolds said:
They are indeed but they need an extreme pressure additive mixed with the oil to prevent cam lobe scuffing.I know they were famous for that problem.After I did the camshaft replacement on the 06 brm I dumped a bottle of comp cams additive along with rotella T6 for the customer but nowadays camshaft lobes and roller lifters are failing like crazy on a lot of engines.Its literally ridiculous.
Click to expand...
I wonder about a bottle or two of ZDDP if that would save them engines ?
 
MrMarty51 said:
I wonder about a bottle or two of ZDDP if that would save them engines ?
Click to expand...
Or Trybodine.

Have you checked the Jetta forums?

Sometimes people sell the tools after they're done.

I rented mine out for the Jeep CRD. I didn't really care about getting money for them. I was mostly concerned about getting the tools back.
 
MrMarty51 said:
I wonder about a bottle or two of ZDDP if that would save them engines ?
Click to expand...
It’s definitely worth a shot.I used to buy half dozen bottles of the comp cams additive every so often but haven’t done so in awhile now.

On that particular brm I did the cam replacement on I had to remove the oil pan and get it cleaned it out.You could see traces of metal grit.It ran great after.The lobes closest to the timing belt are the ones to watch out for.
 
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