2004 Yukon XL 2500 LBZ

[BigDogYJ]

So I’ve had this arb compressor kicking around the garage for a while. Was really running out of options to Mount this thing. While I was changing out the torsion bar cross member link/bushings I noticed under the driver floorboard it appears to be an aluminum heat shield from the driver side cat used on the old 8.1. Its above where the fuel cooler is currently mounted so i pulled the fuel cooler off and removed the heat shield. It’s nearly the perfect size to mount the compressor to. Since it’s aluminum, it’s a bit thin to support the weight of the compressor so i ended up using it as my template and traced to some 5/16 steel plate. Cut it out, drilled the holes , painted it and it fits like a glove. I’ll work on plumbing the air lines another time but for now it’s mounted and wired up so i can use it if needed.



There’s actually plenty of room for the fuel lines and there’s no sign of rubbing but this picture kinda makes it look closer than it is.


I’ve been spending alot of time in the garage. I just keep telling my wife I’m making room in the garage as i keep chugging along through my project list.

Off to a winery today. Back to projects tomorrow.

 

[Will L.]

We just need to get you the hmmwv portals for the extra clearance and gearing- then add the CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) plugged into that monster compressor!

Definitely an on board compressor is nice. Can’t begin to guess the amount of bike tires, football & soccer balls aired up besides the tires. Thats nice tucked up there.

 

[Husker6.5]

Not to mention if you mount a 2-3 gallon air tank you can use air tools out in the boonies in an emergency. Even a ½" impact for short bursts.

 

[jrsavoie]

Not to mention if you mount a 2-3 gallon air tank you can use air tools out in the boonies in an emergency. Even a ½" impact for short bursts.

We used to make tube bumper tanks.

 

[dbrannon79]

for a pickup, the older 06-07 freightliners have long slender round air tanks that mount along the frame rails. those would fit nicely under the bed up between the fenders and the bed hidden! even some of those cheap chinese pancake compressors you can pickup used and in sad shape cheap. rip all the pumps and what not off to just have the tanks and they can be hidden in various places

 

[BigDogYJ]

We just need to get you the hmmwv portals for the extra clearance and gearing- then add the CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) plugged into that monster compressor!

Definitely an on board compressor is nice. Can’t begin to guess the amount of bike tires, football & soccer balls aired up besides the tires. Thats nice tucked up there.

I had a viair compressor on the dually and it definitely got used for a lot of other things more than tires. The only time i really use it for tires is to top off the trailer tires before a trip (easier than trying to find a working air pump at a gas station) and ensuring the rear tires of the truck are up to 80psi. But yes many balls, bikes, air mattresses, etc in our future.

CTIS would be a nice one especially if I used the truck for more overlanding/trails etc. Mostly delegated to on road duties for now. haha

 

[BigDogYJ]

for a pickup, the older 06-07 freightliners have long slender round air tanks that mount along the frame rails. those would fit nicely under the bed up between the fenders and the bed hidden! even some of those cheap chinese pancake compressors you can pickup used and in sad shape cheap. rip all the pumps and what not off to just have the tanks and they can be hidden in various places

just did a quick search those suckers are big. 14" diameter and 65" long!! that would be slick. But I dont have the luxury of the longer wheelbase of a pickup. but I'll find a 2 gal unit that should fit into the bumper. I tried to build a tank/bumper for a buddies jeep years ago and never quite got it 100$ sealed up. Then he hit a rock pretty good and unfortunately cracked it. I think I got enough room in the rear bumper to stuff something about 2 gal's or so.

 

[jrsavoie]

just did a quick search those suckers are big. 14" diameter and 65" long!! that would be slick. But I dont have the luxury of the longer wheelbase of a pickup. but I'll find a 2 gal unit that should fit into the bumper. I tried to build a tank/bumper for a buddies jeep years ago and never quite got it 100$ sealed up. Then he hit a rock pretty good and unfortunately cracked it. I think I got enough room in the rear bumper to stuff something about 2 gal's or so.

Schedule 160 with the domed end caps

 

[BigDogYJ]

Had a rattle in the front passenger door that I’ve been trying to track down. It seems to come and go and never happens when I’m in the passenger seat, go figure. Anyways took off the door panel today and shocked that there was no moisture barrier between the panel and the door. The back of the panel was pretty wet, we just got 6.5” of rain the past two days (thats alot for us here in cali). So now I'm going back in my head thinking of when that panel was last taken off. It must have been when I had the window replaced or the amp steps installed which was at least 4 years ago... I ordered a replacement but thats gonna take week or more to show up and we'll be back home by then. So I shipped it home and made a temporary makeshift moisture barrier until then.



Better than nothing. As for the rattle I believe it was the plastic clips on the wiring harness that was rattling in the holes. I added some light density foam around the clips so hopefully that will keep them quiet.

 

[dbrannon79]

try using some of that peal and stick sound deadening material. using that stuff on the inside of the outer door skin and where the moisture barrier goes will make for a very quiet door! sealing all the holes so when air that blows in to the door cavity doesn't go into the panel area

for me, the smallest air leak while on the road annoys the crap out of me!!

 

[BigDogYJ]

try using some of that peal and stick sound deadening material. using that stuff on the inside of the outer door skin and where the moisture barrier goes will make for a very quiet door! sealing all the holes so when air that blows in to the door cavity doesn't go into the panel area

for me, the smallest air leak while on the road annoys the crap out of me!!

Good idea.
I actually lined the inside of the door skins and floor with Noico. Basically a butyl deadening adhesive lined mat. And insulated the back side of the door panels with a thin ensolite foam. Rick McCallum with Raam Audio specialized in a lot of sound deadening projects years back but seems to have retired/gone out of business so I had to source different materials. Still much better than stock. I also used a Dynapad on the front floor/firewall to add some additional insulation from the noise from the diesel vs gas. I have some pics here in this thread back earlier on: https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/2004-yukon-xl-2500-lbz.47009/post-551423. Check towards the end of that post.

 

[dbrannon79]

Good idea.
I actually lined the inside of the door skins and floor with Noico. Basically a butyl deadening adhesive lined mat. And insulated the back side of the door panels with a thin ensolite foam. Rick McCallum with Raam Audio specialized in a lot of sound deadening projects years back but seems to have retired/gone out of business so I had to source different materials. Still much better than stock. I also used a Dynapad on the front floor/firewall to add some additional insulation from the noise from the diesel vs gas. I have some pics here in this thread back earlier on: https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/2004-yukon-xl-2500-lbz.47009/post-551423. Check towards the end of that post.

something must have gone goofy with the truck stop site. opening that thread shows me this for pics!

 

[BigDogYJ]

interesting... Not sure why thats not working.
See if this works:





This just shows the front but I followed this all the way to the back liftgate.

Found one of the rear cargo area progress:

 

[dbrannon79]

Nice. I plan to do this sometime in the future on my truck. did you pull out the dash and do all the firewall? how much of a difference did this make on hearing the engine or road noise?

 

[BigDogYJ]

Nice. I plan to do this sometime in the future on my truck. did you pull out the dash and do all the firewall? how much of a difference did this make on hearing the engine or road noise?

I did not go as far as pulling the dash off, but I pushed the materials as high up as I could get it along the bottom of the dash. I figured I'd save that project for when/if the heater core needed to be replaced. (I did one in my Dad's 1500 and you literally remove the dash from the firewall to get to the HVAC box. IF I end up having to do that to this one, then I'll take the opportunity to install the same materials along the firewall all the way up to the windshield at that time. I also have not done the roof yet. was waiting for an excuse to pull the headliner down.

 

[dbrannon79]

when I get around to doing this to my truck I want to gut the cab out and get it all done including the roof. I was wondering how well this stuff will adhear to the roof with the texas summer heat. wondering if the sun beaming down on the top would make the glue loosen allowing the material to fall onto the headliner.

it's gonna be a big project for me since I have a un-cracked dash and a un-cracked HVAC box sitting in the garage I plan to install at the same time, along with attempting to pull and re cover the headliner (hoping I can get it in and out in one piece - crew cab) all at the same time. That project has been put on a long hold until I can get this VW Jetta diesel out of the back driveway! I pulled the transmission out of it thinking the flywheel was broken. turns out the input splines on the trans are all gone. need to find another tranny for it. maybe after the first of the new year I'll have the extra funds and time to get one and get it out of the way!!

 

[Husker6.5]

@dbrannon79 Refresh my memory. Is that Jetta an automatic or stick shift?

 

[dbrannon79]

it's a automatic, 6 speed DSG with the dual mass flywheel. it's put together almost like a stick shift where the flywheel bolts to the crank and has center splines like a clutch does on a manual. the splines apparently let go and ground up the flywheel and wore down the input shaft on the tranny pretty bad.

from what I have researched online, the dual mass flywheels are only good for 100k and this car has over 200k on it. not sure if the PO before us ever replaced it.

 

[dbrannon79]

not to hijack BigDogYJ's thread, I though I had posted some picks on my thread, but if I cam remember as soon as I get home from work, I will take some of the tranny and flywheel and post them on the thread I have running or just create a new one

 

[Husker6.5]

The "fix" for the weak automatics behind the diesels, according to many VW experts, is to forget using an automatic entirely and going with the manual with a heavy-duty aftermarket clutch/flywheel assembly. If the diesel doesn't take off the input splines, it turns the auto's innards into chewed up mush by 100K. The manual's gears can handle the torque the slushbox's internals can't.