2002 Chevy 2500 6.0L 4x4 Overheating When Snowplowing

[RayMich]

I recently purchased from the original owner a 2002 Chevy Silverado 2500 4x4 with the 6.0L gas engine equipped with a 2003 BOSS 8'2" V-Plow to help my son with his business.

NOTE: This truck did not come equipped with the VYU Snow Plow Prep Package which would've included among other things a "high flow front bumper".

This truck currently has 138K on it and has been well maintained by the original owner and so far everything in the truck and plow has worked perfectly.

However, we've started having problems with the truck overheating when driven on the highway over 50 MPH while carrying the plow. But even worse, it is now overheating while plowing as well.

My son checked to see if we could get a larger radiator for this truck and was told at AutoZone that they make only one size radiator for this truck. I suppose that might be the case for a gas engine, but I wonder about a diesel radiator. They told him to install an electric fan. But I haven't found an electric fan kit that will fit in front of the radiator.

I don't want to just eliminate the engine driven fan and replace it with an electric fan, because I have not found anything that by itself would really work better than the engine driven fan. But if I could ADD an auxiliary electric fan then I may be more interested.

I would like not to have to spend an arm and a leg fixing this overheating problem if at all possible.

My questions are:

Do they make a larger radiator for the Duramax Diesel engine? If so, how difficult would it be to drop a diesel radiator into this 2002 Silverado with a 6.0L gas engine? Do I need different radiator supports, brackets and hoses?

What is the best way to test to see if the fan clutch has failed?

Is there a larger HD fan and clutch assembly that I can install that would solve my problem?

Thanks for the help.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

For the 6.0L I would think the stock fan clutch would do. If it is origanal, then it is a good idea to change it out as they should be done around 70-100K miles as the clutch in them wears over time. Also I have found on the LS engines if teh heater core is slightly clogged they will overheat. The T-stat in the water pump inline of the lower hose. If it doesn't get a good return flow from the heater core it will overheat as the T-stat basically uses the heater return flow to go past teh T-stat for it to open. I had one do this to me awhile back where it would get up to 230 or so idling, flushed the heater core and it held 185 again. If it was mine I would start with the basic stuff first. Pull the radiator out and wash it out and thoroughly clean all of the bugs and such out of it and the condenser, replace the water inlet housing on teh water pump as the T-stat is part of the housing, put a new HD fan clutch in it, back flush the heater core out EXTREMELY well, and refill it with a mix of 50/50 distilled water and a good DEX-cool anti-freeze. Before you go looking for a bigger radiator, make sure what you have is working properly first. No reason to spend big money on reinventing the wheel when all it needs is some maintence. Also make sure your coolant temp sensor is working and reading properly. A bad CTS can cause teh guage to read hot when teh engine is actually running where it should be. I normally swap them out anytime they are in question as they aren't that expensive, but ONLY use a GM or AC DELCO part.

 

[RayMich]

For the 6.0L I would think the stock fan clutch would do. If it is origanal, then it is a good idea to change it out as they should be done around 70-100K miles as the clutch in them wears over time. Also I have found on the LS engines if teh heater core is slightly clogged they will overheat. The T-stat in the water pump inline of the lower hose. If it doesn't get a good return flow from the heater core it will overheat as the T-stat basically uses the heater return flow to go past teh T-stat for it to open. I had one do this to me awhile back where it would get up to 230 or so idling, flushed the heater core and it held 185 again. If it was mine I would start with the basic stuff first. Pull the radiator out and wash it out and thoroughly clean all of the bugs and such out of it and the condenser, replace the water inlet housing on teh water pump as the T-stat is part of the housing, put a new HD fan clutch in it, back flush the heater core out EXTREMELY well, and refill it with a mix of 50/50 distilled water and a good DEX-cool anti-freeze. Before you go looking for a bigger radiator, make sure what you have is working properly first. No reason to spend big money on reinventing the wheel when all it needs is some maintence. Also make sure your coolant temp sensor is working and reading properly. A bad CTS can cause teh guage to read hot when teh engine is actually running where it should be. I normally swap them out anytime they are in question as they aren't that expensive, but ONLY use a GM or AC DELCO part.

You make very good points.

I had forgotten about the havoc that bugs can create plugging the core. I haven't had the problem with my Duramax, because I use a bug screen in the summer time whenever I've had to drive down south during LoveBug season.

I'll try to check it out tomorrow and see if we can get this thing fixed. A new fan clutch sounds like a good idea anyway.

Thank you.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

I know it sounds crazy, but backflush teh heater core out to be safe. At low RPM's the LS engines NEED flow from the heater return to make the T-stat work.

 

[ak diesel driver]

if you have time let it sit overnight with vinegar in the heater core and then flush it again

 

[WarWagon]

Fan clutches loose 200 RPM per year and are done at 5 years. They still spin the fan after 5 years but not as fast. This sort of working is why lots of people overlook them.

Radiator cap is also suspect from age - test it.

You should also check and make sure the air is purged out of the engine. The LS2 has small hoses on the corners of the cylinder heads that went to the heater hoses. Great place to purge air or look for similar on the LS engine. Air lock will warm them up in 2 blocks.

 

[tanman_2006]

I had the radiator out of our 01 8.1L CC dually last week (cracked DS tank) looked the same size as our 03 6.0L radiator.

I agree with engine driven fans on a diesel but there are some good dual fan set ups for LS equiped trucks.

 

[jrkrace]

I would check with the GM parts counter and get an updated fan clutch. This has happened to me on my 2004 and it ended up being a TSB and they replaced the fan clutch. No more problems.

 

[RayMich]

All this winter, we've only had TWO days where we got enough snow to require plowing. Just my luck. I go through the expense of getting another truck and then it sits on the driveway with temperatures in the low 40's. Well, we finally got some snow yesterday.

Went to plow my son's driveway first and could only take ONE swipe before the engine overheated. Driving it around the block cooled it some, but the minute the truck stopped moving the Temp gauge would approach 260°F and the warning light would come on.

I finally was able to limp it home by driving @ 40 mph with the plow almost on the ground so I could get some air flow to the radiator and the heater on FULL HOT, blower on high and the windows open so we could stand the heat. Got it nosed into the garage and tried to turn the fan and it was very loose and sounded like something was grinding. Obviously on Sundays no GM dealers are open, so I went to AutoZone and got one of their HD fan clutches, with a "limited lifetime warranty" whatever that means.

What a pain the rear-end to change this freakin' fan clutch. The GM service manual calls for a special tool to loosen the clutch from the W/P pulley and I didn't have such a tool; neither did AutoZone. I finally got the damned thing loose by inserting a couple of Allen wrenches in two of the holes on the pulley and used a large screwdriver to prevent the pulley from turning and while pounding with a hammer on a large crescent wrench was able to get it loose. I was finally able to replace the fan clutch after dorking with it for over an hour and replaced both belts while we were at it.

WOW! What a difference! - The new fan clutch is working perfectly. At no time during 15 hours of plowing did the temperature gauge ever go above 180°F

Unfortunately, while driving to our last two clients at 3 am, we had a LF tire blowout when we drove over some RR tracks. Not only did we not have a spare tire with us, but also no lug wrench. The guy I bought the truck from still owes me a spare tire & wheel. I was finally able to get a ride home and got the 2006 Duramax, loaded a spare tire, a floor jack and star lug wrench and drove back to the truck. We finally replaced the failed tire (Michelin) and continued to the final two jobs.

I finally got home at 5 am with every bone and joint in my body aching. I sure hope the rest of the winter is a little kinder to us.

I did get a new themostat and gooseneck assembly and will replace it and flush the cooling system as soon as we get some warm weather again.

I want to thank everyone who posted on this thread, your advice helped immensely. you guys are super!

 

[WarWagon]

FWIW use an air chisel to loosen the fan clutch nut with the belt on. Use it to drive the nut loose. It will be loose in 30 seconds. Antiseize or grease on the threads.

At least it worked enough to write off on taxes now...

 

[Michaeljp86]

Ive noticed on obd2 gms the radiators fill up with thick nasty sludge, I think it has something to do with the dexcool. I put in green antifreeze in all my stuff and never had this issue.

 

[woodchuck2]

There was a TSB for a better clutch fan. IMO i would look into dual electric fans, if you look under the hood of the newer trucks you will see nothing but electric fans. IMO electric fans are the way to go, less strain on the water pump, more HP, better gas/fuel mileage and they will cool the engine better with the blade up. I am going to electric fans on the D-Max once mine is paid off.

 

[Grendahl]

There was a TSB for a better clutch fan. IMO i would look into dual electric fans, if you look under the hood of the newer trucks you will see nothing but electric fans. IMO electric fans are the way to go, less strain on the water pump, more HP, better gas/fuel mileage and they will cool the engine better with the blade up. I am going to electric fans on the D-Max once mine is paid off.

I don't think you will find an electric fan setup that will keep a Dmax cool if you tow heavy. The mechanical fan will move way more air than any electric fan setup that was available when I was looking into the conversion.