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1999 Chevrolet Suburban Wheel Bearing Issues

mangus580

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Location
Western NY
Hey guys - long time no talk...

I am posting this here because I feel it pertains more to the older chassis and suspect I will get a better answer about it.

My wife's 99 burb, we have been through no less than 8 front passenger wheel bearings in the last 4 years. I replaced the first one myself (from Advance Auto) and have had the rest done by a local shop that I have used and generally trust. It seems on average we get about 6 months/20k miles before they fail. They usually fail catastrophically. (twice the wheel has 'fallen off' and one time it snapped the end right off the CV shaft).

We have tried several different bearing manufactures at this point. We have also tried grounding the hub (not sure how he did that) as well as disconnecting the ABS sensor.

We just had another fail, and I cant keep tossing $$ at this problem. I am out of ideas. What could be causing this bearing to fail so much?

Help!!


Mike
 
Last edited by a moderator:
IIRC you have to make sure the axle nut torque puts a preload on the bearing. When you tighten the nut can you still move the axle in/out? if yes it might be the problem. Have you ever put shafts in it?
 
I know the guy at the shop has done the preload 2 different ways... One with it jacked up, one with it on the ground.

The shaft has been replaced at least twice. once because it snapped, another because when the bearing failed it 'punched' all the threads off the end.

For what its worth... I replaced the drivers side bearing before I did any of the passenger side, and its still going strong.

The guy at the shop has talked to at least 2 different bearing rep's about the problem too....


Would it be possible the knuckle casting the bearing bolts to could be bad?


I should also note... most of these (if not all) have come with a new abs sensor installed - ruling out poor installation of that and the oring letting road slop in.
 
Just to confirm (although it doughtful) when you/they torque the nut are they checking to see that the nut has nut just bottomed out on the shoulder? If it did that there will be no preload. After you tighten the nut use a prybar to see if the splined section can be moved in/out of the hub. If it will then its probably the problem. Most pepole would never even check that and assume its good to go. I know I wouldint check that unless I had cause to, witch you do now.

Possible bad knuckle have you ever curbed it? Seems like allignment shop could check it??
 
Being that I replaced the first one - I would have never checked such a thing. There was no 'issue' at that point.

The thing has 220k miles on it.... maybe 15k of those I put on, so I have no idea if its been 'curbed'.

Where might one locate a knuckle? I would be weary of a junkyard one, if they are that easy to mess up....
 
Being that I replaced the first one - I would have never checked such a thing. There was no 'issue' at that point.

The thing has 220k miles on it.... maybe 15k of those I put on, so I have no idea if its been 'curbed'.

Where might one locate a knuckle? I would be weary of a junkyard one, if they are that easy to mess up....

I have knuckles. Even knuckles with old but good bearings. Send me a PM.
 
Get it fixed back up yet?

Have it lined up to go to a shop on Monday. The last 2 times, the bearing was replaced with a Timken. This time it will still get a Timken, but its going to be a different installer.

Thinking about it; the wheel spins freely (no obvious binding) upon install. Tires are wearing evenly, it doesnt pull, etc. Cant see how there could be anything physically wrong causing it to fail.

I did agree with my original mechanic, that I will take it for an alignment upon install of the new bearing just to verify it...
 
I should mention that this has forced me to break out the 'semi-retired' 95 and put some miles on it. Showing me I need to get some work done on that... Havent really driven it since buying the Jetta TDI 2.5 years ago.
 
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