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1995 SLE 4x4

Pictures look good maybe a little high on the price for a 95 even if it is a Diesel not enough info, need smiles & mods to make a better assessment, why is it being sold you know the "personality"/history behind the vehicle.
 
Turbine Doc said:
Pictures look good maybe a little high on the price for a 95 even if it is a Diesel not enough info, need smiles & mods to make a better assessment, why is it being sold you know the "personality"/history behind the vehicle.
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I tried calling last week, left a message to get the mileage....

Crankme69 said:
Yup nice looking truck but too much money IMO

Here is one I have been watching & waiting for the price to drop on...
http://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/cto/1798701531.html
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I agree, i was thinking more like 5,000 instead would be more fair.

chickenhunterbob said:
depends on the mileage, might be a steal...but depends
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chefmike said:
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/wat/cto/1802350177.html

not sure if it is 4wd, but better price
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looks 2wd, decent deal imo, i like the fact its got a long bed though.
 
jcool said:
yes its very important. please explain what you mean about the difference between the engines.
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L56 is the "lo po" engine and has emmisions equipment, factory rating somewhere around 180 hp and 360 lbft torque.

L65 is the "Hi po" engine and no emissions (may have a catalytic converter, but so would the L56), factory rating 215 HP and 440 lbft torque (comes on around 200 rpm lower also).

Keep in mind, these are factory ratings when new at the crank....and they're just factory numbers I pulled off the net too.

The 6 bolt 3/4 ton 88-98 trucks are, essentially, a half ton with heavier rear springs and the 14 bolt rear axle/larger than 1/2 ton rear brakes.


:)
 
great white said:
L56 is the "lo po" engine and has emmisions equipment, factory rating somewhere around 180 hp and 360 lbft torque.

L65 is the "Hi po" engine and no emissions (may have a catalytic converter, but so would the L56), factory rating 215 HP and 440 lbft torque (comes on around 200 rpm lower also).

Keep in mind, these are factory ratings when new at the crank....and they're just factory numbers I pulled off the net too.

The 6 bolt 3/4 ton 88-98 trucks are, essentially, a half ton with heavier rear springs and the 14 bolt rear axle/larger than 1/2 ton rear brakes.


:)
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Its amazing the vast knowledge the internet gives us access to!

so how can i tell L56 from the L65? other than emissions is there anything different internally or is it just programming? thankyou for your help.
 
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The L56 can essentially easily be made into an L65 though, by getting the L65 intake with no EGR and a performance PCM. Only difference then would be the smaller mouths on the precups in the heads, but thats not real bad. L56 visibly has the EGR on top of the intake.

Just be very aware that you had a Dmax before and this GM diesel is not a Dmax, not even closely resembling a DMax, completely different fueling system, Indirect Injection, PCM capabilities, and potential power. These require modifications to be reliable, and other modifications to be powerful.

Good to know that many places dont inspect pre-97 diesels for emissions.
 
buddy said:
The L56 can essentially easily be made into an L65 though, by getting the L65 intake with no EGR and a performance PCM. Only difference then would be the smaller mouths on the precups in the heads, but thats not real bad. L56 visibly has the EGR on top of the intake.

Just be very aware that you had a Dmax before and this GM diesel is not a Dmax, not even closely resembling a DMax, completely different fueling system, Indirect Injection, PCM capabilities, and potential power. These require modifications to be reliable, and other modifications to be powerful.

Good to know that many places dont inspect pre-97 diesels for emissions.
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unfortunately I do know the capability of the dmax and the 6.5 is far less powerful but I am fine with that. I have read a lot of turbine doc's threads and a few others on power adders and reliability components. The most I would want would compare to a stock LB7, I thought that was plenty of power even before all the mods I did. when did the L65 come out? would it be cost effective to modify a L56. My main goals are fuel economy and reliability.
 
jcool said:
Its amazing the vast knowledge the internet gives us access to!

so how can i tell L56 from the L65? other than emissions is there anything different internally or is it just programming? thankyou for your help.
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EGR valve on the top of the intake and RPO code in the glove box for and L56.

Or, eight digit in the vin will be an "F" for L65 and an "S" for an L56....if there's no egr, it doesn't necessarily man it's an L65. Someone may have swapped out the intake and still be running on the L56 ECM....vin and RPO is the best way to tell.
 
great white said:
EGR valve on the top of the intake and RPO code in the glove box for and L56.

Or, eight digit in the vin will be an "F" for L65 and an "S" for an L56....if there's no egr, it doesn't necessarily man it's an L65. Someone may have swapped out the intake and still be running on the L56 ECM....vin and RPO is the best way to tell.
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good to know. What do you feel a fair price is for the truck?
 
Need to know what current mods are on it when you buy it to estimate how much it will cost to get to DMax stock power.

It doesnt cost much to change out the upper and lower intake, and you'll want an aftermaket PCM anyway, so no big deal getting the "S VIN" "L56 RPO" "Light Duty" truck, and it will probably net you more efficiency if you dont need the tow rating.
 
jcool said:
good to know. What do you feel a fair price is for the truck?
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Hard to say, vehicle prices are dependent on selling area as much as condition and mileage. Best thing to do is shop the want adds for similar vehicles and see what the average price is for "mint" and "distressed" ones. Then, decide what you think it is worth and stick to that price. Ultimately, the vehicle will sell for what your local market will support. Unless you get lucky and catch someone in need of money or just have to get rid of their truck quickly.

Around here, they'd ask anywhere from 7-9000 for that truck. You may get lucky and find one for around 5500-6000.

Prices are stupid here though, bunch of old farts who can't seem to grasp the concept of depreciation and will hold on to it until they get what they want or they finally die...

I had my wife haggle with the PO of my 98 and she got him from 7500 to 5000.


She's making all my deals from now on!

:thumbsup:
 
buddy said:
Need to know what current mods are on it when you buy it to estimate how much it will cost to get to DMax stock power.

It doesnt cost much to change out the upper and lower intake, and you'll want an aftermaket PCM anyway, so no big deal getting the "S VIN" "L56 RPO" "Light Duty" truck, and it will probably net you more efficiency if you dont need the tow rating.
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I am going to call him again this weekend to get some specs on the truck.

great white said:
Hard to say, vehicle prices are dependent on selling area as much as condition and mileage. Best thing to do is shop the want adds for similar vehicles and see what the average price is for mint and distressed ones. Then, decide what you think it is worth and stick to that price.

Around here, they'd ask anywhere from 7-9000 for that truck. You may get lucky and find one for around 5500-6000.

Prices are stupid here though, bunch of old farts who can't seem to grasp the concept of depreciation and will hold on to it until they get what they want of they die...

I had my wife haggle with the PO of my 98 and she got him from 7500 to 5000.
She's making all my deals from now on....:thumbsup:
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thats a good deal, I really dont feel that I should pay but about 5k for this truck but well see after I get the details
 
jcool said:
thats a good deal, I really dont feel that I should pay but about 5k for this truck but well see after I get the details
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I had her deal on it because she didn't want it at all and I wanted it so much I couldn't be objective anymore.

She tossed out 5 grand expecting him to turn us down flat and we'd be on our way.

He countered with 6500 and I was ready to jump out and shake his hand!

My wife stuck to 5000 grand (not a penny more) and to her surprise, he accepted. My wife was pissed, but had to do the deal because that's what she offered!

I was one happy pappy................:smile5:

She still hates the truck by the way, not a diesel fan. Too loud for her. I'm pricing out sound deadening solutions as we speak!

I guess the key to getting the deal you want is you have to be prepared to absolutely walk away if you don't get it.....there's always another truck waiting around the corner...

Also, find out what the black book is one the truck for your area and it's condition. There's lots of places online where you can get that info. then compare that to what the asking price is in the adds in your area.
 
I paid $5K for my 94 C1500 3 years ago in great condition, no rust, perfect interior, 75K miles, etc...but I knew the people and knew they didnt need it anymore since the husband was disabled on the flight line

It already had a 50 gallon auxiliary fuel tank/tool box, the rail gaurds, and Banks gauges, and Banks exhaust (which wasnt very good though).
 
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