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1995 Silverado door panels/speakers

brokenmotor

brokenmotor

I don't know diesel
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You guys know these trucks....I do not have a clue how to remove the speakers from the front doors of my 1995 Silverado. Can somebody show me a step by step how to. Also, which battery should I hook my amps up to?

Thank you.
 
Take the panel off, then the should unbolt. I guess I would hook to the one closest to the alternator but I still have my old blown speakers with stock radio ;)
 
Sorry I dont have any pictures but if you take your time it is really an easy job.
1. Take the trim ring off around the door handle, be careful the little tabs can break off
2. Take off the door controls panel, and unhook the all the wires
3. Remove the little interior light
4. Take out the the 2 (7mm??) screws in the arm pad
5. Use a clip removal tool to loosen the the plastic clips in the door (there are a bunch)
6. Lift out and up on the door panel to unhook from the top of the door
7. Sit back and relax with a cold brewski!
 
No prob

I did forget one thing though, try to make sure you do this in a heated garage, they chances are 200 times greater that you will break something if you do it out in the cold.
 
My truck is a 97 so I believe the panels are a little different, but the basics should be the same. You'll need a door panel fastener removal tool and a bunch of new fasteners (retainers) as the old ones suffer a high casualty rate with removal. They are nylon and seem to made for one time use. Lordco should have the right fasteners and the tool. Wrap some electrical tape around the working end of the tool if you are worried about the paint on the door. Roll the window down if you are disconnecting the battery. You will most likely have to remove the inside door handle bezel. Slide the tool between the panel and the door, pry it out a bit and then work it along until you find the fasteners position. At this point you slide the notch of the tool around the fastener (did I mention that the tool is basically a mini hybrid screwdriver/prybar?) and pry the panel away from the door. The fastener will pop out. Do this again until you have done all the fasteners. Start with the bottom of the door and work your way up the sides, both front and back. There should be about 8 fasteners, give or take a couple. All the fasteners are along the edge of the front and back sides and the bottom of the panel. There should also be a screw/bolt or two in the handle that you pull the door closed with. At this point the panel will be hanging away from the door except for the top trim against the window, (which is actually rolled down into the door). You then push the top of the panel out through the window frame an inch or so and it comes "unhooked" along the inside weather stripping and can be removed.
R&Ring the speaker is straight forward at this point.
Reinstalling the panel is obviously the opposite, the only difference being that after replacing any fasteners with new ones, you guide the fasteners into the holes in the door and push or even hammer them in with your hand. Start with the top fasteners and work your way down to the bottom of the door. Don't forget the screws in the pull handle.
I would suggest you go to the LMCtruck web catalog and look at the Door Components schematics. They dont show the actual panel but do show the construction of the door and the handle bezels with the tabs that secure them. This will give a better idea of how to release them.
G'luck!

Edit: Mattthebrats' description is excellent and certainly simpler! Definitely don't do this outside!
 
Resurrection

I'm going to resurrect this old thread because I'm finally getting to this on my '95. I had hoped to pop the door panel off this afternoon, replace the speaker and be done. 1 1/2 hr into it, I still can't figure out how to remove the metal inner skin that appears to hold the window regulator in. The speaker is attached to this skin from the inside. There were about a dozen tiny screws holding the outer "ring" of this skin in place and one larger one. Shining a light down inside, it seems like there is a clip of some sort holding the lower portion of this in place. It's stout. When I try to move it, the whole truck moves. Does anyone have any advice?

Second, what speakers are recommended for this? I want the easiest thing I can install, aside from factory and I'll likely do both doors once I have this figured out.
 
Thanks Matt.:thumbsup: I was pretty sure I read something you had on this a while back, but couldn't find it. I your post #5, that's the part I can't get out. I'll try working on it again tomorrow when it's daylight and I have better lighting in the garage.

Push this panel toward the hinges, then pull it back toward the jamb, right? Is there something on the bottom of this in the center that has to release also, or is that part of what releases in this motion?
 
It has been probably 5 years since I did my speakers, but I don't remember needing to get that inner panel off. I do recall that I used Crutchfield for replacements and that getting the OEM size at the time was an issue so I ordered an adapting ring for them when I sourced the speakers. They actually have/had a pretty good guide for getting replacement speakers with all of the right stuff to get them in with a minimum of fuss. I cannot recall exactly what brand I went with, but they will take everything the stock head unit can throw at them on the very rare occasion that I feel compelled to do that anymore...

I'll poke around the glovebox and see if I kept the paperwork tomorrow when I go to work and see if I have the particulars.
 
I must be looking at something wrong, then. Can you tell from this image? Where it appears there are mount holes for screws, there are no screws. On the left and lower portion of the speaker, you see two tabs that appear to slip into slots for mounting and the wired portion toward the top right seems to be holding the thing onto the metal ring. Does this look familiar?
 

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The speakers don't have screws holding them, they have a metal clip and a plastic hook. You basicly just pull on them at the clip and then swing them away from the door to get them out. Of the 4 I've done, 3 came out easy, the fourth didn't want to come out and I ended up having to pry on it. Use some self tapping screws to affix your new speakers. Be mindful of the mounting depth of the new speakers as some will interfere with window travel.

Bill
 
when I mounted my replacement speakers I attached them to the door panel itself instead of the door.

Then when panel installed they sit right inside the cutout. It sure dressed up the interior.
 
SnowDrift said:
....Does this look familiar?
Click to expand...

Not really. But I am not sure what I had for dinner last night, so something I did 5 years ago, well...):h

To compensate, I keep everything. I found my paperwork, including install instructions from 2005. Apparently, I got 5 1/4" Blaupunkt speakers with spacer ring to make up for the smaller diameter and deeper depth than OEMs. TSc540 model to be specific.

According to the install instructions I got for '95 GM trucks (and apparently worked for me):

#7) To release speaker, pry out spring tab at top of speaker. Fold speaker down to release lower tabs. Remove and disconnect speaker.

Good luck. Give me a call if you want. Not sure I can be much more help, but I'll listen to you vent....:smile5:

BTW, got to watch a machine like the one you showed us work right outside my window the last 2 weeks. Pretty impressive to watch a 3 story building disappear back into the hole it came out of...
 
minisub said:
Not really. But I am not sure what I had for dinner last night, so something I did 5 years ago, well...):h

To compensate, I keep everything. I found my paperwork, including install instructions from 2005. Apparently, I got 5 1/4" Blaupunkt speakers with spacer ring to make up for the smaller diameter and deeper depth than OEMs. TSc540 model to be specific.

According to the install instructions I got for '95 GM trucks (and apparently worked for me):

#7) To release speaker, pry out spring tab at top of speaker. Fold speaker down to release lower tabs. Remove and disconnect speaker.

Good luck. Give me a call if you want. Not sure I can be much more help, but I'll listen to you vent....:smile5:

BTW, got to watch a machine like the one you showed us work right outside my window the last 2 weeks. Pretty impressive to watch a 3 story building disappear back into the hole it came out of...
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, my friend! I'll give this a try next time I make it out in the garage. Sometimes I think I have too many irons in the fire:smile5: I may give you a call. I'll look those speakers up. I remembered you telling me about them quite some time ago, as soon as I read they were Blaupunkt.

Glad you got to see that in action, by the way. Kind of neat how it all works out. We put two machines in Pittsburgh a couple years ago in a well known asphalt making facility. With our machine, they won the highest national award given in the USA for the asphalt industry.
 
How timely!

If the UPS man is on the ball I should have my 6.5 Alpine Type-X Pro drivers to put in today.

I removed the inner panel to apply sound deadener, but it is a huge PITA otherwise. Leave it alone if you want normal sound :)

FWIW the rear doors are much easier.

If you are replacing front speakers be sure to bump those mylar tweeters in the front. I have found that most 25mm (1') tweeters fit in nicely with a little silicone to "glue" them in.

... Next week I hope to get the Burb completely pimped out stereo wise. What a PITA!!! Not user friendly to install this stuff at all in a CK.
 
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KFC1662/Kenwood-KFC-1662S.html?tp=95&tab=review&rvm=ShowAllt

I was thinking about these Kenwood 3-ways

After clearing all the dust and crud away, I saw that it was as simple as the metal clip and folding the speaker down. Boy, I feel like a goofball! Thanks for the help, though, guys. Minisub, I almost called you last night when I got this out, but it was 10:30, so I decided it was a little too late:D

Does anyone have tips on removing the overhead panel over the rear window to access the rear speakers? I've done 3 of these in the past and have always broken the tabs off the piece to hold it tight to the ceiling. I ended up putting tiny black screws in my last truck to keep that from flopping down. Hopefully someone here has a better suggestion.
 
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